Up at 5:45 a.m. Our tour was to leave at 7:00 a.m., but actually it left at 7:45 so we could have slept a bit later. We met in the Anchors Aweigh lounge forward and then left the ship by bus for Lindos. The journey took nearly one hour. I couldn't help but think how much this road and the terrain looked like the desert near Kathy's and my childhood home, Victorville, California. But then my eyes would wonder across the road and there was the expanse of Mediterranean sea that was so beautiful.
Our guide, Maria Morava, is excellent and she discussed the history of this area from earliest times until today.
She explained that it rains heavily here from October until May, but from May through the summer rainfall is rare. The Olive tree survives well under this extreme climate and requires no additional water. Until tourism became an industry here life was very difficult indeed. On the way there were many hotels along the beautiful beaches and apparently this is a vacation destination of many Europeans, but Lindos there are no hotels for it is an international historic site and all building must be consistent with the historic old buildings. These were mostly minimalistic squares of white. The bus stopped and we disembarked and caught a shuttle to the old town.
We began the walk almost immediately to the Acropolis. The old religion of the Greeks has things that carry over into the Greek Orthodox world even today. Maria explained that in the Greek Orthodox Church one does not see the alter -- just as in ancient times the alter to the God or Goddess was not viewed by the common people. Maria indicated that the screen with the icons that I have seen in Greek Orthodox chapels sits in front of the alter which is only slightly visible when the priest comes out during the service. June 6th, today is not only D-Day's anniversary, but here on Lindos, it is a day to celebrate the virgin and they offer to the virgin a mixture of wheat, spices, fruit and nuts just as might have been offered to Athena in ancient times. She offered us some which I found very dry but delicious. Just as in ancient times people bring their offerings to God.
When the acropolis was in use these offerings would have included food, flowers, money, jewelry. You would have offered your best. Originally there were no steps up to the Acropolis, but during the 3rd century B.C. the Greeks had colonies all over the known world and much wealth was brought home. At that time the steps we climbed today were added to make access to the temple easier. Though as we climbed them, I did not think they made things easier. They were high, black marble and there are sheer drops on one side of the stairway which is about 5 feet across. I was astounded that there is not a railing on the side that is opposite the mountainside. Partway up women wearing black were unpacking their linens which they hoped to sell to us on our return trip. They had heavy packs that they carried up the steep stairway and they were laying them on the ground where they held them in place with stones carefully placed to expose the beautiful embroidery or cutwork.
It was strenuous and I found that I stopped several times to catch my breath and drink a bit of water. The sun was already blazing down and even though I had a white hat and good stiff breeze I was hot! I couldn't imagine making this hike when the daily temperature reaches 100-110 degrees. This is a typical day in August. Maria pointed out once we reached the summit that there were covered porticoes in ancient times to help keep people cool. She also pointed out the way back to the bus. We must pass the church in order to reach the original destination, and it was easy to get lost in the maze of streets. I hesitate to label them streets. The are so narrow that no cars could pass here, just donkeys and carts. In fact we were offered "taxis." For just 5 euro we could ride a donkey to the top. Donkeys and goats are everywhere in Greece.
Where there were dogs in Athens there are cats on Mykanos and Rhodes. As we continued up to the actual sanctuary, a mother cat ascended the stairs in front of us. She had something large in her mouth and was calling to her kittens to come to dinner. None of these cats looks like American cats --- they are all skinny and look pretty unhealthy, but even though it is clear that the mother was herself very hungry -- like a good mother she fed her babies first!
Just when I thought Matt and I had reached the top -- there was another set of stairs in front of us. Matt stayed right with me, Kathy sent him to accompany me to keep me safe.....hmmm this certainly made me feel very old! Once on the top we were treated to amazing vistas in every direction. Throughout the temple area are many blocks of marble with footprints. These were the bases of many statues which are now in foreign museums. Maria described how this temple to Athena would have appeared in the 3rd century B.C. It was build out of sandstone blocks which were fitted together without mortar. This made it possible for the stones to shift without falling during seismic events! The columns had round holes in the center stones where the Greeks put cypress poles between two column stones to help hold them top of together - one on top of another. So if they were shaken down it was easy enough to re-assemble them.
At the beginning of the last century archaeologists thought they would reconstruct the building using concrete as mortar and rebar to hold the columns. What happened in 1957 when there was a great quake -- was that the archaeologists learned why the ancients used the materials they did! Isn't it amazing when we think we have everything figured out and feel superior to the past --- we are often humbled.
After some time at the top we headed down the hillside arriving at the bus just in time to leave. Kathy was perky and energetic having enjoyed several coffees in the cool tavernas at the city center. Matt and I were pretty well done in! When we arrived back at the ship I really wanted to wash up before we went out -- but as soon as I got cooled off -- we headed for the old town in Rhodes where we had a marvelous meal at a restaurant just past the ruins of an ancient church. We shared a Greek Salad and a combination plate that had a stuffed pepper, domaki, moussaka, and that unique cucumber and yogurt dip with cucumbers.... Matt had spaghetti.....Then we had a Greek dessert that was a cross between a cake and a cream. The cafe had free internet so I was able to upload my blog, check out my email clear some of it out---
We walked around several streets of the old town and I found some glue to fix my shoe! Back at the ship we showered and napped a bit before dinner. It is odd to eat so late. I enjoyed the sushi bar tonight for dinner. Off to bed and tomorrow we will visit Ephesus. Seems appropriate it is Sunday and it is a perfect day to contemplate Paul.
Monday, June 08, 2009
Saturday, June 06, 2009
Mykanos, Greece
Last night, we were trying to find news that would give us information about what was happening at home. On the T.V. there is a Bloomberg channel -- but we cannot get CNN or BBC -- which is puzzling since we get a Russian version of CNN. They have taken the CNN turning globe only put it in red and even used a bit of the music! Too bad we cannot get this in U.S. It is easy to see propaganda -- of course we have our own propaganda in our T.V. but it is not as easily detected. For example there has been a series since we have been on board about Pioneers of Science --- they are all Russian --- for example -- there is the pioneer of space rackets --- he turns out to be a guy who thought about rockets --- but not a real scientist who experimented with them like Goddard -- The commentator says that he was considered a dreamer in his time.....but they make no mention of Goddard. We asked at the desk about why we cannot pull in CNN and they said it had to do with the satellites --- So I guess if you are on this side of the world you only get a one-sided view of what is happening. Maybe not so different than in the US where you only get BBC and Us news agencies.
We woke at 8:00 a.m. and then went down to breakfast. We asked for Matt to get a wake-up call at 9:00, but when he didn't show for breakfast -- I went back to our cabin and called him. He didn't answer, but after about 10 more minutes I called again and he answered very groggy. We left at about 10:45 or so. Each time you leave the ship you have to scan in your pass so that they know you are not on board. We boarded a bus for old town Mykanos and found ourselves walking toward the city center very quickly. Looking back we could see the big ship --- the largest in the harbor so much easier to find than in Athens where it was one of many large ships!
Walking along we encountered a group of school children with an adult who were cleaning up trash and caring for and watering plants along the roadside. They had a sign that said, "save the planet." So it is clear that the entire world is rising to the occasion when it comes to caring for our world. It was heartening to see, But it was also sad to see how many tourists had left their trash beside the road.
It is easy to see why the colors of Greece are blue and white. The blue of the see against the white of the buildings. They look very much like the homes in New Mexico except that they are whitewashed --- the same blue doors and shutters though make this feel like it is not so foreign. We stopped at a cafe with a very accommodating waitress--and a resident butterscotch cat. Kathy and Matt ordered sodas --- but I asked for coffee. Anna asked if I wanted American coffee. I said I wanted Greek Coffee--she asked if I wanted it hot or iced. I again indicated a preference to drink what the average Greek would be drinking. She said, a Greek would definitely choose iced for summer. So that is what I got. It was not bitter, but not too sweet either. It was very frothy and creamy....and quite refreshing. Anna indicated that I would be wired by this coffee, but I did not feel the jolt. There were several old Greeks at the table next to us....who seemed to approve of my choice. One of them rode away on a donkey after he had finished his coffee.
As I finished, Kathy asked if I would go and look for a shirt for her with the windmills of Mykanos on it for her. I walked through a maze of what are not much wider than a broad hallway, occasionally opening up onto plakas. Everyone has glass especially glass with the ever-present eye in blue glass--It is like the eye of God -- the evil eye and is seen as a protector. There are little chapels with domes, and I wondered into a icon shop which had icons of every description. I looked for a shirt that was very light weight -- but would keep me from burning. Even with the 85 sunscreen yesterday I burned a bit -- I found several Christmas gifts and the shirt, but this is the first thing I have bought that was souvenir-ish.
We headed for the bus to catch a ride to the beach.The ride to the beach was great as we climbed up to the very top of the island and then down to the beach. I found a school, a field of hay with rather large birds which I didn't recognize in it, homes of ordinary Greeks as well as new construction that looked like it would find its way on the Better Homes & Garden T.V. programs for people buying vacation homes in far-flung places. Older women here seem to dress in Black.....I wonder why? There are also rock walls built everywhere. They do not follow straight lines but they divide up the terrain in an odd patchwork. I don't see any indication of use for these walls --- they are a mystery --- perhaps when have Internet access I will be able to find out about them. There are windmills in many of the little communities and many many many little chapels -- tiny --- some part of homes --- each with its own dome and cross!
The hills are brown and many of the bushes are dead, but some things like bougainvillea thrive and look all the more beautiful because of the striking colors. Hibiscus are actually trained into trees here, along with trumpet vine, and something that looks like Clematis. In Athens there were stunning trees with lavender blooms --- I do not know what they were, but I did not see them here on Mykanos.
When we got down to the beach --we asked when the bus would return. This was a very good thing because the bus would return after 5:00 p.m. to pick us up -- which was after the ship left port! So we turned around and went back by the same route to the little port. Where we had lunch. Kathy and I enjoyed a Greek Salad with the best olives and Feta Cheese I have ever had. We also s dolmadake (sp) stuffed grape leaves.
We returned to the ship and set sail. We watched the sunset in the Mediterranean. Just before sunset there was the most amazing display of dolphins jumping along side the ship. There was a whole school of them swimming along with us for a time. The sun as it set almost equally divided the sea and sky . The only way to clearly tell which was the water and the sky was that the water carried a gold line of reflection in the turquoise water. The breeze was beautiful and the water was smooth. Tomorrow we see Rhodes.
We woke at 8:00 a.m. and then went down to breakfast. We asked for Matt to get a wake-up call at 9:00, but when he didn't show for breakfast -- I went back to our cabin and called him. He didn't answer, but after about 10 more minutes I called again and he answered very groggy. We left at about 10:45 or so. Each time you leave the ship you have to scan in your pass so that they know you are not on board. We boarded a bus for old town Mykanos and found ourselves walking toward the city center very quickly. Looking back we could see the big ship --- the largest in the harbor so much easier to find than in Athens where it was one of many large ships!
Walking along we encountered a group of school children with an adult who were cleaning up trash and caring for and watering plants along the roadside. They had a sign that said, "save the planet." So it is clear that the entire world is rising to the occasion when it comes to caring for our world. It was heartening to see, But it was also sad to see how many tourists had left their trash beside the road.
It is easy to see why the colors of Greece are blue and white. The blue of the see against the white of the buildings. They look very much like the homes in New Mexico except that they are whitewashed --- the same blue doors and shutters though make this feel like it is not so foreign. We stopped at a cafe with a very accommodating waitress--and a resident butterscotch cat. Kathy and Matt ordered sodas --- but I asked for coffee. Anna asked if I wanted American coffee. I said I wanted Greek Coffee--she asked if I wanted it hot or iced. I again indicated a preference to drink what the average Greek would be drinking. She said, a Greek would definitely choose iced for summer. So that is what I got. It was not bitter, but not too sweet either. It was very frothy and creamy....and quite refreshing. Anna indicated that I would be wired by this coffee, but I did not feel the jolt. There were several old Greeks at the table next to us....who seemed to approve of my choice. One of them rode away on a donkey after he had finished his coffee.
As I finished, Kathy asked if I would go and look for a shirt for her with the windmills of Mykanos on it for her. I walked through a maze of what are not much wider than a broad hallway, occasionally opening up onto plakas. Everyone has glass especially glass with the ever-present eye in blue glass--It is like the eye of God -- the evil eye and is seen as a protector. There are little chapels with domes, and I wondered into a icon shop which had icons of every description. I looked for a shirt that was very light weight -- but would keep me from burning. Even with the 85 sunscreen yesterday I burned a bit -- I found several Christmas gifts and the shirt, but this is the first thing I have bought that was souvenir-ish.
We headed for the bus to catch a ride to the beach.The ride to the beach was great as we climbed up to the very top of the island and then down to the beach. I found a school, a field of hay with rather large birds which I didn't recognize in it, homes of ordinary Greeks as well as new construction that looked like it would find its way on the Better Homes & Garden T.V. programs for people buying vacation homes in far-flung places. Older women here seem to dress in Black.....I wonder why? There are also rock walls built everywhere. They do not follow straight lines but they divide up the terrain in an odd patchwork. I don't see any indication of use for these walls --- they are a mystery --- perhaps when have Internet access I will be able to find out about them. There are windmills in many of the little communities and many many many little chapels -- tiny --- some part of homes --- each with its own dome and cross!
The hills are brown and many of the bushes are dead, but some things like bougainvillea thrive and look all the more beautiful because of the striking colors. Hibiscus are actually trained into trees here, along with trumpet vine, and something that looks like Clematis. In Athens there were stunning trees with lavender blooms --- I do not know what they were, but I did not see them here on Mykanos.
When we got down to the beach --we asked when the bus would return. This was a very good thing because the bus would return after 5:00 p.m. to pick us up -- which was after the ship left port! So we turned around and went back by the same route to the little port. Where we had lunch. Kathy and I enjoyed a Greek Salad with the best olives and Feta Cheese I have ever had. We also s dolmadake (sp) stuffed grape leaves.
We returned to the ship and set sail. We watched the sunset in the Mediterranean. Just before sunset there was the most amazing display of dolphins jumping along side the ship. There was a whole school of them swimming along with us for a time. The sun as it set almost equally divided the sea and sky . The only way to clearly tell which was the water and the sky was that the water carried a gold line of reflection in the turquoise water. The breeze was beautiful and the water was smooth. Tomorrow we see Rhodes.
Friday, June 05, 2009
Athens from the TOP!!!
Athens -- up early - we left before any of the tours. Our panoramic tour of Athens didn't start until 1:30 from the ship-- so Kathy did not want us to waste the day away. When we got out on the port there were many cabbies ---waiting. When she told the cab driver where she wanted to go he tried to talk her out of that destination. She wanted to go to the Plaka (old town or plaza just beneath the Acropolis. The Cab driver told us that nothing opened until 10;00 a.m. That is probably why the tours don't leave until 9:30.
The driver told her it wouldbe $20 Euro and it should only have been around 9 Euro -- But he insisted that the morning traffic would be too difficult so that is why it is more. We found ourselves going in and out of side streets moving through traffic in ways that I have only heard of in books! Like all ancient cities -- the streets seem to radiate in all directions from the shore -- like a web of streets --- I don't know how people find their way in this --- there is nothing that is North, South, East or West.
We arrived at the Dionysus Restuarant just as it was opening. The acropolis overlooks this restuarant. Star jasmine scented the air as we sat at a table under an umbrella. Kathy ordered us capacinos and Matt had coke. I sat trying to take in the fact that I was looking up at the real Parthenon. There was a lovely wide street made of marble leading down and winding around the hill to the Plaka. This is the oldest part of the city filled with many shops and cafes. After we explored a large segment of the area, we stopped at another cafe and had a seond round of coffee and coke. The waiter kindly brough us water with ice in it!! This is a real luxury -- especially since we did not ask for it. People seem so friendly and eager to please.
We made our way up to a large public square where a demonstration of some sort was going on --- maybe it is firemen or some other profession that rescues people because they are dressed in uniforms similar to our firemen. It is quite peaceful. There are policement standing nearby --- one of them saw Kathy's wheelchair and hailed a cab for us. The first cab drove off when he thought the policeman wasn't looking --- but this guy is persistent and gets a seond cab to stop --- sometimes they do not like to carry the wheel chair. This fellow speaks less English than the one in the morning. Kathy handed him the port name (unfortunately -- it is written with English script -- Greek uses a cyrillic alphabet. It makes it impossible to read street signs --- though when the Olympics was here they must have put up these new signs --- for all the signs are in Greek and English.
Kathy does succeed in conveying to him that we need to get to the port, so Matt helped out with with some German which the man seems to understand about big ships. We feel lucky to be back in time for lunch and were able to make our connection for the afternoon tour. I was very glad that we went alone in the morning, because much of this tour is unsatisfying. There is only one stop and that was the Ollympic Grounds from 2004. I should have photographed it for my friend, the P.E. teacher, Darlene Nall, but it was not of particular interest to me. There were no stops at any of the spots that were historic until we got to the Acropolis. It was not too hot today--only in the 80's. We were told not to climb to the top. There would not be time --- it was steep and difficult and somewhat dangerous according to our guide --- but I couldn't come to the base of the acropolis and not make the attempt. I decided to begin the ascent and see how far I could get. We had only an hour at this stop for people to take photos and shop the souvenir shops....
I began the climb ---the steps were ancient marble --- worn and uneven---no handrails---but not so high as to be too challenging. I thought since I made the 200 plus steps to the top of Neuschwanstien Castle --- I could do this. When I reached the spot where the climb became really strenuous I had to pay 12 Euro to go up. Each step brought me closer to the remarkable vista which awaited at the top. I could look over the entire city of Athens and out to the sea. I could imagine ancient sailors arriving and looking up that this impressive temple with the statue of Athena glinting gold in the sun saying to all -- I am a powerful goddess. I protect the city. Do nothing to harm my city! It must have been impressive indeed as the huge doors swung open to reveal her presence.
The marble ruins look small from below --- but they are huge when you stand next to them. Dotting the path up the hill were what I assume to be olive trees. Knarled trunks and silver/green leaves, oleander, and star jasmine and a flower I did not recognize, but I took a photo of for later identification. I had an overwhelming urge to sit and ponder at the top -- but knew that I would miss the bus back to port if I did so and potentially cause distress to my friends, so all too quickly after taking photos I began my descent. Dogs are everywhere in the city and many lie sleeping on the path up to the acroplis. Perhaps people leave food offerings for them here. Some of them have collars, but many are obvious strays. It gave new meaning to the saying, "Let sleeping dogs lie!"
I was maybe five minutes late to the bus, but I was relieved to see that I was not the last straggler --- and I didn't divulge that I had been tot he top!
We were weary travelers as we returned to the ship. We sat and drank lemonade on the deck enjoying the cool sea breeze-- we had an early dinner (7:00) our regular formal seating is at 8:30...We retired earlier than on previous nights and planned to sleep until 8:00 a.m. by which time we should be docked at Mykanos.
The driver told her it wouldbe $20 Euro and it should only have been around 9 Euro -- But he insisted that the morning traffic would be too difficult so that is why it is more. We found ourselves going in and out of side streets moving through traffic in ways that I have only heard of in books! Like all ancient cities -- the streets seem to radiate in all directions from the shore -- like a web of streets --- I don't know how people find their way in this --- there is nothing that is North, South, East or West.
We arrived at the Dionysus Restuarant just as it was opening. The acropolis overlooks this restuarant. Star jasmine scented the air as we sat at a table under an umbrella. Kathy ordered us capacinos and Matt had coke. I sat trying to take in the fact that I was looking up at the real Parthenon. There was a lovely wide street made of marble leading down and winding around the hill to the Plaka. This is the oldest part of the city filled with many shops and cafes. After we explored a large segment of the area, we stopped at another cafe and had a seond round of coffee and coke. The waiter kindly brough us water with ice in it!! This is a real luxury -- especially since we did not ask for it. People seem so friendly and eager to please.
We made our way up to a large public square where a demonstration of some sort was going on --- maybe it is firemen or some other profession that rescues people because they are dressed in uniforms similar to our firemen. It is quite peaceful. There are policement standing nearby --- one of them saw Kathy's wheelchair and hailed a cab for us. The first cab drove off when he thought the policeman wasn't looking --- but this guy is persistent and gets a seond cab to stop --- sometimes they do not like to carry the wheel chair. This fellow speaks less English than the one in the morning. Kathy handed him the port name (unfortunately -- it is written with English script -- Greek uses a cyrillic alphabet. It makes it impossible to read street signs --- though when the Olympics was here they must have put up these new signs --- for all the signs are in Greek and English.
Kathy does succeed in conveying to him that we need to get to the port, so Matt helped out with with some German which the man seems to understand about big ships. We feel lucky to be back in time for lunch and were able to make our connection for the afternoon tour. I was very glad that we went alone in the morning, because much of this tour is unsatisfying. There is only one stop and that was the Ollympic Grounds from 2004. I should have photographed it for my friend, the P.E. teacher, Darlene Nall, but it was not of particular interest to me. There were no stops at any of the spots that were historic until we got to the Acropolis. It was not too hot today--only in the 80's. We were told not to climb to the top. There would not be time --- it was steep and difficult and somewhat dangerous according to our guide --- but I couldn't come to the base of the acropolis and not make the attempt. I decided to begin the ascent and see how far I could get. We had only an hour at this stop for people to take photos and shop the souvenir shops....
I began the climb ---the steps were ancient marble --- worn and uneven---no handrails---but not so high as to be too challenging. I thought since I made the 200 plus steps to the top of Neuschwanstien Castle --- I could do this. When I reached the spot where the climb became really strenuous I had to pay 12 Euro to go up. Each step brought me closer to the remarkable vista which awaited at the top. I could look over the entire city of Athens and out to the sea. I could imagine ancient sailors arriving and looking up that this impressive temple with the statue of Athena glinting gold in the sun saying to all -- I am a powerful goddess. I protect the city. Do nothing to harm my city! It must have been impressive indeed as the huge doors swung open to reveal her presence.
The marble ruins look small from below --- but they are huge when you stand next to them. Dotting the path up the hill were what I assume to be olive trees. Knarled trunks and silver/green leaves, oleander, and star jasmine and a flower I did not recognize, but I took a photo of for later identification. I had an overwhelming urge to sit and ponder at the top -- but knew that I would miss the bus back to port if I did so and potentially cause distress to my friends, so all too quickly after taking photos I began my descent. Dogs are everywhere in the city and many lie sleeping on the path up to the acroplis. Perhaps people leave food offerings for them here. Some of them have collars, but many are obvious strays. It gave new meaning to the saying, "Let sleeping dogs lie!"
I was maybe five minutes late to the bus, but I was relieved to see that I was not the last straggler --- and I didn't divulge that I had been tot he top!
We were weary travelers as we returned to the ship. We sat and drank lemonade on the deck enjoying the cool sea breeze-- we had an early dinner (7:00) our regular formal seating is at 8:30...We retired earlier than on previous nights and planned to sleep until 8:00 a.m. by which time we should be docked at Mykanos.
Thursday, June 04, 2009
Sea Day
The cruise ship is amazing --- it is like a floating city with everything you might want. The library is richly appointed with trey ceilings, inlaid woods, leather sofas and furniture of the Louis XVI style. The colors however, are dated circa 1980s (pink/turquoise) so this is an older ship/decore.
Everything is kept pristine . The brass balustrades are polished daily. The cabin crew cleans our cabins completely several times a day. Today Susan left a darling towel that was folded into the shape of a dog with floppy ears.....on our bed. Clearly she had cleaned the sink (polished) several times -- This is especially impressive since I know that at home -- there are socks on the floor, dishes in the sink and unmade beds.
Today was a "sea day" which means that we have been underway since last night speeding along at 22 knots and we will not reach Athens until 8:00 a.m. in the morning! We were discussing our perceptions about the Mediterranean sea -- Our history experience makes us think that Greece Rome were nearly neighbors -- but clearly they weren't -- I am thinking how long a trip it must have been when you couldn't travel at 22 knots.
The clouds come and go -- there are short periods of sun, but at no time is it truly hot! This is not a problem for me! After breakfast, I went up to the top deck. There is a track around the ship where people are jogging. Around the perimeter are deck chairs where people are trying to bake in the sun. It is such a pleasure to lie on one of these while the sun peeps in and out of the clouds and the wind blows across me in the most delightful way. The water is ultramarine and as the ship churns up the waves there is a long white trail into the distance. Dancing among the churned-up white waves is a color very much the same as cerulean mixed with and permelba white -- It is truly unexpected. Perhaps it is the size of the ship ...or perhaps this is unique to this sea.....
I slipped into a suit and spent a good hour in the whirlpool beside the pool. A salsa dance instruction is being given poolside as well, and it is fun to watch people abandon their inhibitions and give dance a try. There were two couples there -- one from Florida-- They work at Pensacola Christian College -- (He teaches bible and perhaps Greek) He is an expert in many things...He indicated that they are experimenting with growing their own vegetables and even animals. I perked up assuming that he was interested in organic gardening, but then it became clear that this was not the case. He seemed interested in producing his own food. I mentioned the slow food movement..to which he responded that it would not be possible to have tomatoes year round or some fruits....this told me that he had not read anything about the reason one might want to eat only seasonally.....so I pursued that no further. They had been through one of the hurricanes and the description was full of bravado.
The other couple are quiet. They live in Colorado. After a long soak it began to rain and I got out to pick up my towel and jacket before they got wet again. Lunch was in the windjammer cafe. The spreads are remarkable in their extent and variety. How they prepare food for 2,000 people in such elegance and the quantity (always small and artistically displayed) is quite mysterious to me....but there it is appearing with great regularity.
I went down to the library and wrote down yesterdays experiences since I was too exhausted to write it down at the end of the day yesterday. While I was there I met a retired architect who had been a librarian as well. She was from Vancouver where her husband had been a college professor. We spent some time discussing the profession and how it has changed. She graduated from Berkley....before computers were much on the scene.
Kathy and Matt and I met to eat at about 7:00 p.m. We could not attend the dinner this evening, because we had no formal clothing so we grazed the buffet. When I went out later in the evening, it felt a bit like Halloween to me --- Perhaps the older ladies are remembering how they looked in their youth. Many are poured into their gowns as though they were sausage casings. They are wearing spaghetti straps and look a bit garish with flapping triceps! The men on the other hand all look fine, because a suit just doesn't expose aging body parts!
Tomorrow we will be in Athens where I will see the Acropolis!
Everything is kept pristine . The brass balustrades are polished daily. The cabin crew cleans our cabins completely several times a day. Today Susan left a darling towel that was folded into the shape of a dog with floppy ears.....on our bed. Clearly she had cleaned the sink (polished) several times -- This is especially impressive since I know that at home -- there are socks on the floor, dishes in the sink and unmade beds.
Today was a "sea day" which means that we have been underway since last night speeding along at 22 knots and we will not reach Athens until 8:00 a.m. in the morning! We were discussing our perceptions about the Mediterranean sea -- Our history experience makes us think that Greece Rome were nearly neighbors -- but clearly they weren't -- I am thinking how long a trip it must have been when you couldn't travel at 22 knots.
The clouds come and go -- there are short periods of sun, but at no time is it truly hot! This is not a problem for me! After breakfast, I went up to the top deck. There is a track around the ship where people are jogging. Around the perimeter are deck chairs where people are trying to bake in the sun. It is such a pleasure to lie on one of these while the sun peeps in and out of the clouds and the wind blows across me in the most delightful way. The water is ultramarine and as the ship churns up the waves there is a long white trail into the distance. Dancing among the churned-up white waves is a color very much the same as cerulean mixed with and permelba white -- It is truly unexpected. Perhaps it is the size of the ship ...or perhaps this is unique to this sea.....
I slipped into a suit and spent a good hour in the whirlpool beside the pool. A salsa dance instruction is being given poolside as well, and it is fun to watch people abandon their inhibitions and give dance a try. There were two couples there -- one from Florida-- They work at Pensacola Christian College -- (He teaches bible and perhaps Greek) He is an expert in many things...He indicated that they are experimenting with growing their own vegetables and even animals. I perked up assuming that he was interested in organic gardening, but then it became clear that this was not the case. He seemed interested in producing his own food. I mentioned the slow food movement..to which he responded that it would not be possible to have tomatoes year round or some fruits....this told me that he had not read anything about the reason one might want to eat only seasonally.....so I pursued that no further. They had been through one of the hurricanes and the description was full of bravado.
The other couple are quiet. They live in Colorado. After a long soak it began to rain and I got out to pick up my towel and jacket before they got wet again. Lunch was in the windjammer cafe. The spreads are remarkable in their extent and variety. How they prepare food for 2,000 people in such elegance and the quantity (always small and artistically displayed) is quite mysterious to me....but there it is appearing with great regularity.
I went down to the library and wrote down yesterdays experiences since I was too exhausted to write it down at the end of the day yesterday. While I was there I met a retired architect who had been a librarian as well. She was from Vancouver where her husband had been a college professor. We spent some time discussing the profession and how it has changed. She graduated from Berkley....before computers were much on the scene.
Kathy and Matt and I met to eat at about 7:00 p.m. We could not attend the dinner this evening, because we had no formal clothing so we grazed the buffet. When I went out later in the evening, it felt a bit like Halloween to me --- Perhaps the older ladies are remembering how they looked in their youth. Many are poured into their gowns as though they were sausage casings. They are wearing spaghetti straps and look a bit garish with flapping triceps! The men on the other hand all look fine, because a suit just doesn't expose aging body parts!
Tomorrow we will be in Athens where I will see the Acropolis!
Wednesday, June 03, 2009
The ocean is wide and my ship is huge!
First day aboard ship was a bit hectic, because of the confusion of our arrival. Kathy was so frustrated last night worrying about not making the tours she had wanted that she did not go to sleep until about 1:00 a.m. Then we were up at 6:00 to be in line at the excursion desk to book the day's tours. Clearly we should have booked these on-line -- but since this cruise was a last minute choice that was not possible for us. BUT should you ever book a cruise do this on line before hand.
We were fortunate to be able to book the tour that Kathy wanted and the ones that Matt and I were going to go on. Then it was a rush to get Kathy on the tour bus -- We took the elevator down to 1st floor. Even though I was turning around and coming right back --- I had to swipe my card indicating I was leaving the ship...and go through the process on returning -- going through security and all --- but that seemed like very little to pay for the opportunity of a lifetime
I came back up to the stateroom which is very small, but efficient. The Stateroom we had was on the 6th deck -- but it was a long walk down the hall from the exit and Kathy always prefers to be near an exit where she can climb down the stairs if an emergency arrives so we switched with Matt --- and our current stateroom was designed for a single resident -- since the bed is up against the wall --- which means I must crawl over the end to get out--- And it is smaller -- but we are able to organize our stuff sufficiently to make the space comfortable. --- We are spending most of our time on board outside the room anyway.
In the early afternoon Matt and I took the tour to Herculaneum. We passed the infirmary and saw that they were dispensing seasickness pills for free --- The dispensary smells like any Doctor's office -- there is a small waiting room -- no one is there -- so hopefully that is a good sign. We learned that there are nearly
2000 people on board this cruise! We head out to the tour bus where we scan our cards in to indicate that we are leaving --and find Jose our tour guide. He is very Italian -- always calling us ladies and gentlemen --- and madame.....The rain is pouring from the sky and it is somewhat disappointing to realize that it will not be so pleasant wandering around the ruins. The fog hangs over Vesuvius as we traveled toward our destination.
On the way we stop at a tourist shop where a cameo carver works at a bench. He demonstrated the method by which he created the beautiful work that was sold in the shop next door. He is 78 and a genuine charmer --- when Jose calls him the master -- the old man points skyward shaking his head to indicate that it is God who is the master. I would love to have one of his pieces - but I restrain myself and do not spend the money --- I remind myself that it is the experience and the memory === not the stuff that will make this trip so valuable to me. I am reminded of the last trip when the Australians bought one of everything that the tour guide placed in our paths --- and I think that it would be easy to do that in this setting as well.
When we arrive at Herculaneum the rain seems to have slowed and we begin our descent into the ancient city --- It is a couple of hundred feet down -- because the pyroclastic flow buried the town. Then the skies opened up and water poured down. During our tour the rains continued to dump water everywhere then abruptly stop for a few moments lulling us into thinking that maybe the clouds would clear. On the bright side, it made it is easy to she how the ancient cisterns worked, and it also made it easy to see how the old city sewers drained into the sea! Home after home demonstrated that those who were wealthy lived very well indeed and those who served them, worked very hard indeed! The frescoes were beautiful in their detail and finesse. I hope the photos do them justice. But it is so hard to put yourself in a space using photographs-- even video does not give you a sense of it.
We saw the public baths, bathrooms, eateries, and other details. At one point water was streaming down my face from my hair --- my clothes were saturated--- I had clay on my pale green pants --- I looked a mess --- the tour guide looked at me and said, "Ah, Lady, it pains me to see you like this." Did I mention one of the other people gave me a plastic bag that I could tear and use to divert some of the water from my head.
The tour was actually one we could have taken Kathy on -- since there were not too many steps --- there was a long incline down which we could have got the wheelchair without too much difficulty -- When we got back I asked the purser why it says it is not wheel chair accessible-- She said it is because some people in wheel chairs cannot take steps at all --- and that they always err on the side of caution ... This is good information to have since -- It means that those outings that are marked as mildly strenuous are probably not strenuous at all.
We had our first sit-down dinner in the dinning room last night --- we had interesting seat mates. A young man and his wife --- who have just finished college -- a couple our age from Scotland, and a couple from Wales. The meal was outstanding and the conversation was directed by the young man who was very gregarious.
We were late to the 8:30 dinner time --- because our clock was off by nearly 45 minutes....so we were not even fashionably late--we were LATE -- but it was nice to have a beautifully appointed meal instead of buffet style. We retired and I crashed immediately -- the train problems from the day before and the uncertainty about our tickets took a toll!
We were fortunate to be able to book the tour that Kathy wanted and the ones that Matt and I were going to go on. Then it was a rush to get Kathy on the tour bus -- We took the elevator down to 1st floor. Even though I was turning around and coming right back --- I had to swipe my card indicating I was leaving the ship...and go through the process on returning -- going through security and all --- but that seemed like very little to pay for the opportunity of a lifetime
I came back up to the stateroom which is very small, but efficient. The Stateroom we had was on the 6th deck -- but it was a long walk down the hall from the exit and Kathy always prefers to be near an exit where she can climb down the stairs if an emergency arrives so we switched with Matt --- and our current stateroom was designed for a single resident -- since the bed is up against the wall --- which means I must crawl over the end to get out--- And it is smaller -- but we are able to organize our stuff sufficiently to make the space comfortable. --- We are spending most of our time on board outside the room anyway.
In the early afternoon Matt and I took the tour to Herculaneum. We passed the infirmary and saw that they were dispensing seasickness pills for free --- The dispensary smells like any Doctor's office -- there is a small waiting room -- no one is there -- so hopefully that is a good sign. We learned that there are nearly
2000 people on board this cruise! We head out to the tour bus where we scan our cards in to indicate that we are leaving --and find Jose our tour guide. He is very Italian -- always calling us ladies and gentlemen --- and madame.....The rain is pouring from the sky and it is somewhat disappointing to realize that it will not be so pleasant wandering around the ruins. The fog hangs over Vesuvius as we traveled toward our destination.
On the way we stop at a tourist shop where a cameo carver works at a bench. He demonstrated the method by which he created the beautiful work that was sold in the shop next door. He is 78 and a genuine charmer --- when Jose calls him the master -- the old man points skyward shaking his head to indicate that it is God who is the master. I would love to have one of his pieces - but I restrain myself and do not spend the money --- I remind myself that it is the experience and the memory === not the stuff that will make this trip so valuable to me. I am reminded of the last trip when the Australians bought one of everything that the tour guide placed in our paths --- and I think that it would be easy to do that in this setting as well.
When we arrive at Herculaneum the rain seems to have slowed and we begin our descent into the ancient city --- It is a couple of hundred feet down -- because the pyroclastic flow buried the town. Then the skies opened up and water poured down. During our tour the rains continued to dump water everywhere then abruptly stop for a few moments lulling us into thinking that maybe the clouds would clear. On the bright side, it made it is easy to she how the ancient cisterns worked, and it also made it easy to see how the old city sewers drained into the sea! Home after home demonstrated that those who were wealthy lived very well indeed and those who served them, worked very hard indeed! The frescoes were beautiful in their detail and finesse. I hope the photos do them justice. But it is so hard to put yourself in a space using photographs-- even video does not give you a sense of it.
We saw the public baths, bathrooms, eateries, and other details. At one point water was streaming down my face from my hair --- my clothes were saturated--- I had clay on my pale green pants --- I looked a mess --- the tour guide looked at me and said, "Ah, Lady, it pains me to see you like this." Did I mention one of the other people gave me a plastic bag that I could tear and use to divert some of the water from my head.
The tour was actually one we could have taken Kathy on -- since there were not too many steps --- there was a long incline down which we could have got the wheelchair without too much difficulty -- When we got back I asked the purser why it says it is not wheel chair accessible-- She said it is because some people in wheel chairs cannot take steps at all --- and that they always err on the side of caution ... This is good information to have since -- It means that those outings that are marked as mildly strenuous are probably not strenuous at all.
We had our first sit-down dinner in the dinning room last night --- we had interesting seat mates. A young man and his wife --- who have just finished college -- a couple our age from Scotland, and a couple from Wales. The meal was outstanding and the conversation was directed by the young man who was very gregarious.
We were late to the 8:30 dinner time --- because our clock was off by nearly 45 minutes....so we were not even fashionably late--we were LATE -- but it was nice to have a beautifully appointed meal instead of buffet style. We retired and I crashed immediately -- the train problems from the day before and the uncertainty about our tickets took a toll!
Tuesday, June 02, 2009
Rome to the High Seas!!
Rainy morning -- but beautifully comfortable other than that. Breakfast was chocolate croissant, coffee, fruit and for me two boiled eggs. Once again the appointments at table were lovely -- the ever-present creamy yellow linens, fine china and flowers! The rooms were quite comfortable --- standard European bathrooms with slippery marble floors, very high step up for the tub. The hand towels are linen -- not terry --- I did not remember this from our previous trip! I guess my face is like fine china and needs linen towels to wash and dry it!!!! The Lights and electricity in the room were initiated by inserting the card attached to the key into a slot next to the door.
Unlocking the door was a challenge --- we actually had to have the desk person come and help us. The door knobs do not turn at all, and the doors are metal. There is a second click in the lock that is the point at which one can enter. The windows opened onto a courtyard where we could see many apartment homes --- there were lemon, and other citrus trees on balconies and many flowers. The scent of star jasmine is almost overpowering. When we arrived we found that the hotel would open the entrance for deliveries so that Kathy didn't have to climb the stairs....Huge wrought-iron gates swung open and we entered a long narrow drive to the back of the hotel.
After a good night's sleep we headed out to the Vatican. The rain was drenching ---the crowd was cued up to enter and at 9:00 a.m. they opened the doors. The guards were very good about helping us get through all the barriers. As we head down the ramp to the crypt where the popes are buried --- it was truly treacherous. My sandals did not provide good traction and I found myself slipping along trying not to fall as Matt pushed Kathy in the chair. There were no rugs to help -- and no signs warning people either. The rounded cobblestones were also not only uneven -- but slick as well!
The crowds must be mostly Catholic since they were reverently quiet. An ancient nun was giving instructions on how to show respect as we entered. No one was permitted to take photos in the crypt. We made our way to the Basilica to the Pi eta and around the entire church! It is so overwhelmingly large and the marble and statuary command our attention. Unfortunately we were under time constraints and rushed through. Still, this time I tried to photograph different parts of the church than when I was here before... There were a number of side chapels with mass being said....but this may relate to a holiday which was being celebrated on June 1st. HOWEVER we could not find what holiday it was. Once we exited the Vatican it was pouring rain --- we walked along the cobblestone which was slick with water again.....until we found a taxi to take us back to Hotel delle Vittorie Piazza Mazzini.
( -- to pick up our luggage and head for the train station.)
Once at the Train Station the challenge was to find track 28 ...1-23 were marked everywhere --- we had to locate a lift (acensore) and then locate the signs for the track we needed. Apparently these tracks are for local destinations and therefore not as well marked as the first 23 tracks --- since local people generally know where they are going! Matt was especially good help in locating the sign and then booking it to the location. He is a delightful young man with a bright mind and a rye sense of humor!
Once we found out where to go it was a long walk and we missed the 11:40 train by 1 minute. Then we sat for a long time on the train waiting to leave. Italian trains are filthy --- they smell of feces and urine and look as though no one cleans them much. Kind of like a dirty greyhound bus.
We waited until the time passed for the train to leave. We figured when it didn't leave that perhaps there were not enough people on the train ---- Then the next time for leaving arrived and it seemed that the train was having difficulty. Finally the train started -- but at one point we stopped and suddenly everyone started to complain and get off the train...We surmised that the train had broken down --- and followed people to the train on the next platform...but had to run along car after car --- because that train already had many people on the train. We finally got on and found seats --- Ultimately we arrived at the port only to learn that there was no lift for Kathy-- She had to climb down about 25 stairs and then climb up another 25 to get to the street where a taxi awaited. Unfortunately --- The irony is that Italians dress beautifully and it pained me to see them put those fine clothes in contact with such dirt!! The trains have a design element that is perhaps "post-modern" -- but all that is ruined by the dirt and stench!
The train seemed to have trouble getting going --- so we were relieved when it finally left the station about 15 minutes later than the second train time that we waited through. It would give us time to get to the port --- but suddenly at one of the stops the train failed all together. People began to leave muttering --- of course in languages we did not understand! I wondered if this is what it felt like on Pentecost! After all Sunday was Pentecost!!! Luckily there was a young woman who spoke a little English who told us to transfer our bags to a train directly across the platform (that was a real blessing---since if it had been on another platform we would have had the additional difficulty of either finding a lift or in helping Kathy try to get down and up the stairs before the train left!!! The conductor indicated to Kathy (we thought) that the train across the platform was the one as well --- and it it said Pisa was it's destination --- and Kathy had a map which indicated that it would pass through the port of Civitiavechia on the way --- so we were somewhat confident that we were on the right train --- but then one can never be sure in these circumstances and so --- we were worried. Ironically no one came through to check our tickets whom we could then have asked if we were on the right train!
When we arrived at the port -- we discovered that there was no lift and not path across the tracks --- Kathy had to walk down 25 stairs and up another 25 to get to the station. Fortunately there were some Americans on the train who were headed for the same cruise and helped Matt get the bags down and up the stairs. He is going to be in great shape when he gets home. There was a bus to the ship --- which probably would have been easier for her to board --- but it was a 4 block walk to get there and she was worried that we might miss it --- so we took a taxi.
The taxi didn't have a stool and it was too high for Kathy to climb up into --- so Matt had to push as Kathy pulled and finally got up.....and in short order we were at the check in point --- They put us through the same kind of routine you go through when you board a plane -- they took our passports and got us on board. Kathy and I are in cabin 3581 --- Matt is in 6617 --- There was confusion about this -- because I am actually in Matt's room --- seems that Until you are 24 you have to have an adult in the cabin ---- Ultimately we got set up --- and went to dinner --- which was excellent.
After dinner we stopped at the desk to pick up our tickets for the tours in the morning, but they did not have any for us and thus began a traumatic evening of contingency planning which might have included leaving the ship and planning our own tours.....Kathy was really frustrated and tired after a day of unexpected problems so this wasn't a good thing to happen at the end of what was otherwise ULTIMATELY a very tiring but successful day.
Unlocking the door was a challenge --- we actually had to have the desk person come and help us. The door knobs do not turn at all, and the doors are metal. There is a second click in the lock that is the point at which one can enter. The windows opened onto a courtyard where we could see many apartment homes --- there were lemon, and other citrus trees on balconies and many flowers. The scent of star jasmine is almost overpowering. When we arrived we found that the hotel would open the entrance for deliveries so that Kathy didn't have to climb the stairs....Huge wrought-iron gates swung open and we entered a long narrow drive to the back of the hotel.
After a good night's sleep we headed out to the Vatican. The rain was drenching ---the crowd was cued up to enter and at 9:00 a.m. they opened the doors. The guards were very good about helping us get through all the barriers. As we head down the ramp to the crypt where the popes are buried --- it was truly treacherous. My sandals did not provide good traction and I found myself slipping along trying not to fall as Matt pushed Kathy in the chair. There were no rugs to help -- and no signs warning people either. The rounded cobblestones were also not only uneven -- but slick as well!
The crowds must be mostly Catholic since they were reverently quiet. An ancient nun was giving instructions on how to show respect as we entered. No one was permitted to take photos in the crypt. We made our way to the Basilica to the Pi eta and around the entire church! It is so overwhelmingly large and the marble and statuary command our attention. Unfortunately we were under time constraints and rushed through. Still, this time I tried to photograph different parts of the church than when I was here before... There were a number of side chapels with mass being said....but this may relate to a holiday which was being celebrated on June 1st. HOWEVER we could not find what holiday it was. Once we exited the Vatican it was pouring rain --- we walked along the cobblestone which was slick with water again.....until we found a taxi to take us back to Hotel delle Vittorie Piazza Mazzini.
( -- to pick up our luggage and head for the train station.)
Once at the Train Station the challenge was to find track 28 ...1-23 were marked everywhere --- we had to locate a lift (acensore) and then locate the signs for the track we needed. Apparently these tracks are for local destinations and therefore not as well marked as the first 23 tracks --- since local people generally know where they are going! Matt was especially good help in locating the sign and then booking it to the location. He is a delightful young man with a bright mind and a rye sense of humor!
Once we found out where to go it was a long walk and we missed the 11:40 train by 1 minute. Then we sat for a long time on the train waiting to leave. Italian trains are filthy --- they smell of feces and urine and look as though no one cleans them much. Kind of like a dirty greyhound bus.
We waited until the time passed for the train to leave. We figured when it didn't leave that perhaps there were not enough people on the train ---- Then the next time for leaving arrived and it seemed that the train was having difficulty. Finally the train started -- but at one point we stopped and suddenly everyone started to complain and get off the train...We surmised that the train had broken down --- and followed people to the train on the next platform...but had to run along car after car --- because that train already had many people on the train. We finally got on and found seats --- Ultimately we arrived at the port only to learn that there was no lift for Kathy-- She had to climb down about 25 stairs and then climb up another 25 to get to the street where a taxi awaited. Unfortunately --- The irony is that Italians dress beautifully and it pained me to see them put those fine clothes in contact with such dirt!! The trains have a design element that is perhaps "post-modern" -- but all that is ruined by the dirt and stench!
The train seemed to have trouble getting going --- so we were relieved when it finally left the station about 15 minutes later than the second train time that we waited through. It would give us time to get to the port --- but suddenly at one of the stops the train failed all together. People began to leave muttering --- of course in languages we did not understand! I wondered if this is what it felt like on Pentecost! After all Sunday was Pentecost!!! Luckily there was a young woman who spoke a little English who told us to transfer our bags to a train directly across the platform (that was a real blessing---since if it had been on another platform we would have had the additional difficulty of either finding a lift or in helping Kathy try to get down and up the stairs before the train left!!! The conductor indicated to Kathy (we thought) that the train across the platform was the one as well --- and it it said Pisa was it's destination --- and Kathy had a map which indicated that it would pass through the port of Civitiavechia on the way --- so we were somewhat confident that we were on the right train --- but then one can never be sure in these circumstances and so --- we were worried. Ironically no one came through to check our tickets whom we could then have asked if we were on the right train!
When we arrived at the port -- we discovered that there was no lift and not path across the tracks --- Kathy had to walk down 25 stairs and up another 25 to get to the station. Fortunately there were some Americans on the train who were headed for the same cruise and helped Matt get the bags down and up the stairs. He is going to be in great shape when he gets home. There was a bus to the ship --- which probably would have been easier for her to board --- but it was a 4 block walk to get there and she was worried that we might miss it --- so we took a taxi.
The taxi didn't have a stool and it was too high for Kathy to climb up into --- so Matt had to push as Kathy pulled and finally got up.....and in short order we were at the check in point --- They put us through the same kind of routine you go through when you board a plane -- they took our passports and got us on board. Kathy and I are in cabin 3581 --- Matt is in 6617 --- There was confusion about this -- because I am actually in Matt's room --- seems that Until you are 24 you have to have an adult in the cabin ---- Ultimately we got set up --- and went to dinner --- which was excellent.
After dinner we stopped at the desk to pick up our tickets for the tours in the morning, but they did not have any for us and thus began a traumatic evening of contingency planning which might have included leaving the ship and planning our own tours.....Kathy was really frustrated and tired after a day of unexpected problems so this wasn't a good thing to happen at the end of what was otherwise ULTIMATELY a very tiring but successful day.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Rain, Luggage and Ugly Americans
Munich to Bologne---change to Rome...Breakfast at the Alpha was lovely. They had scrambled eggs, a variety of breads, including sweet -even chocolate. They also had a section of traditional German food - meats/sausage/cheese/breads and yogurt with museli. The tables were covered with white linens topped with pale yellow linen. The coffee was strong and came in little pots with small pitchers of milch. Our waitress was Vietnamese seemed very grateful for the tip we leave behind. The walk to DB was easy enough, but the stuff weighed us down...I pulled two roller bags with stuff attached and Mat pushed Kathy who is carrying a bag full of documentation, one full of meds, and one full of electronics.
We found our Gleis (platform ) 13 and then waited for the train. The Germans are so organized they had a map of the cars on wall --- so that we could find our car number and stand next to it. Kathy bought first class tickets so that we would be comfortable on this long part of our journey ---The cars have an isle along the side and the compartments have six seats each with comfortable headrests. There are overhead baggage racks -- which are tilted upward so that the baggage will not shift and fall on your heads.
As we travel southward the countryside is still very German. ..... the villages all have a center and a beautiful church spire. I wonder if the spires are indicative of denomination....We traveled through the alps down toward Innsbruck, Austria. The roofs of the houses look like Spanish tile --- but instead of half rounds they are patterned in rectangles.
As we cross over into Italy several things are apparent The trains are less well maintained -- or perhaps they are just older. The buildings also look older perhaps less cared for. There is more graffiti. Perhaps we are in more industrial areas. The hillsides are dotted with little towns and there are the charming steeples ever present. Some of the towns have obvious ruins of castles in evidence. The further south we go the the more the steeples begin to have Romanesque qualities.
We seem to be entering Trento from a part of town that is like what you would expect to find in a bus station in America, a homeless man was curled up on one of the benches and his belongings were in a shopping cart --but he was the first homeless person I have seen. Outside the station are many motorcycles, the most common means of transportation on these narrow roads. It has been raining fairly hard off and on. Each country seems to have a different system for waste. Italy also has people sort their waste in public places into cans, plastics and paper. Here instead of bins there are little donuts with plastic bags attached beneath.
Luggage is a real problem...we have too much when we start to move around. I have just one bag ---on wheels. Kathy has four and Mat has two --- it is quite a choreographed event to get these off the train and organized so that we can push Kathy in the chair and I can take Kathy's and mine and pull the two with bags on them making them into rolling carts. \
It has been overcast all day with no visible sun and still it is quite cool, I caught a cat nap and started one of Mat's fantasy books -- a series I had been thinking of reading for some time.....the Wheel of Time series.
Most of the agriculture in Northern Italy is vineyards ---along terraced hillsides. There is no restaurant on the train -- apparently it broke down and they detached the dining car --- but no one told us that so it is lucky we had made sandwiches at breakfast and also we had fruit. Our traveling companions are a Korean businessman who attended a Solar symposium in Munich and was now taking some vacation and and Italian who said not one word but was texting.
The Korean was very amiable and we had a good visit about his company.
We arrived in Verona a city of beautiful rolling hills with the cypress trees pointing skyward. Magnificent old buildings...but we had to change trains in just 15 minutes so we began about five minutes before schlepping the bags to the exit of the train. We had a great Conductor who helped with the chair and then gave us directions on how to get to our platform.....THANK God the train we needed was just on the other side of the platform where we arrived. It was a Eurostar train --- which means luxurious and fast.
We arrived in Verona a city of beautiful rolling hills with the cypress trees pointing skyward. Magnificent old buildings...but we had to change trains in just 15 minutes so we began about five minutes before schlepping the bags to the exit of the train. We had a great Conductor who helped with the chair and then gave us directions on how to get to our platform.....THANK God the train we needed was just on the other side of the platform where we arrived. It was a Eurostar train --- which means luxurious and fast.
Two Americans sat across the isle from us. They were an interesting pair. In their 50s or 60s..the man is wearing jeans, a fine Italian shirt -- He has his Bose earphones on and his wife has a 3 or 4 carat emerald wedding band surrounded by diamonds. They sit in single seats. Our seat mate from the train to Bologne -- fell backward against the man as he was trying to get his luggage down -- this guy is the kind of fellow who would give America a bad name-- He rolled his eyes and made negative comments. His wife suggested the guy was not out of line and this fellow was O.K. To which he responded that "He was clearly out of control" Later he made a bid as they were playing cards and when she didn't hear -- he spoke in a very intimidating manner to her.
After a severe downpour we arrived late in Rome and took a cab to the Hotel De Vittorie not far from the Vatican. It was too late to do anything so we went next door to the little restuarant and had a wonderfully prepared Italian meal. We started with the Fresh mozzarella, cheese and basil salad, Then neopolitano spaghetti (it was a huge portion so mat ate at least half of mine. Matt and I shared a grilled Chicken Breast -- and Matt had the chocolate torte while I had a cup of co fee--- now off to bed and tomorrow we visit the Vatican and then on to the Cruise Ship!
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Munich and pigs knuckles
As we travelled by train toward Munich the meadows widened outand fields of clover, yellow flowers, and still some lupine are beautifully visible. The little towns are spaced about every thirty miles, and the mountains are becoming less dramatic on either side of the valley. Trees are now mostly deciduous and divide fields where the cattle often lie down quite contentedly. I have seen no feed lots or any signs of giant agricultural operations.
A cerulean blue stream moves swiftly along side the train now and again. The waters clearly come from the glaciers, and I have to wonder what will happen when the glaciers are all gone -- most of the rivers in this region seem to be filled with glacial melt.
We were in 1st class on this trip, a space which we seem to have to ourselves. It is nice and roomy with very comfortable seats and space between them. This trip was non-stop and we arrived in Munich around 2:30. Since the train ended it run here we did not have to race to unload our luggage as we would have if the train had been moving on. Trains run on time in Northern Europe and there is little time for margin of error in arriving to catch one or even in getting your luggage off the train before it begins to move again!
We walked along a long platform to the central station. This is the station I missed when I went on to Garmisch...on my own last Sunday. There are Starbucks, Burger King, McDonalds --- Burger King advertises a meal of hamburger, fires and coke for 2.99 Euro....which is really cheap. A brie sandwich (lettuce cheese and tomato on a really lovely dark bread was 4.95 Euro --- the healthy choice was considerably more expensive.) Beer, water and wine are all pretty much equal in cost.
We arrived at our hotel Alpha Centre on Hirtenstrasse - just two blocks from the train station. At first they told us our reservation was cancelled, but on further investigation it is found, but they have not made provision for me at all....so Kathy winds up paying $55.00 more for the place AND we are in interesting rooms. They are pristine and very modern in some ways --but absolutely tiny --- there are two twins in one room --with a tiny refrigerator well stocked with booze -- a small closet a tiny t.v. --- rather like a small travel trailer might be in America. The bathroom is a step up --again very clean -- VERY small -- and there is a second step up into the shower of about 15 inches... it was also difficult to get up the lift -- to get to it we had to take our stuff up 15 steps --- before you get to the elevator which holds two people with two suitcases..
Our room is 294 but we are on the 5th floor --- of the hotel. After we deposit our stuff we hire a cab to take us to the Hoffbrau Haus (actually two cabs) --- it cost 11.90 plus two euros for each cab -- to get there -- The Hoffbrau Haus is a traditional beergarten -- There are rows and rows of wooden tables with benches and the ceiling is painted in ornate but primitive designs -- There is a bandstand where a German ompah band plays and Germans join in singing old German drinking songs...There are many Germans here dressed in native Bavarian costume -- After asking it appears that they wear these costumes out of pride -- to the Hoffbrau Haus and other places in Munich--as well --- they have not been paid or are part of the local color -- they apparently do it from pride.
Our room is 294 but we are on the 5th floor --- of the hotel. After we deposit our stuff we hire a cab to take us to the Hoffbrau Haus (actually two cabs) --- it cost 11.90 plus two euros for each cab -- to get there -- The Hoffbrau Haus is a traditional beergarten -- There are rows and rows of wooden tables with benches and the ceiling is painted in ornate but primitive designs -- There is a bandstand where a German ompah band plays and Germans join in singing old German drinking songs...There are many Germans here dressed in native Bavarian costume -- After asking it appears that they wear these costumes out of pride -- to the Hoffbrau Haus and other places in Munich--as well --- they have not been paid or are part of the local color -- they apparently do it from pride.
I ordered the vegetarian Spetzle --with Swiss cheese (emantaller and a green salad that has a dressing like my grandmother used to make)--- Bunny had the Pork steak with potato gratin --- Kathy had the snitzle and Cindy had the bratwurst and sauerkraut. We shared a cheese plate and three apelfstrussel and we bought bread.....to go with it. None of us had beer....
After we sat listening and watching the kitchen produce vast quantities of food and deliver them on platters to guests -- we saw many tankards of beer leave the place --- and realized that probably beer was a necessary ingredient to the singing that would soon be going on...We stayed to hear the band and singing --- a bit by the tine we left the floor was covered in spilt beer --- and the floor sticks to my feet --- as we walk out of the beergarten.
We arrived back at the hotel and found that this one taxi which held us all and only charged 9.90 Euro -- we sat out on the back steps and visited. It is cool enough to keep my fleece jacket on so it doesn't feel like summer here -- the peonies and early spring flowers bloom --- everywhere. The taxi driver this morning said that they had hail and terrible winds just 15 kilometers from where we were....so I guess it has been unsettled here. I feel disconnected -- without knowing where to look for news or weather.
After we sat listening and watching the kitchen produce vast quantities of food and deliver them on platters to guests -- we saw many tankards of beer leave the place --- and realized that probably beer was a necessary ingredient to the singing that would soon be going on...We stayed to hear the band and singing --- a bit by the tine we left the floor was covered in spilt beer --- and the floor sticks to my feet --- as we walk out of the beergarten.
We arrived back at the hotel and found that this one taxi which held us all and only charged 9.90 Euro -- we sat out on the back steps and visited. It is cool enough to keep my fleece jacket on so it doesn't feel like summer here -- the peonies and early spring flowers bloom --- everywhere. The taxi driver this morning said that they had hail and terrible winds just 15 kilometers from where we were....so I guess it has been unsettled here. I feel disconnected -- without knowing where to look for news or weather.
Friday, May 29, 2009
The Three Country Tour
(Sung to Gilligan's Island theme)
Just sit right back and you'll hear a tale, a tale of a fateful trip.
It started out at Garmisch stadt for a three country trip.
We settled back in our seats totally unaware that the captain of this fateful bus was a yoddler with lots of hair.
Kathy rode shotgun with Bunny by her side
Snapping photos left and right at castles in the sky.
The weather turned from stormy clouds to bright and sunny rays
with Stedel's in the meadows filled up with golden hay
The driver rounded hairpin turns at speeds in excess and
Kathy and Bunny were in deep distress!
Karen sat at the back of the bus blissfully unaware thinking of Lichetenstien and chocolate and eclairs.
Well ---you get the idea we could go on and on -- but it was another wonderful day in which we saw Austria and Switzerland and gave away all our money in Lichtenstein -- where they "take any kind of cash --- Euros, Dollars, or Francs --- but whatever currency you give them they give you change in some other currency making it impossible to know if you got you change back-- Poor Bunny wanted the passport stamped and they charged her two Euros!!
We realized quickly that they way to make money in Europe is to get someone to give you some land and then declare yourself a prince and your land a country!
Maybe that is what Rick Perry -- Gov. of Texas is planning to do! We found that it was a beautiful 28 km across and 8 km wide.
The day was cool and it was downright cold at Greialetche glacier which was at the very top of the tour. I learned today that Germany is trying to save its last Glacier --- on its highest mountain the Zugspitze -- where we were Tuesday. Here is an article about the attempt which we contributed to by ascending the mountain and buying coffee at its top. http://www.dw-world.de/dw/article/0,,2467214,00.html
We saw many beautiful little villages which seem untouched by modernity -- except for the ubiquitous satellite dishes and cars. But they really have done a great job of keeping their heritage in tact despite the numerous tourists.
Almost everyone had little garden plots probably no bigger than our school gardens in which were planted neat rows of lettuces and beans there are big rhubarb plants in the gardens and peas --- it is still quite cold here and the gardens are just going in. You can see little cold frames where people have started there plants early!
The views as we climbed through the Alps were beyond spectacular. They were breathtaking. We also loved the mountain meadows with cattle on the hillsides. Apparently the cows can come up for a couple of months, and the goats are hartier....staying longer into the cold weather. Our tour guide described a shami goat that grows a long beard which is used to make a natural brush know as a shami.. These brushes cost upward of $400! I guess I won't be bringing that back home to Dean for Father's Day or his Birthday.
The waters rushing down the mountain are white with limestone and are fed from the mountain streams. Often waterfalls cascade down perhaps as much as a thousand feed before joining the main river. We saw three different rivers today -The Inn river which goes past Innsbruck, the Rhine of course and the one nearest Garmisch which escapes me at the moment --- it starts with an "L"
Tomorrow we travel to Munich --- then in the evening to Rome.........
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Crazy Ludwig and Counting Swans!
Cool again, and breezy this morning with no rain. The peak of Zugspitze is still shrouded in clouds. We have yet to see its summit even though we were there yesterday! We joined an early tour for the famous Neuschwanstein Castle. It is the most popular castle in Germany with as many as 6000 visitors daily.As with all tours you have to pay your dues and we stopped first at a tourist shop with the standard wood carving, lace, and cow bells. Next we pulled off the road at Wieskirche, ( church in the meadows). Located in the midst of a great alpine meadow in the middle of nowhere it is a most imposing structure which our guide assured us was the highest example existing of a rococo church. The story goes that in 1730, Father Magnus Straub and Friar Lukas Schweiger built a figure of Jesus for the Good Friday procession, using parts from other wooden figures, which they then covered in linen and painted. (they were too poor to have Jesus carved - the story reminded me of a Frankenstein Jesus). Apparently it was such a realistic representation of the suffering Jesus, that the congregation found it too moving and they stored it in an attic. It found its way to a farm, the "Wieshof." During evening prayers on June 14, 1738, its keeper noticed drops of water on Jesus' face, which she interpreted as tears. Following this miracle -- the place was built round it and it has become a pilgrimage spot.
The journey here by bus led us past the turn for Oberamergau and Augsburg on the way to Neuschwanstein Castle. Older local people all have walking sticks that look like ski poles, back packs and hiking boots They are prepared.....The tourist buses line up in long rows and tourists crowd into the church and then cross over to eat fried breads of some kind and other Bavarian treats. After many photos especially of the empty Organ chamber -- I found a sign indicating that the church was resorting it organ --- so for my husband Dean --I contributed 5 Euros to that cause, climbed back onto the bus and we were on our way climbing toward our goal.
The journey here by bus led us past the turn for Oberamergau and Augsburg on the way to Neuschwanstein Castle. Older local people all have walking sticks that look like ski poles, back packs and hiking boots They are prepared.....The tourist buses line up in long rows and tourists crowd into the church and then cross over to eat fried breads of some kind and other Bavarian treats. After many photos especially of the empty Organ chamber -- I found a sign indicating that the church was resorting it organ --- so for my husband Dean --I contributed 5 Euros to that cause, climbed back onto the bus and we were on our way climbing toward our goal.
The great Castle Neuschwanstein can be seen from miles away. It is easy to see why it is the most photographed castle. Built by Ludwig II (the crazy Bavarian king) in honor of his friend Richard Strauss and as a get-away, the castle was begun in the 1869. For the next 17 years it was worked on but even at the King's death it was not completed. It was not until 1969 that the first performance of Wagner took place in the performance hall. The castle was designed by a set designer -- not an architect. This was no surprising because Ludwig loved Opera and when he became king unexpectedly-- the first person he sought out was Richard Wagner -- whose operas he loved. They were operas that gloried in the tales of the Norse gods and goddesses. Across the valley stands a yellow castle which belonged to his father, Maximilian -- and in 1885 he had a telephone installed between the two castles. He only lived in his beloved Neuschwantstein for 172 days --- before he was to be committed. (being judged mentally incompetent. He was not doing his job governing and was spending the treasury on building castles for his entertainment.) On the way to the institution he asked to take a walk and was found the next day in a lake with his dead psychiatrist floating along-side. No one is sure if he killed himself or if he was killed by the government, but just 6 weeks after his death the castle opened as a museum so that the public could help pay the great cost of the structure.
It was still very cool indeed, and I was thankful to borrow Cindy's nice wool sweater from Ireland! We arrived at Neuschwanstein as the sun was breaking through the clouds and took a bus up the steep slope at the base of the castle....but there was still a steep climb to the Maria Bridge from which you can photograph the castle---the bridge goes over a a gorge ---and you can look back at the castle or down at a beautiful waterfall. Then it was back to the trail --and more climbing. We arrived at the castle and immediately had to ascend 89 stairs --- then we were in the servants quarters. Which were quite nice for what they were --- with dark wood everywhere and cradles and beds, tables and candelabras in evidence everywhere. Next we climbed another 64 Stairs to the main quarters of the King.
There is a waterclooset with running water and there is a little basin where he could wash up which featured running cold water. He had a chair for reading, a chair for writing, and a special little chapel just off his quarters-- Everything was covered with dark wood and carvings. The carvings in this chamber took 4 carvers 14 years to complete. It was during this time that we encountered two young visitors who were enthusiastically counting images of swans. After brief introductions --and showing them Westmeady we struck up quite a conversation. They were from Virginia, but were living for three years in Great Britain and they were attending British school rather than American school.
There parents kindly allowed Westmeady to interview the girls to let boys and girls in on the experience of being an American child traveling in many countries. Their count was up to 82 when we entered the dining room next to the chamber, but all the rooms are dark the windows are small so they admit little light. For such a large building the castle has relatively few rooms finished. It seems like the perfect idea to finish the rest as guest rooms for a resort! But much of the castle was never completed.
We climb down what seems like hundreds of stairs and then must walk down a steep hill to get to our destination for lunch and the return bus trip....I am nearly worn out just as we see a horse drawn buggy and hail a ride the rest of the way down. Our seat mates have an Australian shepherd with them and we immediately strike up a conversation. They do well with English and are training this dog to work their two horses. Murphy is very well behaved as all the dogs here seem to be as they join their masters for meals in the restaurants. (Often the owner provides a small bowl for his companion with water and the dogs receive treats for good behavior.
We have lunch -- again trying more Bavarian cuisine -- this time I ordered the potato pancakes with applesauce and shared with Kathy who had a "meat-salat" various cabbages, corn, red beans, bibb lettuce, turkey on a skewer with pineapple - grilled in a vinegar dressing, and Bunny had a turkey sandwich on a wonderful piece of brott --- but the turkey was flavored a bit like the sausage here --- and to me tasted similar to a Bologna. Matt chose spaghetti and we all shared apple struedel and coffee for desert.
The road winding back to the hotel criss-crosses and old trade route...the Via Claudia and we pass through the Austrian Alps before re-entering Germany and finding our way back to the Lodge. Oh, yes, the Swan count? Ultimately they had to estimate 2,220 total!
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Oberamergau and Zugspitze
We sang every show tune that we knew today to the entertainment of the bus on the way back from Oberamergau. Early morning found us boarding the gondola to the top of the tallest mountain in Germany. Bavaria is beautiful -- rather like Switzerland. Water pours down off the mountains in huge waterfalls and rushes past the roadway in great torrents that seem to have a high mineral content for it has a remarkable opacity and white color.It was cold today with the high reaching only to the upper 50s. As we rose into the clouds the sound of ice breaking from the cables and striking the gondola surprised us. There was snow everywhere and it felt very much like winter to me. We could see nothing of the four countries from the summit even though the light was blindingly bright.
We got a cup of hot coffee and waited until we could catch the car on its return trip. There was a little restuarant at the top with lovely white table linnens --- we were the only people there. Most have probably been more prudent in assessing the value of the trip and have gone to other places. It rained and poured yesterday afternoon and this morning the cold and fog have been a deterrant to this tourist site!
In each of these coffee houses there are elegant deserts which look very different from those we are accustomed to in America. They all involve pastry, layers of cream, layers of colorful transparent toppings with various exotic fruits embedded in them. And of course there is the Apple Struedel which is nothing like that which can be purchased at Kroeger. Kathy remained at the bottom of the lift --- and when we returned there was a great hill to ascend to the train which we rode back to Garmisch. The train ride down the mountain was beautiful. We passed meadows with sheep grazing and cows contentedly munching on grass to arrive in Garmisch and find our way to the bus station for the trip to Oberamergau.
This quiant town is the home of the great passion play which occurs every ten years. It was performed as a part of a bargain with God in 1634 -- if God would spare their community the plague -- they would do the passion play once every decade! They have kept their word. The next play will occur in 2010, so everywhere there were men beginning to grow their hair and beards. The town was relatively uncrowded and we enjoyed a fine meal where we were the only people in the restuarant. Germans seem to love their sausage and pig is a big item on the menu along with potatoe dumplings! We walked among shops where there were the traditional tourist things -- but also felted slippers and things you would not find elsewhere. Beautiful hand carvings costing thousands of dollars were next to linnens that were nearly as beautiful.
What I found most interesting was the gardens and I stopped and spoke with several folks who were gardening. Though English was an impediment they were willing to struggle to make themselves understood---and to understand me. One elderly couple especially had a beautiful garden of alpine flowers including edelwise....and also had familiar things like sedum and hens and chicks. They told me that many of the flowers were past their prime, but the garden was clearly lovely.
I passed an elementary school and took pictures of a school garden similar to our own and was sad to see that the children had gone home for the day! We returned to Garmisch to the Edelwise Lodge, the military installation where we have been staying and enjoyed cheese, brot, local tomatoes, and fruits for our light dinner. After dinner there was much laughter as Bunny brought up two friends from my little school mascot, Westmeady the dragon --- We began filming them and laughed several times until we cried over the antics of these little entertaining creatures! I hope the school children find them equally entertaining.
Tomorrow we visit Neuschwanstein Castle!
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Humor, rain, and cowbells
We slept until we woke up -- I guess that means we are all alive! My friends were exhausted from their travels and the late hour that we retired last night. I was exhausted from having only cat naps for 30 hours.Breakfast at this beautiful lodge, built for the military families serving in far-flung regions, was oh-so American with bacon, eggs, pancakes, bisquits, gravy, ham,
country fried potatoes and numerous other choices.... Then we were off to the village of Garmisch to see what we could see....but mostly to relax and to rest for the onslaught of sight seeing scheduled for tomorrow. The town was not crowded, and there were amazingly few cars. Our cabbie arrived in ledehosen and quickly loaded the two wheelchairs in the trunk while three of us squeezed into the back seat. I was the smallest of the three, and we know I am not small...but I squeezed myself into the smallest space I could and we got the doors closed.
I burst into laughter when the first thing Kathy asked about was where we might find lunch! Yes --four fat ladies and all they want is lunch....tears ran down our checks as I recounted how that might have sounded to the fit cabbie in lederhosen. The picture above is our lunch (Kathy and I split this sizeable feast) which also came with red cabbage cooked in a sweet and sour sauce. The two round things are dumplings --- one is made of potatoe and had a gelatinous texture and the other is made of bread which was rather like an overly moist stuffing. The pork was seasoned with something delicious which I didn't recognize and the crispy looking thing on top we surmised was deep fried pig fat.
We watched as other guests were served interesting local cuisine... sausages of vast variety came in bowls of steaming hot water, sausages over sauerkraut which was somewhat milder than the American version -- but also had fat in it, a large ham hock with a good portion of leg attached -- rather like we would have a chicken drumstick was served to that man at the next table! AND there were dogs at dinner with their families!
I asked why we can't have dogs in our restaurants at home. Kathy suggested that it wasn't sanitary. "Well they let the mice and roaches in." suggested Bunny. "Yes, and in Tennessee, I said, you can now take your guns into restaurants and bars." Somehow it seems more sensible to let the dogs in. In fact I suggested that every restaurant have a bull snake to keep the rats down and a gecko to eat the roaches!
Again we were impressed with the friendliness and helpfulness of people who should have been grumpy and tired from all the stupid tourists....but we found only kindness from everyone. We did a bit of shopping and I got back into the wheelchair business as if I had never left it ..Maybe I will have sculpted pectoral muscles when I get home but I will have to stop eating the local faire! When everyone went out for dinner tonight....I stayed behind --- made some coffee and had cheese and apple --- my standard lunch at home --- only this cheese was fabulous --- obviously from the happy cows that we hear on the mountainsides (their cow bells ring out with delightful frequency).
This was the second day of magnificent weather --- cool and sunny----clouding over in the afternoon and then pouring down in torrents -- I got very wet trying to find a green grocer where I could acquire some buttermilk. If you have never had the cheese, butter and buttermilk from this corner of the universe -- I can only say you have never really tasted these delicacies before!
Tomorrow we begin our sightseeing with a trip up Germany's highest mountain, and a visit to Oberammergau. There was the opportunity to go to Dachau....but I don't think I could stand it. As I grow older my heart becomes ever more tender and such hideous atrocities are beyond my ability to maintain myself.
First Stop 'Garmisch
Neuschwanstein castle is just an hour from Garmisch. This is the castle that Disney based Sleeping Beauty's castle on.I arrived in Garmisch at about 11:00 a.m. I was so pleased with myself...that I managed to find the Deutch Bahn (DB) in the airport, buy my ticket, board the train, change trains in Passing, and actually get here. But to say that I got here on my own would be a total falsehood! You see there was a lovly young man on the platform to help me choose the correct train. (They were both the same color and number but going in totally different directions) Then there was a young woman whom I asked the time of --to make sure I had not missed the stop in Passing.
At each step of the journey a kind person has emerged to help -- at Passing I had only 5 minutes between the arrival of my train and the departure of the one to Garmisch. It of course left from a different platform (I arrived on Gleis 2 and had to get to Cleis 3) and there was construciton going on, but I managed to climb down the steep set of stairs at the station to find the stairs for platform 3 and began dragging my one heavy suitcase up the stairs. There are ingenious little conveyor belts alongside the stairs to help with this -- but it was out of commission. A man at least as old as I am grabbed my bag and carried it to the top of the stairs...then turned around and took two of his own to the bottom. He barely gave me a chance to call out Danke and he was gone -- a good samaritan indeed!
Finally on the last leg of the journey a beautiful young woman who had taught in an American College in North Carolina for several years and had returned to get her PhD and was taking a new jog in Munich.
Her mother sat accross from me and we had a great visit. She was an exchange student to the U.S. to (imagine this) Crossville, TN...so I wound up inviting her to visit us when she come back to the U.S. so that she can enjoy Nashville and its many attractions. When it was time for me to get off at Garmisch she even insisted on hefting my bag to the platform for me. During the last leg of the trip, I conscripted her help in getting the man who took the tickets to send information to the station where Kathy was to arrive --- to have her paged at the time of the trains arrival and let her know that I was safely waiting in the train station in Garmisch.
Her mother sat accross from me and we had a great visit. She was an exchange student to the U.S. to (imagine this) Crossville, TN...so I wound up inviting her to visit us when she come back to the U.S. so that she can enjoy Nashville and its many attractions. When it was time for me to get off at Garmisch she even insisted on hefting my bag to the platform for me. During the last leg of the trip, I conscripted her help in getting the man who took the tickets to send information to the station where Kathy was to arrive --- to have her paged at the time of the trains arrival and let her know that I was safely waiting in the train station in Garmisch.
In our discussion - I understood that the train station was in Munich not at the airport -- so I assumed that I needed to get off at the trian station in Munich -- but clearly once the train left we did not pass through Munich at all. So I worried that Kathy would think I was lost (which she did) when she arrived from Paris in Munich and did not find me there. It is easy in America to think that there would only be one set of stations in the town which all trains would pass through ---since AMTRACK only goes through certain places.....but the train is the way of transport in Northern Europe -- You might not even need a care if you have a bike and live within biking(walking) distance of a terminal....
As the day grew longer and no one arrived --I grew more concerned. Yet, I knew that Kathy would have to come through this station, since Garmisch is such a small place....and ultimately around 8 p.m. that is exactly what happened...but not until Dean and Noelle had been alerted that I was missing in Germany....
It was funny to hear Noelle scold me for not letting her know where I was and that I was safe.....Dean, less critical but equally concerned --expressed similar frustration --- why had I not called? I guess the answer is ---I knew where I was!! But in today's world where we communicate via the internet with such ease --- it seems frightening when we are out of touch even for a day! Think of what it might have been like when your child departed on the Oregon trail -- and you might not know anything for months on end about you kin!!!
Leaving on a Jet Plane...
Leaving on a plane is a little like dying! Whatever you got finished before you left is finished. Whatever you left unaccomplished is just that -- incomplete. Just as in death, you are boarding a ship for an unknown journey. You think you know your destination, but things could intervene. The destination might be different somehow than what you imagine --- it might be a surprise!As I boarded the plane (exhausted from putting the library to bed on Friday, packing until 1 or 2 a.m. Friday & Saturday, and tying to tie up all the loose ends before departure) I have a mix of anticipation and sadness. I am leaving behind the familiar, the comfortable, and the predictable. I am leaving behind my family and friends all my routines. But as I settle into my seat next to two German friends who have been vacationing on Longboat Key, Florida, a certain peace pervades my consciousness.
I wonder why I can't extend this peace that things are now out of my hands and control is in the hands of others. In many ways this is the way of it. We cannot control our health, or a criminal's choice to rob or end another's life, or even our circumstances at work. The truth is we can only tack our sails depending on what life gives us. Yet, I know when I return to earth I will take all the of weight of responsibility and worry back as if I did control those things!
Physicist Leo Szilard once announced to his friend Hans Bethe that he was thinking of keeping a diary "I don't intend to publish. I am merely going to record the facts for the information of God." "Don't you think God knows the facts?" Berte asked. "Yes, said Szilard, "He knows the facts, but he doesn't know this version of the facts."
(I found this quote in A short history of everything - the book I was reading on the plane)
So it is that I will begin my "diary" of this trip so that the facts can be recorded from my perspective, in case God is curious! After dinner I note we are 1/3 of the way to Munich. There is a track of the plane superimposed on what appears to be a google map of the earth. We are just about to leave land and begin the transit of the Atlantic just South of Greenland.
People settle in for the night and cabin noise becomes more hushed as the lights of the cabin are dimmed. Plenty of things to distract -- movies on the screen, music in the earphones, newspapers, magazines----just like at home --it is seldom that we see people living in the present moment. What would happen if we did live more intentionally in the present moment?
I find my distraction in Bill Bryson's book "A Brief History of Nearly Everything" which provides a fascinating insight into science and scientists since the 18th century. His writing is a fast moving narrative providing tantalizing details about the lives of people whom we revere as giants. There are characters here which I have children's biographies for -- I am thinking next fall we might do some of these as Lunch Bunch Choices with the details added in this book which humanize the greats in humorous and eccentric ways! I fall asleep and sleep fitfully (it is cramped in steerage, and I know those in 1st class are stretched out on recliners with footies and every need tended!
Dawn floods the space with rose light and we are nearing the end of our journey. Interesting details like the airspeed, temperature outside the cabin, altitude, tail wind were displayed between movies all night long. It was -70 F tail wind averaged 100 miles per hour, speed hovered at 690 mph. We have landed, and all confidence disappears!
Monday, May 18, 2009
When is an aweful teacher wonderful?
Jesse stood in front of the morning news camera reading his research on our Solar System. He had illustrated all of the planets and even some asteroids.
Jesse is the kind of student every teacher dreams of. He has a fine mind which is coupled with a supportive family and enough personal discipline to insure that he can process the information he readily seeks out.
He was on my mind that evening as I looked for colored sidewalk chalk for our Field Day. As I walked down the aisle of school supply store, I passed a display of plastic colorform planets designed to be placed on the wall of a classroom. I couldn't help myself.....I bought them planning to give them to Jesse.
When I got back to school the next day, I realized I had another gift for him. I had purchased a telescope at the Goodwill store for only $5.00. A small refractor, it was far better than Galileo's scope. With it he should be able to see the four largest moons of Jupiter, the rings on Saturn, and fantastic close-ups or the moon's surface.
His parents were at school for field day to receive these gifts with Jesse and all were happy at the joy of such small gifts. But the greatest gift was the one presented me when his mother said, "Do you know when he got interested in all this?" "No," I responded. "It was when you had that fellow come from the Astronomical Society." she said.
I laughed out loud. You see, the very nice man who was an amateur astronomer, a NASA certified instructor, had been way over the heads of my students. I had been embarrassed because much of the material he presented and the questions he asked were beyond the reasoning capacity of early elementary students. The length of the presentation which went long frustrating the teachers in attendance.
Here in front of me was a young mind that had been deeply affected by a presentation that I had written off. It is a great lesson. We cannot judge the influence of each day on our students. One small thing that we do may have a deep and lasting impact for good or ill. I pray that even on my worst days when I am at my most boring, a few seeds of that lesson will fall on fertile ground....like Jesse's.
It is also a lesson of humility, to recognize that while good teaching is important, learning is often not about the quality of teaching. Often the quality of education depends on the desire of the learner. So in a day when "teacher quality" is considered the most important indicator of student achievement, perhaps we need to rethink the complexity and art of the learning interaction.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Experience and knowledge
Last night was a cherished and looked forward to event. Thanks to a dear friend, my husband and I attended a performance of La Boehme by the Nashville Opera.
The performance was
lovely --- NOT cataclysmic --- just lovely. It has been years since I saw this opera. Of course, though I have heard the main arias many times, I had not heard the whole of it in years.
I wept piteously the first time I saw it, but with 40 years stretching between performances I was more jaded. I let my experience be framed by my knowledge of the time in which it was written and my adult understanding of opera as "over dramatic and tragic." I rejoiced in the beauty of trained voices flawlessly executing the runs. I rejoiced in the gift of art as I wondered at the beautiful set. I rejoiced that the people in the orchestra pit had worked very hard to master their craft . I reveled in the beauty of the old ladies who had come in traditional opera garb wearing their very expensive gowns and jewels. I rejoiced in the young couple dressed in garb I recognized from my youth --- probably someone else had given them their tickets ---just as Dean and I had received the gift of ours.
I loved talking to the elderly woman next to me whose son was a Navy Seal in Afghanistan. She wanted to know how I liked Nashville. I asked if she had spent most of her life here --- she thought and replied "Well, let me see how old am I?" I laughed and said, “I can see that this line of questioning might be leading in an unanticipated direction! Let me re-phrase it, and pardon my ambiguity!" Once again I failed the Southern Lady TEST by asking a question that could cause someone embarrassment!!!
On the way home we drove through McDonalds. I chuckled thinking of those around us who had probably gone across the street to the grand old Hermitage Hotel for their post opera discussions!!
Sipping my latte as we traveled homeward, I asked my husband (the music PhD person) about his experience. "I always forget how unsatisfying I find late romantic music." Puzzled, I replied,"What does that mean?" He explained that Puccini and other composers at this time were caught in a vortex (my term not his) where they were all trying to find their way into the next big age of music ---- they were pushing the envelope --trying things out --- harmonies that neither work nor break completely from the old conventions. They were fascinated with what they thought of as Chinese forms. These were really only mostly open 4ths and 5ths and actually were more a caricature of Chinese." He paused and sighed, "and then there is that overwhelming sentimentality to contend with...."
So -- I said, "Did you enjoy the opera?" “Oh yes!” Well there it is --while he was sitting there thinking all these deep thoughts -- I was experiencing the moment and not thinking deeply at all. I wonder how my friend would feel to know that her tickets were wasted on a simpleton and an effete opera snob!!?
The performance was
lovely --- NOT cataclysmic --- just lovely. It has been years since I saw this opera. Of course, though I have heard the main arias many times, I had not heard the whole of it in years.I wept piteously the first time I saw it, but with 40 years stretching between performances I was more jaded. I let my experience be framed by my knowledge of the time in which it was written and my adult understanding of opera as "over dramatic and tragic." I rejoiced in the beauty of trained voices flawlessly executing the runs. I rejoiced in the gift of art as I wondered at the beautiful set. I rejoiced that the people in the orchestra pit had worked very hard to master their craft . I reveled in the beauty of the old ladies who had come in traditional opera garb wearing their very expensive gowns and jewels. I rejoiced in the young couple dressed in garb I recognized from my youth --- probably someone else had given them their tickets ---just as Dean and I had received the gift of ours.
I loved talking to the elderly woman next to me whose son was a Navy Seal in Afghanistan. She wanted to know how I liked Nashville. I asked if she had spent most of her life here --- she thought and replied "Well, let me see how old am I?" I laughed and said, “I can see that this line of questioning might be leading in an unanticipated direction! Let me re-phrase it, and pardon my ambiguity!" Once again I failed the Southern Lady TEST by asking a question that could cause someone embarrassment!!!
On the way home we drove through McDonalds. I chuckled thinking of those around us who had probably gone across the street to the grand old Hermitage Hotel for their post opera discussions!!
Sipping my latte as we traveled homeward, I asked my husband (the music PhD person) about his experience. "I always forget how unsatisfying I find late romantic music." Puzzled, I replied,"What does that mean?" He explained that Puccini and other composers at this time were caught in a vortex (my term not his) where they were all trying to find their way into the next big age of music ---- they were pushing the envelope --trying things out --- harmonies that neither work nor break completely from the old conventions. They were fascinated with what they thought of as Chinese forms. These were really only mostly open 4ths and 5ths and actually were more a caricature of Chinese." He paused and sighed, "and then there is that overwhelming sentimentality to contend with...."
So -- I said, "Did you enjoy the opera?" “Oh yes!” Well there it is --while he was sitting there thinking all these deep thoughts -- I was experiencing the moment and not thinking deeply at all. I wonder how my friend would feel to know that her tickets were wasted on a simpleton and an effete opera snob!!?
Monday, April 06, 2009
A Very Red Shard
This shard of the stained glass window is ruby red. The same ruby red of the red carpet on Oscar night!As with many things we reward children for their hard work and the ultimate successes! Curmudgeons would say that reading is a reward in itself, and I agree. However, for children to reach the point of intrinsic reward we often need a few extrinsic rewards along the way. Reading is complex. It often is difficult and certainly no fun when you are first learning! Which is why I am in favor of what some would call "bribery"!
At our AR Party last Friday children put their stars on the AR Walk of Fame in the Hall. They got individual glamour shots on the RED CARPET where they wore feather boas hats and ties and held a real Addie Award (which one of the parents won)! They sa
t at festive tables and enjoyed treats-- AND they selected a book or toy of their choice -- no one left empty handed!
t at festive tables and enjoyed treats-- AND they selected a book or toy of their choice -- no one left empty handed!It did me good to see the beautiful gowns the little girls wore (last year's Easter dress, or Mama's cocktail dress!) The boys wore their ties and fancy church clothes and suits! We had fun!! Something that is rarer at school than it used to be....
Sunday, March 29, 2009
A Tiny Shard of Earth...
One of the reasons I love stories is that metaphors let us move about flexibly within a larger framework of an idea. It is this need for flexibility and depth that causes me to wrestle with NCLB and its climate which makes teachers focus on discrete facts and skills.While in philosophy I believe that we can teach a child everything s/he needs to know to pass those all important measures by focusing on the big picture, I am also very aware that a child doesn't have the capacity to know that he knows something if the words which surround it are not familiar.
For example, I watched the children, intent as they were, learning how to take a plant from its pot and place it at the proper depth and distance from another plant. They were all equally focused, equally eager, equally engaged and they were learning something they would never forget because it involved them wholly. In education we often refer to the many different learning styles - auditory, visual, kinesthetic, and more - with which a child experiences the world and knowing! The garden involved them all.
But suppose they encounter a question on the test using words they do not know to describe this particular activity. They will have no way to demonstrate mastery! This is the difficulty teachers face as they divide up their year into small bits of time in which they will teach small bits of information, or small skills. If I am not mistaken there are more standards than there is time to teach them in 3rd grade (and probably 4th as well). And now we have heard that next year 2nd graders are to memorize their multiplication tables! (Audible sigh goes here)
For these reasons I am not surprised to find that not all the teachers are rushing to be involved during school hours with the planting of a garden. It is why we planted the garden during spring break -- which meant that only a few kids got to have this wonderful experience!
So I pick up and place this shard of earth-colored glass in my stained glass window which grows every so slowly to make something positive of the broken glass. You see, despite the odds Westmeade now has a garden..... To see more pictures of the garden go to http://www.westmeadees.mnps.org/Page53162.aspx
Monday, March 16, 2009
A Single Shard -- of stained glass and flying fish!
"When do you shelve the books, Ms. McIntyre?" Bushra looked up at me with her twinkling brown eyes through that open and joyful smile! I picked up one shard of glass --- ah yes --- "Bushra, when you come in at the beginning of the day-- when we are getting ready for our WMES Broadcast. (WMES is a morning news broadcast -- another of my responsibilities.) I always have a 4th grader at the circulation desk. That is one of the times I try to shelve books. While you are looking for a book, I am trying to put books away. I also shelve during my lunch break, and after school.""Oh" she said. I continued, providing her with more information than she wanted,"You remember Ms. Margaret who is my friend who comes once a week? Well she helps me shelve books on the day she is here and that really helps. And you know how I put all the Dr. Seuss, Curious George, and Henry and Mudge books in piles on the table? Well, most of the 4th grade news reporters know where those books go and they put them away sometimes before they have to get back to class.
And you remember Nora? She was in 4th grade when you were in Kindergarten? Well she sometimes comes back to visit after she gets home from Middle School and helps put books away....and I've been thinking about training an army of roaches that live in the school....maybe they could learn the basics and I could leave books out for them to put away....(no actdually I didn't say that last part --- but I have always thought that it would be fair -- since we provide them with paper and book binders paste to keep them going....surely they could return the favor).
So what is hopeful about this shard of broken glass? It is simply that somehow despite the fact that I don't have an aide --- the books get shelved. Not to quibble about how well they get shelved. I simply hope that the picture books and non fiction books find their way to the general vacinity of where they belong.
When I came to this library the former librarian didn't actually put them on the shelf in Dewey order --- they were filed according to their AR color. For those of you who don't know what that means -- it is simply that books are marked with a colored sticker to indicate reading level. So in the last 8 years I have succeeded in placing call numbers on all the books as well as marking all the books that have AR tests available with colored stickers! See there is more positive stuff...I just have to pick up each shard and find out where it fits in the overall picture!
How did that happen? Back when I first came to this school -- we still had parent volunteers (there were still many stay-at-home moms) I had a core group that came once a week and affixed the call numbers. There it is! It got done!! That is the first shard of a stained glass masterpiece.
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