Worshipping Athena in Lindos

Up at 5:45 a.m. Our tour was to leave at 7:00 a.m., but actually it left at 7:45 so we could have slept a bit later. We met in the Anchors Aweigh lounge forward and then left the ship by bus for Lindos. The journey took nearly one hour. I couldn't help but think how much this road and the terrain looked like the desert near Kathy's and my childhood home, Victorville, California. But then my eyes would wonder across the road and there was the expanse of Mediterranean sea that was so beautiful.

Our guide, Maria Morava, is excellent and she discussed the history of this area from earliest times until today.
She explained that it rains heavily here from October until May, but from May through the summer rainfall is rare. The Olive tree survives well under this extreme climate and requires no additional water. Until tourism became an industry here life was very difficult indeed. On the way there were many hotels along the beautiful beaches and apparently this is a vacation destination of many Europeans, but Lindos there are no hotels for it is an international historic site and all building must be consistent with the historic old buildings. These were mostly minimalistic squares of white. The bus stopped and we disembarked and caught a shuttle to the old town.

We began the walk almost immediately to the Acropolis. The old religion of the Greeks has things that carry over into the Greek Orthodox world even today. Maria explained that in the Greek Orthodox Church one does not see the alter -- just as in ancient times the alter to the God or Goddess was not viewed by the common people. Maria indicated that the screen with the icons that I have seen in Greek Orthodox chapels sits in front of the alter which is only slightly visible when the priest comes out during the service. June 6th, today is not only D-Day's anniversary, but here on Lindos, it is a day to celebrate the virgin and they offer to the virgin a mixture of wheat, spices, fruit and nuts just as might have been offered to Athena in ancient times. She offered us some which I found very dry but delicious. Just as in ancient times people bring their offerings to God.

When the acropolis was in use these offerings would have included food, flowers, money, jewelry. You would have offered your best. Originally there were no steps up to the Acropolis, but during the 3rd century B.C. the Greeks had colonies all over the known world and much wealth was brought home. At that time the steps we climbed today were added to make access to the temple easier. Though as we climbed them, I did not think they made things easier. They were high, black marble and there are sheer drops on one side of the stairway which is about 5 feet across. I was astounded that there is not a railing on the side that is opposite the mountainside. Partway up women wearing black were unpacking their linens which they hoped to sell to us on our return trip. They had heavy packs that they carried up the steep stairway and they were laying them on the ground where they held them in place with stones carefully placed to expose the beautiful embroidery or cutwork.

It was strenuous and I found that I stopped several times to catch my breath and drink a bit of water. The sun was already blazing down and even though I had a white hat and good stiff breeze I was hot! I couldn't imagine making this hike when the daily temperature reaches 100-110 degrees. This is a typical day in August. Maria pointed out once we reached the summit that there were covered porticoes in ancient times to help keep people cool. She also pointed out the way back to the bus. We must pass the church in order to reach the original destination, and it was easy to get lost in the maze of streets. I hesitate to label them streets. The are so narrow that no cars could pass here, just donkeys and carts. In fact we were offered "taxis." For just 5 euro we could ride a donkey to the top. Donkeys and goats are everywhere in Greece.

Where there were dogs in Athens there are cats on Mykanos and Rhodes. As we continued up to the actual sanctuary, a mother cat ascended the stairs in front of us. She had something large in her mouth and was calling to her kittens to come to dinner. None of these cats looks like American cats --- they are all skinny and look pretty unhealthy, but even though it is clear that the mother was herself very hungry -- like a good mother she fed her babies first!

Just when I thought Matt and I had reached the top -- there was another set of stairs in front of us. Matt stayed right with me, Kathy sent him to accompany me to keep me safe.....hmmm this certainly made me feel very old! Once on the top we were treated to amazing vistas in every direction. Throughout the temple area are many blocks of marble with footprints. These were the bases of many statues which are now in foreign museums. Maria described how this temple to Athena would have appeared in the 3rd century B.C. It was build out of sandstone blocks which were fitted together without mortar. This made it possible for the stones to shift without falling during seismic events! The columns had round holes in the center stones where the Greeks put cypress poles between two column stones to help hold them top of together - one on top of another. So if they were shaken down it was easy enough to re-assemble them.

At the beginning of the last century archaeologists thought they would reconstruct the building using concrete as mortar and rebar to hold the columns. What happened in 1957 when there was a great quake -- was that the archaeologists learned why the ancients used the materials they did! Isn't it amazing when we think we have everything figured out and feel superior to the past --- we are often humbled.

After some time at the top we headed down the hillside arriving at the bus just in time to leave. Kathy was perky and energetic having enjoyed several coffees in the cool tavernas at the city center. Matt and I were pretty well done in! When we arrived back at the ship I really wanted to wash up before we went out -- but as soon as I got cooled off -- we headed for the old town in Rhodes where we had a marvelous meal at a restaurant just past the ruins of an ancient church. We shared a Greek Salad and a combination plate that had a stuffed pepper, domaki, moussaka, and that unique cucumber and yogurt dip with cucumbers.... Matt had spaghetti.....Then we had a Greek dessert that was a cross between a cake and a cream. The cafe had free internet so I was able to upload my blog, check out my email clear some of it out---

We walked around several streets of the old town and I found some glue to fix my shoe! Back at the ship we showered and napped a bit before dinner. It is odd to eat so late. I enjoyed the sushi bar tonight for dinner. Off to bed and tomorrow we will visit Ephesus. Seems appropriate it is Sunday and it is a perfect day to contemplate Paul.