From Luxury to Reality

Had Kathy felt better we could have taken a free shuttle and then walked four blocks to the train station. Instead it cost 20 Euro for the cab to the train station Although she is better this morning she clearly doesn't feel up to to great a challenge. When we arrived at the station we learned that we would need a train that says Roma T (Rome is the terminus). AND in addition we needed one that doesn't require Kathy to walk any stairs. These train stations require you to climb down about 40 stairs then once underground you choose the track you need and climb the 30-40 stairs back up to your platform.

There were several trains that showed Roma T -- but all were on platforms that required the stair climbing feat. I sought out a man who was wearing a police (I assume it was police) uniform. I asked if he spoke any English to which he indicated a little. I was able to convey what we needed (a lift) by gesturing to Kathy --- and he said no lift -- I pointed to the tracks indicating perhaps a crossing --- no crossing. So we will need to wait for about 90 minutes to catch a train that will use track one.

What struck me was his manner -- there was no joy in Civitiavechia today for this fellow. What a contrast from the people who were eager to help you on the ship. As I watched several trains come and go --- it was clear to me that the step onto the train would be a challenge for her today. I once again sought out the officer. I wanted to see if perhaps we could manage a step stool for her to ease her step onto the train. As I approached him --- before I said anything --he said in his most exasperated voice - "I told-a you already" I tried to explain this was a different question. With my sweetest smile (it would work better if I were 20 or 30) again gesturing to show him my concern about the steep step up onto the train.... but it was clearly a futile effort. He was tired of these touristas and their wealthy relations....OR -- maybe he had just found out his job had been cut, or his wife left him or his dog died. Whatever his situation he was not going to be of much assistance to anyone today.....unless perhaps they were Italian -- in which case they would not need him.

I hope that by the time we reach Rome Kathy is feeling much improved since she had hoped to repeat our trek from the Spanish steps down to the Pantheon and then to the Trevi fountain and on to the Piazza Navona for dinner next to one of the great fountains.

The train station is a sea of people from the various ships which were docked returning from the vacation of your dreams. Most of these folks have a lot luggage, because unlike us, they have been on these tours before. They knew that you have lots of opportunities to dress formally and wear your jewelry and look beautiful after a trip to the spa and beauty salon on board. We on the other hand, had as little luggage as possible....since on the rest of the trip we are dragging our luggage about. Kathy packed a hard drive which weighs a ton and some other electronic equipment -- that I think we will send back with Matt next week, since I do not want to mess with that additional bag -- I think we can down load all her film onto the hard drive of her computer if she winds up taking too much footage --- but I don't think that she will have that much....we have a total between us of one rolling bag(mine) - one duffle bag - hers - a document bag, an electronics bag (hopefully to go home.) One bag that is her purse, one bag that has water and other things in it....and then Matt has his bags --- so when he leaves --- I have to be able to manage all our bags and the wheel chair...so I will be working on mastering this and paring down over the next few days of train travel.

When we came in 2003 we were with a tour where they tended your luggage faithfully....so when we took excursions away from them ---- they had our luggage and I only had the chair and our hand luggage to manage. This is different , but I think totally manageable.

Italian train stations are a bit dingy -- but they look pristine in comparison to what we saw in Egypt. One of the people on the tour to Luxor said that their guide explained that at present there is no garbage collection as there is in many countries --- so disposal of trash is really problematic. We know that many Americans find it quite convenient to toss trash onto the ground -- it is just that we also have folks who go around cleaning up after them and of course we also have garbage collected.....so I am not so sure that we should be entirely superior on this issue. The guide also indicated that they were beginning to teach people in schools about the importance of saving their national treasures and preserving the environment. But given the issues with water they are going to need a great deal of help.

A train pulled into the station --- I figured it was the 9:17 train --- it was 9:17 but in Italy time seems to fold on itself. Our train was supposed to leave at 9:41, but typical of Italy -- it turned out that this was the train...Kathy came and got me and and we got on and then waited until about 9:55 before whatever the train it was actually left the station. And that was after the lights flickered on and off several times in the cabin. This was the signal that the train had broken down before, so we were beginning to think we would have to disembark and take another train. When the lights came on and the train actually started to move the passengers cheered! Apparently that kind of thing is not uncommon.

We arrived in Rome at about 2:00 p.m. and got a taxi for our hotel which was very close to the beautiful old church the Santa Maria Maggiore. It turned out our Taxi Driver thought --- that we were inexperienced travelers. When he delivered us --- he tried to charge Kathy 32.20 Euro ---but she wasn't having any of that --- When she took his cab number and company he sang a different tune and she only had to pay 14 Euro. Later when we returned from the Piazza Navona -- we discovered that our hotel was only two blocks from the train station! The taxi driver had taken us all around Robin Hoods Barn and back again to make us think it was far away!

After we deposited our bags at the hotel we walked to a cafe across from the old church. Kathy and I had ham and cheese Paninni and Matt had Spaghetti. We ended our meal with gellato -- I had lemon and mat had chocolate and creme. After that treat we crossed the street and entered the Santa Maria Maggiore which in which Bernini lies entombed (I am not sure of this and would have to check my facts to be sure) It was absolutely beautiful --- there was a miniature of the Bernini alter there and stunning mosaics, gold leaf, frescoes, and to top everything off---it is a working church as mass was going on there.....crowds of tourists and only a handful of worshipers.

The fountain was being used as a place to cool off and a young man was letting his dogs romp there. We returned to our hotel and caught a taxi to the Forum. When we arrived we took a guided tour (something I had not done last time) It was surprisingly cool --in the shade. Of course the Romans laid the city out so that the breezes pass through the streets -- of course that means that the streets are laid out like a drunken sailor had left bread crumbs for the construction crew!

One of the benefits of the tour was to have a picture with a Roman Gladiator so our I got one with our school mascot being held at knife point --- hmmm--- maybe not the best image for the kids --- I may have to think about that! Kathy forgot her camera so after the Colosseum and the Palantine we wanted to head back to the hotel, but when we flagged down a cab the driver spoke rapid Italian while putting his hand to his head. He said -- "impossible" of course we couldn't figure out why it was impossible. We walked toward the Piazza Navona -- finally stopping for a drink at a cafe. It was a blessing to be under a canopy of green leaves in a gentle cooling breeze. Matt and I regrouped and after about 30 minutes we headed back out onto the street.

We walked and hailed a second cab who repeated the "impossible" -- We had noticed that the police were everywhere out in force, and had heard someone mention a Gay Pride Parade -- Dense Americans finally put two and two together and asked the cabby if he could take us to the Spanish Steps...which was a yes.

We took lots of pictures of Matt at the Steps where he found a cute babe -- unfortunately she was connected! As we walked down to the Trevi Fountain I was looking forward to a memory -- my memory of the 4th of July dinner we shared there in 2003 when Kathy got out her clock and we were nearly thrown out of the restaurant!

As we got to the Pantheon I was determined to get in. It was closed last time....for some reason. This time we couldn't go in because they were having mass. We were able to look in -- but my photos didn't come out because of the contrast of light to dark. So we went on to the Piazza. As we got nearer the noise level increased and when we entered the Piazza it was clear that the Gay Rights Parade was concluding here!

So here we had dinner at an elegant restaurant while the most bizarre parade was in front of us...everyone was blowing whistles, a drum corps accompanied the marchers and then the rock music started punctuated by speeches -- obviously angry in Italian --- which of course made it seem even angrier. I ordered two glasses of red wine - one for Matt and one for me to accompany our pasta. The waiter returned with them plus one white --- which I told him we did not order --- then the head waiter came and insisted that we ordered it and he could not change the order --- Unlike Kathy I am not aggressive so I just gave in. I think these waiters are able to understand a great deal and feign ignorance and bully people into whatever they want to give you. So far this has happened three times in Italy --- our order doesn't always reflect what we requested. Matt had a great time taking pics of the Gay marchers.... Finally we gave up on ever getting the Piazza back and we started walking looking for a Taxi Station.
We have learned that you can't hail a cab in Roma-- you must go to a taxi station --- we were just two blocks from one -- when Matt boldly risked life and limb to hail us one and we got back to our hotel safe and sound and late! I showered a second time to get the grit and grim from my skin. I stopped wearing make-up when we hit Italy before and I haven't put anymore on since --- it just melts in the Mediterranean sun...I started writing this -- but found myself nodding off...So it completed today's entry this morning. Here at club Eurostar in the train station. So for thse few entries --- which I have not had any time to reflect and edit --please forgive!!