Speaking to the Ephesians

In these waters we were able to pull in Aljazeera T.V. So we began to watch news from this perspective. I must say that I found much of their reporting to be as Fox says "fair and balanced." There was a story about a madras which was !forcing Muslim children to beg during the day to help pay for the school. It was an unflattering account. A report that Iranians are using Satellite dishes which are not accepted by the government-- villages that have only had electricity for three years are now using the dish to learn about the rest of the world and this is a big problem to the government, and parents who think it wastes children's time and distracts them from spreading Islam and studying the Koran!

Sounds like my Mom when we got our first T.V. when I was 7 years old. She was worried that it would distract us from getting an education. We see people challenging their government based on the fact that they are not able to get information and news or good educational television from the government run t.v. stations. Hmmm....I really think we would benefit from seeing this channel! I will have to see if we can get it at home. The next program about Lebanon found the reporter grilling one of the people in the Hezbollah-Led coalition -- and I do mean grilling! He was obviously angry when the reporter continued to point out that Hezbollah has been a disruptive force and one that has caused much ill. This was not a perspective I expected from Aljazeera.

We left this morning for Ephesus. Everyone aboard ship was going on this tour and even though we went down early -- there was a line extending clear back through the casino. We finally got our bush number and headed off ship. The Ship now sails with a Turkish flag a beautiful red with the crescent and star. Our bus was immaculate. The driver had things organized very neatly and obviously took great pride in his bus. He wore a white shirt and tie. The tour guide, Tan, explained that he has not done a tour for 12 years, but one of the traditions here regards being a Godfather. His friend who would have been our tour guide had his first baby this morning, and so he will work for him today. All the money that he would earn, he explained, will go to this young family. Then Tan told us some of the other traditions. He was happy that the child was a boy. With a boy he only has to pay for the circumcision of the child which will happen in the next couple of days as Turks believe a baby doesn't feel pain yet! If it had been a girl the cost of her dowry would have run him about $25,000.

Tan got his B.A. in the U.S. at Gainesville, Florida in Art History. He later got his PhD in Istanbul focusing on Turkish carpet making which is one of the major traditions of Turkey and has been part of his family's business for centuries. He now has his own school for carpet weavers, taking young tribal women who easily fall into prostitution without some intervention. His hope is that they can preserve the beautiful artistic tradition and give them this trade. His family has been involved in the textile business (one of his uncles lived in U.S. for 45 years) learning and then producing denim. So he saw an opportunity to start a school for these girls teaching ancient weaving arts. His girls wove the presidential carpet when Bill Clinton visited and the Clintons have been interested in the school. As we passed by it he had one of the girls hang a red carpet outside so we could see it.

He pointed out as we journeyed along that the main industry in Turkey is cotton farming, in addition to tourism. At present you could buy a beautiful seaside condo for $180,000 U.S. Dollars -- but he expects this to skyrocket when they join the European Union. He clearly supports this move, but indicates that it will be difficult at first.

Tan told us about the Muslim Culture, with its inherent hospitality and emphasized that interplay of Jewish, Christian and Muslim culture in Turkey. He explained the fact that Ataturk (whose statue graces the harbor) brought secular society to Turkey in 1923 and the three religions have existed here in relative peace. He himself has a Jewish sister-in-law and his nieces are being raised as Jews. He went out of his way to explain that not all Muslims are radical as we may believe.

Our first stop is the house of the Virgin Mary. According to Catholic tradition Mary spent her last years in Turkey and apparently St. Katherine(stigmata) apparently believed after a dream that she had found the spot and got the church to sponsor rebuilding the site in the early 18th century. So as we walk through what we see is not 3rd century Greek building, but it is what they thought it would have been. A monk welcomed us and it was hushed inside. We were not to take pictures. As we exited there was a place to light candles. The whole spot is high atop a mountain and the air was very cool. The building was surrounded by beautiful flowers -- the roses were especially lovely. Here things were not dry. As we drove down to Ephesus the terrain looked very much like parts of California with citrus orchards on the mountainsides, but the closer we come to the ancient city the drier it appears...

We reached the city and disembarked from the bus. It seemed unreal to find myself in the city where Paul spoke and to think of being able to read Ephesians with new eyes -- thinking of these stones and wondering if I stepped on one where the Apostle himself stood -- moves me. The people here are incredibly hospitable. It has been typical everywhere that at the conclusion of a tour there is a gauntlet of shops and peddlers selling local wares. As Matt and I walked down toward the bus, a peddler approached selling spices. I had left my purse on the bus and thought it the simplest things to say --- I had no money. When I said this the peddler simply gave me a packet of Saffron. I protested, but he insisted I take it. Where else might this happen? Anyone who comes will have their preconceived notions about the Muslims turned on its ear. The bus driver had a small step stool which made it easier for her to climb into the bus. Tan made sure that she was accommodated and when we left I fluffed her hair and we ditched the chair as Bunny had instructed. Apparently a young man made a pass at her while we were gone. He explained that age is unimportant in relationships. He took Kathy to meet his cousins who ran a number of stands at the market. While we were on the walking tour of this fabulous site Kathy was able to buy a number of items she had hoped to find. She was waiting in comfort at the end of our tour having had some coffee in a local cafe.

Matt and I were treated to an excellent historical presentation by Tan. He pointed out that excavation here is an ongoing. Just 10 years ago much of that which we saw was still underneath the surface. He explained that the three columns just next to us were uncovered last year at an expense of 6 million. He was quick to thank Ericcson, Boston University, New York Metropolitan Museum and British Museum for the money that they kick in to the purpose of excavation. Tan explains who the river deposited silt into the bay and ultimately the area became a swamp which meant that there was malaria and other mosquito borne diseases-- which meant that the city was ultimately abandoned --- of course seismic activity was another reason for the abandonment of the city. But this city was a great trading center for centuries from around 3 b.c. until the destruction by earthquake several centuries after Christ.

Tan also pointed out other interesting things like the sewer pipe which was exposed --- it measured the same size as a modern American sewer pipe for a city this size! The gauge on train tracks is the same as the measure of the distance between the wheels of a standard Roman cart! He pointed out as did our guide in Lindos that many of the things that were done thousands of years ago remain largely unchanged today. Even the news on Aljazeera about Lebanese Elections spoke to this. In Lebanon people must travel to the city of origin to vote ((just like Mary and Joseph - traveling to point of origin for census!).

Tan was careful to put us in the shade whenever he stopped to tell us about various spots. It was a stroke of good luck to have the baby born today!! He always pointed out the best vantage point for photos. When we arrived at the amphitheater we passed the library which was undergoing reconstruction.. Tan explained that the library originally had 3 floors to it, and included an underground passage to the bordello across the street --- so that men could tell their wives they were going to the library and then enjoy one of the prostitutes from the city. Another interesting feature is a blue crane. Apparently, when Sting performed here to benefit the excavations and reconstruction -- so many people were jumping up and down that they cracked an important support in the Colosseum! So now it is being repaired.

Everywhere along the path were hollyhocks and red poppies, sedums blooming, and clover. The pomegranate trees are in bloom, and we have learned that this tree is an important symbol of fertility in this region. It is interesting to see in this part of the world what happens to hibiscus, pomegranates and other shrubs that I have seen in the U.S. I suppose that since it doesn't ever freeze in these countries things that are only bushes at home turn into real trees. On Mykanos I saw a Hibiscus with a trunk that was 6 inches thick and the blooms and leaves were overhead! This is true as well with pomegranates. Cats wandered the ruins here too, and one of the French-Canadians shrieked as one of them brushed up against her. The sun continued to bear down on us and perspiration began to form on my brow. When we returned to the bus I drank most of the water provided for me at the beginning of the trip. Our bus was airconditioned, and soon were on the way to lunch at a beautiful 5 star resort hotel on the mountainside overlooking the bay.

We were treated to a variety of Turkish foods featuring cucumbers, eggplant, lamb, chicken, fabulous deserts and many vegetables -- olives are served in oil with orange slices. Lots of dill and yogurt are present in refreshing abundance, and then there are the deserts --- Baklava, of course, but also many very light souffle like custards, and cakes that are very creamy, in addition to creme puffs and other European delights. We were asked not to drink anything with ice or water while we were on the mainland of Turkey --- but that has been true also in Greece --- I forgot that admonition and had the iced Greek coffee in Mykanos and seem to be fine and we ate lots of local very delicious veggies.
I certainly am well fed on this trip --- at least this part of it --- though of course, I am walking a great deal. So I hope that I am being reasonable trying to take small helpings, but I am tasting many new things. Last night I chose the Sushi option at dinner, and that was delightful.

Following our meal we headed back onto the bus and went to a Carpet making establishment where they explained how the carpets are made. The wools, silks and cottons are all dyed with vegetable dyes as they have been in ancient times. They offered us various drinks (I choose apple tea -- a local specialty). Matt was the only person in the entire group to try to local liquor drink Raki -- which is about 50% alcohol--He was a bit unsteady at the end but very happy! One of the workers as they rolled out the carpets was able to toss them into the air to make them into true flying carpets. One of the round ones was easily spun pizza-style!
Following the presentation we were descended upon by salespeople. This was something that we found in the markets where shop keepers besieged us. People worked the crowd and really pursued you to get you into their shops. It is not an easy life --- I am sure. Matt found a cafe where there was Wi-Fi and we sat and had some water, coke and coffee, and Kathy and I walked among the shops --- There are beautiful leather goods, jewelry, and many pashmina shawls and clothes. We returned to the ship and set sail around 5:00 p.m.
Tomorrow is a sea day and the day after we will arrive in Egypt.