We got up at about 7:00 a.m.-- the church bells of Rome awakened me! We went down for a breakfast of cereal and juice as well as a couple of pastries with cheese or some packaged biscuits. I love the way they serve food in Europe. There is always linen on the table and always china --- no plastic. An older lady brought a pot of coffee to the table with a cream pitcher filled with frothy hot milk. After breakfast Matt and I went in search of an Internet connection which was reputed to be at a laundry...which we found open.. but the man who was there clearly didn't want to deal with us and told us the connection was next door -- which was a dry cleaners. The door was locked, however you could see him through an open door in the establishment -- they were one and the same! Her are some observations about Italy.
1)Many people are not interested in assisting you....which I translate to mean that they do not need tourists -- they have plenty. (Turkey and Egypt need tourists and they were very helpful and attentive.
2) If they don't want to deal with you they feign inability to understand any English.
3) If they want to appear to be helpful they are willing to supply you with information which may have no relation to reality.
4) The cab drivers are willing to drive you around many streets to give you an opportunity to see the city always for an interesting charge at the end. One even tried to charge us for the amount of luggage we had put in his boot.
The hotels we have had often do not conform to what Kathy specified. For instance here she over payed for the taxi because we were supposed to be close to the Piazza Navonna or the Campo di Fiori....however we discovered we were only two blocks from the train station. The hotels in Rome both have had small rooms in odd shapes. Probably because they are retrofitted older buildings. This is a clean nice hotel - Mariano on the Plaza --Manfredo. The area around the hotel is mostly inhabited by Asians and some arabs. Lots of graffiti suggests that this is not a great neighborhood -- which is why we waited until this morning to try for Internet. While we were on the way to the taxi last night one of the gay revellers tried to sit in Kathy's wheel chair --- he was drunk and she had her had in the chair giving Matt a break. The drunk gay guy gestured and spoke to her hat and then started to sit down while taking a sip from his bottle of beer. Matt hailed the taxi at just this moment -- which was nice for us! I will forever have the images of the goth Christ pulling a rock with mirrored cross and red bloody hands sticking out of the rock, and the Virgin Mary in Drag pulling his/her own cloud with a rainbow attached! This was not the image of the Piazza Navona I remember from the past but I think Matt thought this was GREAT FUN and probably enjoyed it more than he would have the old Piazza with just the fountains and beautiful Italian music on stringed instruments.
We walked to the train station and caught the train to Venice. Eurostar is quite nice. Much cleaner than TrenItalia. It is faster, more reliable, and air conditioned. We waited in the Eurostar lounge --- a frosted glass enclosure with comfortable seating in its waiting room and wi-fi sign. Unfortunately we are not dressed up (most Italians it seems dress really well) so one of the employees came over and asked to see our tickets. We proved we deserved to be there no matter how things looked! I tried to connect to the Wi-Fi and failed so I went back to the desk person and asked how to connect. They did not know --Internet has been frustrating. I have not been able to connect to unsecured networks --and very few places have it cheaply enough to connect.
The Plaza Hotel in Venice Maestre was directly across from the train station --- such a blessing --- no taxi worries and an easy walk. My arms are sore from wagging luggage about. We will have to figure out a way to send a lot of this stuff back with Matt when he leaves at the end of the week, as I don't think I can manage dragging my bag and pushing the chair at the same time --- we will have to experiment...but I have faith we will find a way. After depositing our luggage and washing up we caught the train into Venice --- found a water bus (there are water taxis which are smaller boats and then their are larger ones that stop a bit more frequently -- like a city bus.)
We crossed the two bridges (the second - the bridge of sighs) and were surprised to find one had a ramp---don't ask why only one bridge had a ramp -- but we were happy to see it. Well, maybe not Matt -- it was quite an incline. We passed the Ducal Palace (which had been cleaned since I was here last) and found the stone a beautiful pink, turned the corner and there was San Marco glittering in the sun. The gold leaf on the frescoes was especially beautiful. We found a cafe and had some gellato, parked Kathy on the square and Matt and I began our exploration and attempt to find a Pinocchio puppet. Sadly most of them were way beyond the limit of about $30 euro that Peggy(a teacher friend) had set.....then after a couple of hours of wondering we found a shop with the perfect Pinocchio at just exactly 30 euro -- but alas the store was closed --- It was after all Sunday! Tired and hot we finally found our way through the maze of streets and bridges back to the square and Kathy. She had successfully found what she was looking for and we went into a place to eat. I have yet to have a bad meal in Italy! I had a salad, cannelloni, and house wine -- which was quite good. Matt had the best Pizza of his life --- thanks to the fact that Kathy couldn't eat the whole one herself and Matt had a Risotto dish. As we sat in this restaurant with its flat screen T.V. blaring rock music I could hear first the bells of San Marco and then singing on the square. The church itself was closed, so Matt didn't get to see this most impressive structure from the inside, but they had set up an alter on the square earlier.
I left Matt and Kathy deep in discussion and went to the procession on the square. Today was Corpus Domini Day (I think) at any rate there was a fabulous parade with chant and many clerics dressed in beautiful garb followed by nuns and then the faithful --- censors broadcast incense and candles were carried aloft in the light of early evening---it was a most moving experience....and yes, DEAN I GOT THE BULLETIN-- I was moved to tears. We spent the rest of the evening finding a water bus back and then the proper train and this time we had reserved an assistant ahead to meet us at the train and escort us across the tracks. Unfortunately this hapless luggage handler had not had much experience with wheelchairs so Kathy was treated to an amusement ride over the tracks. (3 sets of three tracks each) and on the last track he fell under the chair but Matt was there to keep Kathy from going over onto him ---- it is amusing only in retrospect.... The Plaza Hotel is a 4 STAR and is beautiful. LARGE ROOMS....fabulous breakfast including lots of American foods and of course --- the standard linen and china....and lovely local eggs and fresh fruits.
Monday, June 15, 2009
From Luxury to Reality
Had Kathy felt better we could have taken a free shuttle and then walked four blocks to the train station. Instead it cost 20 Euro for the cab to the train station Although she is better this morning she clearly doesn't feel up to to great a challenge. When we arrived at the station we learned that we would need a train that says Roma T (Rome is the terminus). AND in addition we needed one that doesn't require Kathy to walk any stairs. These train stations require you to climb down about 40 stairs then once underground you choose the track you need and climb the 30-40 stairs back up to your platform.
There were several trains that showed Roma T -- but all were on platforms that required the stair climbing feat. I sought out a man who was wearing a police (I assume it was police) uniform. I asked if he spoke any English to which he indicated a little. I was able to convey what we needed (a lift) by gesturing to Kathy --- and he said no lift -- I pointed to the tracks indicating perhaps a crossing --- no crossing. So we will need to wait for about 90 minutes to catch a train that will use track one.
What struck me was his manner -- there was no joy in Civitiavechia today for this fellow. What a contrast from the people who were eager to help you on the ship. As I watched several trains come and go --- it was clear to me that the step onto the train would be a challenge for her today. I once again sought out the officer. I wanted to see if perhaps we could manage a step stool for her to ease her step onto the train. As I approached him --- before I said anything --he said in his most exasperated voice - "I told-a you already" I tried to explain this was a different question. With my sweetest smile (it would work better if I were 20 or 30) again gesturing to show him my concern about the steep step up onto the train.... but it was clearly a futile effort. He was tired of these touristas and their wealthy relations....OR -- maybe he had just found out his job had been cut, or his wife left him or his dog died. Whatever his situation he was not going to be of much assistance to anyone today.....unless perhaps they were Italian -- in which case they would not need him.
I hope that by the time we reach Rome Kathy is feeling much improved since she had hoped to repeat our trek from the Spanish steps down to the Pantheon and then to the Trevi fountain and on to the Piazza Navona for dinner next to one of the great fountains.
The train station is a sea of people from the various ships which were docked returning from the vacation of your dreams. Most of these folks have a lot luggage, because unlike us, they have been on these tours before. They knew that you have lots of opportunities to dress formally and wear your jewelry and look beautiful after a trip to the spa and beauty salon on board. We on the other hand, had as little luggage as possible....since on the rest of the trip we are dragging our luggage about. Kathy packed a hard drive which weighs a ton and some other electronic equipment -- that I think we will send back with Matt next week, since I do not want to mess with that additional bag -- I think we can down load all her film onto the hard drive of her computer if she winds up taking too much footage --- but I don't think that she will have that much....we have a total between us of one rolling bag(mine) - one duffle bag - hers - a document bag, an electronics bag (hopefully to go home.) One bag that is her purse, one bag that has water and other things in it....and then Matt has his bags --- so when he leaves --- I have to be able to manage all our bags and the wheel chair...so I will be working on mastering this and paring down over the next few days of train travel.
When we came in 2003 we were with a tour where they tended your luggage faithfully....so when we took excursions away from them ---- they had our luggage and I only had the chair and our hand luggage to manage. This is different , but I think totally manageable.
Italian train stations are a bit dingy -- but they look pristine in comparison to what we saw in Egypt. One of the people on the tour to Luxor said that their guide explained that at present there is no garbage collection as there is in many countries --- so disposal of trash is really problematic. We know that many Americans find it quite convenient to toss trash onto the ground -- it is just that we also have folks who go around cleaning up after them and of course we also have garbage collected.....so I am not so sure that we should be entirely superior on this issue. The guide also indicated that they were beginning to teach people in schools about the importance of saving their national treasures and preserving the environment. But given the issues with water they are going to need a great deal of help.
A train pulled into the station --- I figured it was the 9:17 train --- it was 9:17 but in Italy time seems to fold on itself. Our train was supposed to leave at 9:41, but typical of Italy -- it turned out that this was the train...Kathy came and got me and and we got on and then waited until about 9:55 before whatever the train it was actually left the station. And that was after the lights flickered on and off several times in the cabin. This was the signal that the train had broken down before, so we were beginning to think we would have to disembark and take another train. When the lights came on and the train actually started to move the passengers cheered! Apparently that kind of thing is not uncommon.
We arrived in Rome at about 2:00 p.m. and got a taxi for our hotel which was very close to the beautiful old church the Santa Maria Maggiore. It turned out our Taxi Driver thought --- that we were inexperienced travelers. When he delivered us --- he tried to charge Kathy 32.20 Euro ---but she wasn't having any of that --- When she took his cab number and company he sang a different tune and she only had to pay 14 Euro. Later when we returned from the Piazza Navona -- we discovered that our hotel was only two blocks from the train station! The taxi driver had taken us all around Robin Hoods Barn and back again to make us think it was far away!
After we deposited our bags at the hotel we walked to a cafe across from the old church. Kathy and I had ham and cheese Paninni and Matt had Spaghetti. We ended our meal with gellato -- I had lemon and mat had chocolate and creme. After that treat we crossed the street and entered the Santa Maria Maggiore which in which Bernini lies entombed (I am not sure of this and would have to check my facts to be sure) It was absolutely beautiful --- there was a miniature of the Bernini alter there and stunning mosaics, gold leaf, frescoes, and to top everything off---it is a working church as mass was going on there.....crowds of tourists and only a handful of worshipers.
The fountain was being used as a place to cool off and a young man was letting his dogs romp there. We returned to our hotel and caught a taxi to the Forum. When we arrived we took a guided tour (something I had not done last time) It was surprisingly cool --in the shade. Of course the Romans laid the city out so that the breezes pass through the streets -- of course that means that the streets are laid out like a drunken sailor had left bread crumbs for the construction crew!
One of the benefits of the tour was to have a picture with a Roman Gladiator so our I got one with our school mascot being held at knife point --- hmmm--- maybe not the best image for the kids --- I may have to think about that! Kathy forgot her camera so after the Colosseum and the Palantine we wanted to head back to the hotel, but when we flagged down a cab the driver spoke rapid Italian while putting his hand to his head. He said -- "impossible" of course we couldn't figure out why it was impossible. We walked toward the Piazza Navona -- finally stopping for a drink at a cafe. It was a blessing to be under a canopy of green leaves in a gentle cooling breeze. Matt and I regrouped and after about 30 minutes we headed back out onto the street.
We walked and hailed a second cab who repeated the "impossible" -- We had noticed that the police were everywhere out in force, and had heard someone mention a Gay Pride Parade -- Dense Americans finally put two and two together and asked the cabby if he could take us to the Spanish Steps...which was a yes.
We took lots of pictures of Matt at the Steps where he found a cute babe -- unfortunately she was connected! As we walked down to the Trevi Fountain I was looking forward to a memory -- my memory of the 4th of July dinner we shared there in 2003 when Kathy got out her clock and we were nearly thrown out of the restaurant!
As we got to the Pantheon I was determined to get in. It was closed last time....for some reason. This time we couldn't go in because they were having mass. We were able to look in -- but my photos didn't come out because of the contrast of light to dark. So we went on to the Piazza. As we got nearer the noise level increased and when we entered the Piazza it was clear that the Gay Rights Parade was concluding here!
So here we had dinner at an elegant restaurant while the most bizarre parade was in front of us...everyone was blowing whistles, a drum corps accompanied the marchers and then the rock music started punctuated by speeches -- obviously angry in Italian --- which of course made it seem even angrier. I ordered two glasses of red wine - one for Matt and one for me to accompany our pasta. The waiter returned with them plus one white --- which I told him we did not order --- then the head waiter came and insisted that we ordered it and he could not change the order --- Unlike Kathy I am not aggressive so I just gave in. I think these waiters are able to understand a great deal and feign ignorance and bully people into whatever they want to give you. So far this has happened three times in Italy --- our order doesn't always reflect what we requested. Matt had a great time taking pics of the Gay marchers.... Finally we gave up on ever getting the Piazza back and we started walking looking for a Taxi Station.
We have learned that you can't hail a cab in Roma-- you must go to a taxi station --- we were just two blocks from one -- when Matt boldly risked life and limb to hail us one and we got back to our hotel safe and sound and late! I showered a second time to get the grit and grim from my skin. I stopped wearing make-up when we hit Italy before and I haven't put anymore on since --- it just melts in the Mediterranean sun...I started writing this -- but found myself nodding off...So it completed today's entry this morning. Here at club Eurostar in the train station. So for thse few entries --- which I have not had any time to reflect and edit --please forgive!!
There were several trains that showed Roma T -- but all were on platforms that required the stair climbing feat. I sought out a man who was wearing a police (I assume it was police) uniform. I asked if he spoke any English to which he indicated a little. I was able to convey what we needed (a lift) by gesturing to Kathy --- and he said no lift -- I pointed to the tracks indicating perhaps a crossing --- no crossing. So we will need to wait for about 90 minutes to catch a train that will use track one.
What struck me was his manner -- there was no joy in Civitiavechia today for this fellow. What a contrast from the people who were eager to help you on the ship. As I watched several trains come and go --- it was clear to me that the step onto the train would be a challenge for her today. I once again sought out the officer. I wanted to see if perhaps we could manage a step stool for her to ease her step onto the train. As I approached him --- before I said anything --he said in his most exasperated voice - "I told-a you already" I tried to explain this was a different question. With my sweetest smile (it would work better if I were 20 or 30) again gesturing to show him my concern about the steep step up onto the train.... but it was clearly a futile effort. He was tired of these touristas and their wealthy relations....OR -- maybe he had just found out his job had been cut, or his wife left him or his dog died. Whatever his situation he was not going to be of much assistance to anyone today.....unless perhaps they were Italian -- in which case they would not need him.
I hope that by the time we reach Rome Kathy is feeling much improved since she had hoped to repeat our trek from the Spanish steps down to the Pantheon and then to the Trevi fountain and on to the Piazza Navona for dinner next to one of the great fountains.
The train station is a sea of people from the various ships which were docked returning from the vacation of your dreams. Most of these folks have a lot luggage, because unlike us, they have been on these tours before. They knew that you have lots of opportunities to dress formally and wear your jewelry and look beautiful after a trip to the spa and beauty salon on board. We on the other hand, had as little luggage as possible....since on the rest of the trip we are dragging our luggage about. Kathy packed a hard drive which weighs a ton and some other electronic equipment -- that I think we will send back with Matt next week, since I do not want to mess with that additional bag -- I think we can down load all her film onto the hard drive of her computer if she winds up taking too much footage --- but I don't think that she will have that much....we have a total between us of one rolling bag(mine) - one duffle bag - hers - a document bag, an electronics bag (hopefully to go home.) One bag that is her purse, one bag that has water and other things in it....and then Matt has his bags --- so when he leaves --- I have to be able to manage all our bags and the wheel chair...so I will be working on mastering this and paring down over the next few days of train travel.
When we came in 2003 we were with a tour where they tended your luggage faithfully....so when we took excursions away from them ---- they had our luggage and I only had the chair and our hand luggage to manage. This is different , but I think totally manageable.
Italian train stations are a bit dingy -- but they look pristine in comparison to what we saw in Egypt. One of the people on the tour to Luxor said that their guide explained that at present there is no garbage collection as there is in many countries --- so disposal of trash is really problematic. We know that many Americans find it quite convenient to toss trash onto the ground -- it is just that we also have folks who go around cleaning up after them and of course we also have garbage collected.....so I am not so sure that we should be entirely superior on this issue. The guide also indicated that they were beginning to teach people in schools about the importance of saving their national treasures and preserving the environment. But given the issues with water they are going to need a great deal of help.
A train pulled into the station --- I figured it was the 9:17 train --- it was 9:17 but in Italy time seems to fold on itself. Our train was supposed to leave at 9:41, but typical of Italy -- it turned out that this was the train...Kathy came and got me and and we got on and then waited until about 9:55 before whatever the train it was actually left the station. And that was after the lights flickered on and off several times in the cabin. This was the signal that the train had broken down before, so we were beginning to think we would have to disembark and take another train. When the lights came on and the train actually started to move the passengers cheered! Apparently that kind of thing is not uncommon.
We arrived in Rome at about 2:00 p.m. and got a taxi for our hotel which was very close to the beautiful old church the Santa Maria Maggiore. It turned out our Taxi Driver thought --- that we were inexperienced travelers. When he delivered us --- he tried to charge Kathy 32.20 Euro ---but she wasn't having any of that --- When she took his cab number and company he sang a different tune and she only had to pay 14 Euro. Later when we returned from the Piazza Navona -- we discovered that our hotel was only two blocks from the train station! The taxi driver had taken us all around Robin Hoods Barn and back again to make us think it was far away!
After we deposited our bags at the hotel we walked to a cafe across from the old church. Kathy and I had ham and cheese Paninni and Matt had Spaghetti. We ended our meal with gellato -- I had lemon and mat had chocolate and creme. After that treat we crossed the street and entered the Santa Maria Maggiore which in which Bernini lies entombed (I am not sure of this and would have to check my facts to be sure) It was absolutely beautiful --- there was a miniature of the Bernini alter there and stunning mosaics, gold leaf, frescoes, and to top everything off---it is a working church as mass was going on there.....crowds of tourists and only a handful of worshipers.
The fountain was being used as a place to cool off and a young man was letting his dogs romp there. We returned to our hotel and caught a taxi to the Forum. When we arrived we took a guided tour (something I had not done last time) It was surprisingly cool --in the shade. Of course the Romans laid the city out so that the breezes pass through the streets -- of course that means that the streets are laid out like a drunken sailor had left bread crumbs for the construction crew!
One of the benefits of the tour was to have a picture with a Roman Gladiator so our I got one with our school mascot being held at knife point --- hmmm--- maybe not the best image for the kids --- I may have to think about that! Kathy forgot her camera so after the Colosseum and the Palantine we wanted to head back to the hotel, but when we flagged down a cab the driver spoke rapid Italian while putting his hand to his head. He said -- "impossible" of course we couldn't figure out why it was impossible. We walked toward the Piazza Navona -- finally stopping for a drink at a cafe. It was a blessing to be under a canopy of green leaves in a gentle cooling breeze. Matt and I regrouped and after about 30 minutes we headed back out onto the street.
We walked and hailed a second cab who repeated the "impossible" -- We had noticed that the police were everywhere out in force, and had heard someone mention a Gay Pride Parade -- Dense Americans finally put two and two together and asked the cabby if he could take us to the Spanish Steps...which was a yes.
We took lots of pictures of Matt at the Steps where he found a cute babe -- unfortunately she was connected! As we walked down to the Trevi Fountain I was looking forward to a memory -- my memory of the 4th of July dinner we shared there in 2003 when Kathy got out her clock and we were nearly thrown out of the restaurant!
As we got to the Pantheon I was determined to get in. It was closed last time....for some reason. This time we couldn't go in because they were having mass. We were able to look in -- but my photos didn't come out because of the contrast of light to dark. So we went on to the Piazza. As we got nearer the noise level increased and when we entered the Piazza it was clear that the Gay Rights Parade was concluding here!
So here we had dinner at an elegant restaurant while the most bizarre parade was in front of us...everyone was blowing whistles, a drum corps accompanied the marchers and then the rock music started punctuated by speeches -- obviously angry in Italian --- which of course made it seem even angrier. I ordered two glasses of red wine - one for Matt and one for me to accompany our pasta. The waiter returned with them plus one white --- which I told him we did not order --- then the head waiter came and insisted that we ordered it and he could not change the order --- Unlike Kathy I am not aggressive so I just gave in. I think these waiters are able to understand a great deal and feign ignorance and bully people into whatever they want to give you. So far this has happened three times in Italy --- our order doesn't always reflect what we requested. Matt had a great time taking pics of the Gay marchers.... Finally we gave up on ever getting the Piazza back and we started walking looking for a Taxi Station.
We have learned that you can't hail a cab in Roma-- you must go to a taxi station --- we were just two blocks from one -- when Matt boldly risked life and limb to hail us one and we got back to our hotel safe and sound and late! I showered a second time to get the grit and grim from my skin. I stopped wearing make-up when we hit Italy before and I haven't put anymore on since --- it just melts in the Mediterranean sun...I started writing this -- but found myself nodding off...So it completed today's entry this morning. Here at club Eurostar in the train station. So for thse few entries --- which I have not had any time to reflect and edit --please forgive!!
Friday, June 12, 2009
Corfu and the last day....aboard..
We used tender boats to go on shore These are smaller vessels used to transport people from a big ship to the port if the ship cannot dock for some reason. -- Corfu is a large island and looked very much like San Diego as we were bused to the beach. I had been scheduled to go on a tour of the island, but there was a strike of the guides so no tours were operating. The young woman who waited on Kathy when we first arrived and she couldn't get the beach tour for Matt called and there was a cancellation so we were able to go on the beach excursion.
I was able to swim in the Mediterranean. The water was incredibly clear. I could see all the way to the bottom and the many fish swimming around . The were the color of the sand with a large black circle (mimicking an eye) on their tails. The largest ones were about 12-15 inches long. Some of them would swim up to the top with their backs above the water --- I suppose they were sunning themselves. Had never seen fish do that before.
The beach was very pebbly -- I was wishing I had a pair of flip-flops--but it was worth the pain to get to the beautiful water, and once in the water there was a sandy bottom.
This 5 star resort had lounge chairs and umbrellas waiting for us. All we had to supply was a towel. After swimming I went in and dried off a bit in the shade. Next we went to the Taverna where we had Greek salad and dolmas....Matt, of course, had spaghetti. After lunch I went swimming in the resorts pool which was absolutely pristinely beautiful. There were little individual houses on the grounds. A grounds keeper took Kathy in a golf-cart to the spot -- and then back again when we caught the bus back to the ship.
Once back aboard the ship we got underway heading for our final stop in Naples at Civitevechhia the port. There we will board the train back to Rome. It will be an early morning and a long day - depending on train changes and potential problems with trains or the steps if we have to change trains--- or then there is the possibility that the train could break down as it did on the way to the port from Rome a week and a half ago.
Kathy woke this morning with traveller's distress. She remained in the cabin most of the day while I got most of my things packed this morning. We had to set all our bags out between 7-11:00 p.m. the last night. I tried to get pictures of all the various parts of the ship that we have frequented. Needless to say --- that did not include the casino....or the bars.
We went down to the ship's doctor in the afternoon at about 4:30 to see if he could give Kathy anything for her problem. This would not be a pleasant problem to have on the trains in Italy -- since they are really dirty... He gave her medication --- and dietary advice. (neither of which she followed immediately, and asked us to stay in for the rest of the night.) He didn't seem overly concered -- since we were apparently not the only ones who chose to eat fresh fruit and vegetables on the island!
I was able to swim in the Mediterranean. The water was incredibly clear. I could see all the way to the bottom and the many fish swimming around . The were the color of the sand with a large black circle (mimicking an eye) on their tails. The largest ones were about 12-15 inches long. Some of them would swim up to the top with their backs above the water --- I suppose they were sunning themselves. Had never seen fish do that before.
The beach was very pebbly -- I was wishing I had a pair of flip-flops--but it was worth the pain to get to the beautiful water, and once in the water there was a sandy bottom.
This 5 star resort had lounge chairs and umbrellas waiting for us. All we had to supply was a towel. After swimming I went in and dried off a bit in the shade. Next we went to the Taverna where we had Greek salad and dolmas....Matt, of course, had spaghetti. After lunch I went swimming in the resorts pool which was absolutely pristinely beautiful. There were little individual houses on the grounds. A grounds keeper took Kathy in a golf-cart to the spot -- and then back again when we caught the bus back to the ship.
Once back aboard the ship we got underway heading for our final stop in Naples at Civitevechhia the port. There we will board the train back to Rome. It will be an early morning and a long day - depending on train changes and potential problems with trains or the steps if we have to change trains--- or then there is the possibility that the train could break down as it did on the way to the port from Rome a week and a half ago.
Kathy woke this morning with traveller's distress. She remained in the cabin most of the day while I got most of my things packed this morning. We had to set all our bags out between 7-11:00 p.m. the last night. I tried to get pictures of all the various parts of the ship that we have frequented. Needless to say --- that did not include the casino....or the bars.
We went down to the ship's doctor in the afternoon at about 4:30 to see if he could give Kathy anything for her problem. This would not be a pleasant problem to have on the trains in Italy -- since they are really dirty... He gave her medication --- and dietary advice. (neither of which she followed immediately, and asked us to stay in for the rest of the night.) He didn't seem overly concered -- since we were apparently not the only ones who chose to eat fresh fruit and vegetables on the island!
Days at Sea
The cruise was punctuated with days at sea. This is a reflection on several, rather than individual entries.
A school of dolphins came up next ot the bow of the ship and dove out of the water. The water was so clear that you could see the school as they swam underneath the surface and than as they broke the surface of the water. They are such stunning creatures and as they say --- they are the sailor's friend (thinking of documented cases where Dolphins have carried swimmers back to shore who were in danger of drowning) Early in the morning there is a sort of ground fog -- only there is no ground! The sun burns this off and soon we were surrounded by stunning ultramarine waters. The sea changes color here, possibly in response to sky and sand beneath. It moves between ultramarine, cobalt and shades of aquamarine. It was wonderfully relaxing, and after a good swim and some time to read (I brought along Bryson's Short History of Everything) we had lunch at the Burger Bar -- This was the first burger I have had in some time. Indeed the cruise allows you to have all the stuff from home in addition to experiencing as much as you like of the countries you are visiting.
Kathy and I took a nap in the afternoon and I am spending a bit of time now reflecting on the experience of being on board this ship. It is easy to see why so many people choose to vacation on a cruise, especially those who have medical challenges, honeymooners or people with children. There is a pharmacy and doctor on board, diets can easily be accommodated, people are around to assist with wheelchairs, and you can retire to your cabin at any moment, and there is a staff providing activities for younger children through teens.
1) You carry your hotel with you wherever you go.
2) People really keep track of you -- so that you have a sense of being safe. They would track you down if you did not show up at the appointed time.
3) People are checked on board each time you return to the ship so that bring guns or explosives aboard would be difficult.
4)The crew is taught to meet your every need. Our stateroom attendant comes several times a day always exceedingly polite and asking if we need anything.
5) Someone is here to do your laundry.
6) You can use U.S. currency at the ship stores where prices are quite competative.
7)All your food is covered (except for liquor and sodas)
8)If you are a person who gets easily bored this would be a great way to travel -- if I wanted to participate there are things to do every moment.....gameshows, casinos, video games, dance lessons, massages, beauty appointments, and in the evening lots of shows.....including a piano bar with a torch singer.
9)Shopping --- this cruise not only has shops aboard, but also arranges shops in the towns they visit which are sort of approved ---
A lot of these events are not too appealing to me --- but I can think that some cruises would appeal --- like if they had tours focused on history or archealogy with everything focused about the places we would see, and tours of the local museums, Architectural buildings, churches and mosques. I think these cruise ships must have arrangements with local merchants -- because so much is always about shopping, whether it is on board or in a bazaar or other market. This cruise hits the highs at each spot since you are not in port overnight anywhere you really have to choose just one experience. For example --- You could choose to see an overview with the Pyramids and the famous Alabaster Mosque -- or a tour in Alexandria itself, but there is no possibility for doing both. On these sea days there is always a lecture in the morning about the next port-of-call.
This is fine since these are things I would never have had the opportunity to see and truthfully you only could experience a place in some depth if you committed a minimum of several months to it Ideally to be able to see the museums architecture and historical sites with alacrity would take several days in each destination. This trip we haven't done the art museums or cathedrals --- which was something we did the first time we came in 2003. I think this trip for Kathy is about being in a place and seeing the whole of it, and encouraging her nephew's curiosity about the world and its culture.
Matt is a birght young man who was raised in small town Oklahoma, with all that is equally wonderful and terrible surrounding that. It has been a while since I was around high school students, but he reminds me why I enjoyed working with these students. His warped high school humor has always been a favorite of mine, perhaps part of my character that never really matured. I think about my own experience at his age and remember that I often was so concerned about how I appeared that it limited my explorations.
There is only one real frustration -- at all of these ports of call there are not good accommodations for handicapped people. Kathy is determined (within the realm of possibility) to do everything --- In order to go on the Nile cruise for example she climbed down 35 marble stairs and once aboard up and down a series of 5 more in order to have this experience of Egyptian culture. But she missed the Mosque becuse of the number of stairs and their unevenness. It seems that these governmnets should put lifts in these locations. In France some of the museums had put lifts on the stairs themselves -- thus in no way altering the integrity of the original construction.
These were relaxing days and gave us time to rest up for the each days coming activity.
A school of dolphins came up next ot the bow of the ship and dove out of the water. The water was so clear that you could see the school as they swam underneath the surface and than as they broke the surface of the water. They are such stunning creatures and as they say --- they are the sailor's friend (thinking of documented cases where Dolphins have carried swimmers back to shore who were in danger of drowning) Early in the morning there is a sort of ground fog -- only there is no ground! The sun burns this off and soon we were surrounded by stunning ultramarine waters. The sea changes color here, possibly in response to sky and sand beneath. It moves between ultramarine, cobalt and shades of aquamarine. It was wonderfully relaxing, and after a good swim and some time to read (I brought along Bryson's Short History of Everything) we had lunch at the Burger Bar -- This was the first burger I have had in some time. Indeed the cruise allows you to have all the stuff from home in addition to experiencing as much as you like of the countries you are visiting.
Kathy and I took a nap in the afternoon and I am spending a bit of time now reflecting on the experience of being on board this ship. It is easy to see why so many people choose to vacation on a cruise, especially those who have medical challenges, honeymooners or people with children. There is a pharmacy and doctor on board, diets can easily be accommodated, people are around to assist with wheelchairs, and you can retire to your cabin at any moment, and there is a staff providing activities for younger children through teens.
1) You carry your hotel with you wherever you go.
2) People really keep track of you -- so that you have a sense of being safe. They would track you down if you did not show up at the appointed time.
3) People are checked on board each time you return to the ship so that bring guns or explosives aboard would be difficult.
4)The crew is taught to meet your every need. Our stateroom attendant comes several times a day always exceedingly polite and asking if we need anything.
5) Someone is here to do your laundry.
6) You can use U.S. currency at the ship stores where prices are quite competative.
7)All your food is covered (except for liquor and sodas)
8)If you are a person who gets easily bored this would be a great way to travel -- if I wanted to participate there are things to do every moment.....gameshows, casinos, video games, dance lessons, massages, beauty appointments, and in the evening lots of shows.....including a piano bar with a torch singer.
9)Shopping --- this cruise not only has shops aboard, but also arranges shops in the towns they visit which are sort of approved ---
A lot of these events are not too appealing to me --- but I can think that some cruises would appeal --- like if they had tours focused on history or archealogy with everything focused about the places we would see, and tours of the local museums, Architectural buildings, churches and mosques. I think these cruise ships must have arrangements with local merchants -- because so much is always about shopping, whether it is on board or in a bazaar or other market. This cruise hits the highs at each spot since you are not in port overnight anywhere you really have to choose just one experience. For example --- You could choose to see an overview with the Pyramids and the famous Alabaster Mosque -- or a tour in Alexandria itself, but there is no possibility for doing both. On these sea days there is always a lecture in the morning about the next port-of-call.
This is fine since these are things I would never have had the opportunity to see and truthfully you only could experience a place in some depth if you committed a minimum of several months to it Ideally to be able to see the museums architecture and historical sites with alacrity would take several days in each destination. This trip we haven't done the art museums or cathedrals --- which was something we did the first time we came in 2003. I think this trip for Kathy is about being in a place and seeing the whole of it, and encouraging her nephew's curiosity about the world and its culture.
Matt is a birght young man who was raised in small town Oklahoma, with all that is equally wonderful and terrible surrounding that. It has been a while since I was around high school students, but he reminds me why I enjoyed working with these students. His warped high school humor has always been a favorite of mine, perhaps part of my character that never really matured. I think about my own experience at his age and remember that I often was so concerned about how I appeared that it limited my explorations.
There is only one real frustration -- at all of these ports of call there are not good accommodations for handicapped people. Kathy is determined (within the realm of possibility) to do everything --- In order to go on the Nile cruise for example she climbed down 35 marble stairs and once aboard up and down a series of 5 more in order to have this experience of Egyptian culture. But she missed the Mosque becuse of the number of stairs and their unevenness. It seems that these governmnets should put lifts in these locations. In France some of the museums had put lifts on the stairs themselves -- thus in no way altering the integrity of the original construction.
These were relaxing days and gave us time to rest up for the each days coming activity.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
RidingCamels in Egypt
As we docked there was an acrid smell in the air. Similar to the smell from childhood when we took trash to the "dump" -- As a child it fascinated me because there were always little fires burning or smoldering all around the perimeters. The smell was burning damp cardboard and other unidentified things. We had to present our passport and sea pass upon disembarking. We were met by our Egyptian guide, Bella. She teaches at Cairo University and is a tour guide once a week. She instructs other guides, and it is clear from the outset that the government and everyone else was intent on making us feel welcome, safe and appreciated. This seems to be something that most of these countries in the Southern Mediterranean do as well --- they train their guides to be experts on their history. Security is everywhere. On the bus with us was an armed guard. Our buses were escorted by police through Cairo traffic. Bella pointed out that even though it was slow going at times --- we were actually moving quite fast (100 K by the speedometer on the dash) compared to what it could have been without the escort. We did not stop for traffic lights, but often found that traffic backed up to a standstill.
There are 20 million people living in Cairo and Bella told us that there are 1 million babies added to the population of Egypt every eight months. This surely is a spectre on anything good happening here. There are three economic products --- tourism, gold, cotton and recently they have begun to export sand to the Greek islands. They also earn money from the Suez canal fees, but it is clear that Egypt is a poor country. Bella pointed out that Egypt is a bridge between Asia and Africa representing parts of both cultures. The entire population of Egypt is concentrated along the length of the Nile(6% of the land) That population totals around 80 million at present. The only source of water for the country is this river. Bella said that they may only have 3 cm a year in rainfall and that students are dismissed from school when it rains. There are celebrations everywhere during this time. The rain may last only an hour or two --- but people celebrate for the entire day!
As we left the harbor there was an area behind a wall which was like a landfill-- with children picking trash. It was an incredible shock to see the conditions along the highway. I find it difficult put feelings into words. There was trash everywhere, and buildings looked as though they were in various stages of decay or perhaps they were never finished to begin with. I hope the photos I snapped as we passed through these neighborhoods in Alexandria come out because they glimpse a level of poverty I had not seen before, even in Mexico.
Everything was covered with soot -- in Europe they are constantly cleaning this from the ancient buildings. Perhaps if they did not do this Europe would seem as dingy.
The air was like Los Angeles when I was a kid --- thick like a fog but clearly photo-chemical smog (identifiable also by odor). Soon we are out on the road between Alexandria and Cairo. There was a huge lake and we crossed the several small Nile tributaries as we speed along the highway. Bella says this lake is largely polluted because of the industries surrounding it. They appear to be mostly related to oil and gas. It is amazing to see the reeds growing in this lake which has little flat bottomed boats with men wearing traditional Egyptian garb pushing their poles along the bottom to keep moving. Here and there were what appeared to be duck blinds, but are more likely makeshift homes. These would make quaint photos --- but the bus sped along at a rate that made it difficult to capture this on film.
The traffic on the road is mostly industrial in nature, but there is an occasional car with a family in it. There are many vans which seem clearly to be some sort of public conveyance which are jam-packed with people. It takes nearly 3 hours to reach Cairo which like Alexandria is very dirty. The tour company provided us with a bag of treats - including guava nectar, crackers, banana and apple, and a candy bar. It was very considerate since we left at about 7:00 a.m.
Our first stop is the Alabaster Mosque or the Mosque of Mohammad Ali -- the "re-creator of Egypt" I think were the words that Bella used. At any rate he is the person responsible for the modern country of Egypt and while the chap was quite bloodthirsty -- he succeeded in creating a nation state because of this. While he kept the Muslim religion he jettisoned the role that women played. During the Muslim occupation women were allowed to leave there home on two occasions -- one of which was their wedding. He ditched that policy and went back to the Egyptian practice of equality between the sexes.
The mosque is an impressive structure at the south of Cairo. Again we came through some abysmal slums to get there -- Bella tells us that it is always in the south of a city that you find slums...still either we have been driving exclusively in the slums or else there are a lot of slums here. As we get to the Mosque we must take off our shoes and there are women stationed to put what look like surgical gowns on the women who do not have enough of their bodies covered -- I place the shawl I bought in Germany on my head as a matter of respect. It is the same reason I wore a long sleeved shirt and a long skirt today. I would like to honor the traditions of these people.
There are ornate and ancient carpets on the floor of the central prayer room. There are three small or semi-domes that support the enormous stone dome which Bella says is the largest stone dome in the world. In the courtyard where men perform their ritualistic ablutions there is an incongruant clock tower. Turns out this tower was sent by King Louis Phillipe of France. Unfortunately it has never worked, and when they tried to fix it they discovered it never had the clockworks in it. For this clock Luis Philippe received one of the obelisks from Luxor for the Concorde in Paris. When he requested the other obelisk -- Mohammad Ali thought it was payback time. Knowing full well what he wanted Mohammad agreed and received the spectacular chandelier that graces the interior of the mosque --- in return he sent the French King a golden box filled with sand and inside a letter saying he was sending something even more ancient and valuable than the obelisk. He was sending the sand on which the Egyptian people built the obelisk.
Their were workmen repainting the inscription above the fountain -- but much of this mosque needs the kind of cleaning that the Sistine chapel received and now much of the art of European masterpieces is cleaned every decade to wash away the grime of the tourists and the smoke of air pollution. As we descend the steep stairway to our bus -- it is clear how many pilgrims have passed this way. The stones are worn down. I wonder though if this is ever used as a functional Mosque --- since so many infidels visit it daily. Everywhere there are the independent vendors trying to sell their wares. We have been warned against them -- we are not even to acknowledge them. Bella warns us that a no thank you is only an invitation to keep trying!
Once back on the bus, I was aware of just how hot it felt. The bus was air conditioned which was a gift indeed. At mid-day (which is when we arrived at the Pyramids) the heat was overwhelming. It took about 30 minutes to arrive at the great pyramids of Giza. The pictures I took may be spoiled by the air pollution, but I am certain I can find some on the internet when the day was clear. We climbed to the highest spot where there are camel rides, and Matt and I took the ride of a lifetime. As I approached a young boy who was to lead my camel around, the mother gestured to a different camel -- one that I am sure was very old and very tired and very tame-- The view from atop one of these beasts is strikingly different than the view from astride a horse. They are much wider and the saddle horn is at both ends --- so even getting up was a bit of a challenge -- getting my leg up over the horn at the rear presented a set of problems --- since Muslim males couldn't touch a female --- even one that is old --- I had to manage to do this while the camel was moving under me --- but once I was in place -- the boy said, "lean back mam." I thought I was --- but apparently the signal to the camel to stand up is leaning far back -- once the beast began to rise it was a bit unnerving - I felt as though I might topple off at any moment! I did manage to take a couple of pictures from on top of the camel -- but I never really felt comfortable without both hands hanging on!! When the boy returned to put the camel down -- he said ---"Lean forward, Mam" I did -- nothing happened. "Lean forward, Mam." He repeated. I tried again --- NO----MORE mam -- I felt as though I would go headlong over the camel as it was, but suddenly the camel knelt down and then I really was headlong at a most precarious angle. His brother rushed to his aide --- fearing this Mam would land on her head....but I managed to regain some semblance of balance and with no dignity whatever get off the beast! It was a moment I was glad to look at in retrospect! I got the boys photo together. Then they wanted to take my picture with the camel --- but the guide had told us never to give our camera to anyone --- even the children working the camels -- so I said no thank you! It made me sad to think that I couldn't trust them. I should have tried to interview them for this kids at school about their experience and school- --- but I would have needed translation help.
We next drove down to the Sphinx -- which struck me as being smaller than I expected. The Sphinx had a beard and face until Napoleon's army used it for target practice. The sand and heart were too much -- and I headed back for the comfort of the bus. There were opportunities to go into the great pyramid -- and if it had not been so hot --- I would like to have done that -- of course you don't actually see anything --- it has all been removed, but you would be standing in the place where the Pharaoh's body had once been borne to his final resting place (well that is until tomb robbers removed him destroyed his body to destroy his spirit . Bella advised against this excursion because of the time constraint we were on and of course also because of the extreme heat --- and as she said," the lack of oxygen and the fact that you have to enter through a corridor quite stooped over."
After we left the Pyramids we headed to our Nile excursion. This was a very clean boat (a 5 star hotel sponsors) so we could feel confident about what we ate there. They arranged a beautiful buffet of typical Egyptian food including the honey-drenched sweets at the end. Some of these delicacies I had experienced thanks to my friend Inas Alameldin -- at home, but some were completely new to me. For the main course there were choices of lamb, chicken or fish-- many choices of rice and a variety of salads and vegetables with which I was unfamiliar. Their was traditional Egyptian folk music and a belly dancer who performed five or six numbers. The last of which was almost a dance with one of the old drummers and was quite entertaining -- as she moved her body in response to his drumming. Kathy went outside and photographed the Nile and the shore from the boat. returning just in time to head back to the bus. To come to the feast was she had to navigate 100 steps total --- She has more gumption than most folks I know.
Once we were back on the bus -- there was the final stop at the Papyrus Institute and the Bazaar. At the Papyrus institute young Muslim girls demonstrate the making of papyrus (and warned against buying it in the street -- where it is likely made from banana peels and potato -- and apparently disintegrates rather quickly.. She first showed the papyrus stock with the shock of feathery plant at the top. The stalk represents the Nile and the feathery part the delta with its many tributaries. The stock itself is in the form of a pyramid--many symbols for the Egyptian. It is made by stripping away the green and then dividing it into long strips -- soaking it until the starch of the plant becomes evident and then pressing it together after weaving it and placing it between carpet until it dries. I selected a small bit from the Koran. Most of the people are buying ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs and pictures of a Pharaoh ---or Nefertiti. I wanted to be sure I had the one I wanted --- I thought it said there is but one God and his name is Allah. I took the papyrus request to the cashier --- the young man looked at me and said, "Are you a Muslim?" I replied no --"You are aware this is from the Koran?" Yes, I said --- telling him what I thought it said. Surprised he filled the order and I wished him "Salaam Aleichem" and left with my beautiful illuminated papyrus manuscript. We were next in the Bazaar where the kartoush orders were picked up --- and finally back on the bus for the return to port in Alexandria. As we exited the city I saw some of the most beautiful trees. The leaves were like mimosa trees at home, but the flowers were much more pronounced and the colors were bold unlike the pastel pink of home.
There were bougainvilleas, something that looked like morning glories as well, and other beautiful flowers in the midst of squalor. Then we passed into an obviously upscale section of the city. Though it was also dirty, there were nicer buildings and cars. Bella also said we were provided cokes and bottled water --- from the tour company. They also provided us with an Egyptian Newspaper printed in English, a postcard stamped which they will mail for us, a place to review the experience. It is really clear that these people need and want American tourism. They are friendly and did everything that they could to ensure that we had a great experience in Egypt.
We drove back over the same route, but this time it was time for people to be heading home from work so our traveling companions were different. There appeared to be many vehicles with lots of workers headed home to the suburbs. There are huge tracts of land that are just dunes in the desert --- but right next door may be a nice looking villa and several small houses. The guide explained that where there is something obviously growing in the ground the government is subsidizing this. Bella explained that the government was giving away land to people and if they could produce a crop in three years the land was theirs. I asked her about how they pay for the water -and she said they don't have to pay anything for water, but for pumping it out of the ground. The small houses that looked like housing developments were in fact the homes of the workers in the fields. They get to live in the nice little houses in exchange for their labor and must work there for months at a time. Each of these compounds appear to have a mosque at the entrance to the land. Many of these fields are clearly abandoned --- it would be terribly difficult to grow things in this sand, and also -- it is a terrible idea to take water from an underground aquifer to water these fields too. There are also at least three maybe four sites that we thought were either prisons or military bases --- when we asked--we learned that they were jails.
As we approach the end of our trip together Bella reminds us that no matter how bad we think our jobs are --- or how tired we are of something at home --- it could always be much worse--it makes me very sad to recognize this. We arrived back to the ship about around 8:30 -- watched the sun set and watched as the tugs maneuvered us toward the opening in the bay and into the night....
There are 20 million people living in Cairo and Bella told us that there are 1 million babies added to the population of Egypt every eight months. This surely is a spectre on anything good happening here. There are three economic products --- tourism, gold, cotton and recently they have begun to export sand to the Greek islands. They also earn money from the Suez canal fees, but it is clear that Egypt is a poor country. Bella pointed out that Egypt is a bridge between Asia and Africa representing parts of both cultures. The entire population of Egypt is concentrated along the length of the Nile(6% of the land) That population totals around 80 million at present. The only source of water for the country is this river. Bella said that they may only have 3 cm a year in rainfall and that students are dismissed from school when it rains. There are celebrations everywhere during this time. The rain may last only an hour or two --- but people celebrate for the entire day!
As we left the harbor there was an area behind a wall which was like a landfill-- with children picking trash. It was an incredible shock to see the conditions along the highway. I find it difficult put feelings into words. There was trash everywhere, and buildings looked as though they were in various stages of decay or perhaps they were never finished to begin with. I hope the photos I snapped as we passed through these neighborhoods in Alexandria come out because they glimpse a level of poverty I had not seen before, even in Mexico.
Everything was covered with soot -- in Europe they are constantly cleaning this from the ancient buildings. Perhaps if they did not do this Europe would seem as dingy.
The air was like Los Angeles when I was a kid --- thick like a fog but clearly photo-chemical smog (identifiable also by odor). Soon we are out on the road between Alexandria and Cairo. There was a huge lake and we crossed the several small Nile tributaries as we speed along the highway. Bella says this lake is largely polluted because of the industries surrounding it. They appear to be mostly related to oil and gas. It is amazing to see the reeds growing in this lake which has little flat bottomed boats with men wearing traditional Egyptian garb pushing their poles along the bottom to keep moving. Here and there were what appeared to be duck blinds, but are more likely makeshift homes. These would make quaint photos --- but the bus sped along at a rate that made it difficult to capture this on film.
The traffic on the road is mostly industrial in nature, but there is an occasional car with a family in it. There are many vans which seem clearly to be some sort of public conveyance which are jam-packed with people. It takes nearly 3 hours to reach Cairo which like Alexandria is very dirty. The tour company provided us with a bag of treats - including guava nectar, crackers, banana and apple, and a candy bar. It was very considerate since we left at about 7:00 a.m.
Our first stop is the Alabaster Mosque or the Mosque of Mohammad Ali -- the "re-creator of Egypt" I think were the words that Bella used. At any rate he is the person responsible for the modern country of Egypt and while the chap was quite bloodthirsty -- he succeeded in creating a nation state because of this. While he kept the Muslim religion he jettisoned the role that women played. During the Muslim occupation women were allowed to leave there home on two occasions -- one of which was their wedding. He ditched that policy and went back to the Egyptian practice of equality between the sexes.
The mosque is an impressive structure at the south of Cairo. Again we came through some abysmal slums to get there -- Bella tells us that it is always in the south of a city that you find slums...still either we have been driving exclusively in the slums or else there are a lot of slums here. As we get to the Mosque we must take off our shoes and there are women stationed to put what look like surgical gowns on the women who do not have enough of their bodies covered -- I place the shawl I bought in Germany on my head as a matter of respect. It is the same reason I wore a long sleeved shirt and a long skirt today. I would like to honor the traditions of these people.
There are ornate and ancient carpets on the floor of the central prayer room. There are three small or semi-domes that support the enormous stone dome which Bella says is the largest stone dome in the world. In the courtyard where men perform their ritualistic ablutions there is an incongruant clock tower. Turns out this tower was sent by King Louis Phillipe of France. Unfortunately it has never worked, and when they tried to fix it they discovered it never had the clockworks in it. For this clock Luis Philippe received one of the obelisks from Luxor for the Concorde in Paris. When he requested the other obelisk -- Mohammad Ali thought it was payback time. Knowing full well what he wanted Mohammad agreed and received the spectacular chandelier that graces the interior of the mosque --- in return he sent the French King a golden box filled with sand and inside a letter saying he was sending something even more ancient and valuable than the obelisk. He was sending the sand on which the Egyptian people built the obelisk.
Their were workmen repainting the inscription above the fountain -- but much of this mosque needs the kind of cleaning that the Sistine chapel received and now much of the art of European masterpieces is cleaned every decade to wash away the grime of the tourists and the smoke of air pollution. As we descend the steep stairway to our bus -- it is clear how many pilgrims have passed this way. The stones are worn down. I wonder though if this is ever used as a functional Mosque --- since so many infidels visit it daily. Everywhere there are the independent vendors trying to sell their wares. We have been warned against them -- we are not even to acknowledge them. Bella warns us that a no thank you is only an invitation to keep trying!
Once back on the bus, I was aware of just how hot it felt. The bus was air conditioned which was a gift indeed. At mid-day (which is when we arrived at the Pyramids) the heat was overwhelming. It took about 30 minutes to arrive at the great pyramids of Giza. The pictures I took may be spoiled by the air pollution, but I am certain I can find some on the internet when the day was clear. We climbed to the highest spot where there are camel rides, and Matt and I took the ride of a lifetime. As I approached a young boy who was to lead my camel around, the mother gestured to a different camel -- one that I am sure was very old and very tired and very tame-- The view from atop one of these beasts is strikingly different than the view from astride a horse. They are much wider and the saddle horn is at both ends --- so even getting up was a bit of a challenge -- getting my leg up over the horn at the rear presented a set of problems --- since Muslim males couldn't touch a female --- even one that is old --- I had to manage to do this while the camel was moving under me --- but once I was in place -- the boy said, "lean back mam." I thought I was --- but apparently the signal to the camel to stand up is leaning far back -- once the beast began to rise it was a bit unnerving - I felt as though I might topple off at any moment! I did manage to take a couple of pictures from on top of the camel -- but I never really felt comfortable without both hands hanging on!! When the boy returned to put the camel down -- he said ---"Lean forward, Mam" I did -- nothing happened. "Lean forward, Mam." He repeated. I tried again --- NO----MORE mam -- I felt as though I would go headlong over the camel as it was, but suddenly the camel knelt down and then I really was headlong at a most precarious angle. His brother rushed to his aide --- fearing this Mam would land on her head....but I managed to regain some semblance of balance and with no dignity whatever get off the beast! It was a moment I was glad to look at in retrospect! I got the boys photo together. Then they wanted to take my picture with the camel --- but the guide had told us never to give our camera to anyone --- even the children working the camels -- so I said no thank you! It made me sad to think that I couldn't trust them. I should have tried to interview them for this kids at school about their experience and school- --- but I would have needed translation help.
We next drove down to the Sphinx -- which struck me as being smaller than I expected. The Sphinx had a beard and face until Napoleon's army used it for target practice. The sand and heart were too much -- and I headed back for the comfort of the bus. There were opportunities to go into the great pyramid -- and if it had not been so hot --- I would like to have done that -- of course you don't actually see anything --- it has all been removed, but you would be standing in the place where the Pharaoh's body had once been borne to his final resting place (well that is until tomb robbers removed him destroyed his body to destroy his spirit . Bella advised against this excursion because of the time constraint we were on and of course also because of the extreme heat --- and as she said," the lack of oxygen and the fact that you have to enter through a corridor quite stooped over."
After we left the Pyramids we headed to our Nile excursion. This was a very clean boat (a 5 star hotel sponsors) so we could feel confident about what we ate there. They arranged a beautiful buffet of typical Egyptian food including the honey-drenched sweets at the end. Some of these delicacies I had experienced thanks to my friend Inas Alameldin -- at home, but some were completely new to me. For the main course there were choices of lamb, chicken or fish-- many choices of rice and a variety of salads and vegetables with which I was unfamiliar. Their was traditional Egyptian folk music and a belly dancer who performed five or six numbers. The last of which was almost a dance with one of the old drummers and was quite entertaining -- as she moved her body in response to his drumming. Kathy went outside and photographed the Nile and the shore from the boat. returning just in time to head back to the bus. To come to the feast was she had to navigate 100 steps total --- She has more gumption than most folks I know.
Once we were back on the bus -- there was the final stop at the Papyrus Institute and the Bazaar. At the Papyrus institute young Muslim girls demonstrate the making of papyrus (and warned against buying it in the street -- where it is likely made from banana peels and potato -- and apparently disintegrates rather quickly.. She first showed the papyrus stock with the shock of feathery plant at the top. The stalk represents the Nile and the feathery part the delta with its many tributaries. The stock itself is in the form of a pyramid--many symbols for the Egyptian. It is made by stripping away the green and then dividing it into long strips -- soaking it until the starch of the plant becomes evident and then pressing it together after weaving it and placing it between carpet until it dries. I selected a small bit from the Koran. Most of the people are buying ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs and pictures of a Pharaoh ---or Nefertiti. I wanted to be sure I had the one I wanted --- I thought it said there is but one God and his name is Allah. I took the papyrus request to the cashier --- the young man looked at me and said, "Are you a Muslim?" I replied no --"You are aware this is from the Koran?" Yes, I said --- telling him what I thought it said. Surprised he filled the order and I wished him "Salaam Aleichem" and left with my beautiful illuminated papyrus manuscript. We were next in the Bazaar where the kartoush orders were picked up --- and finally back on the bus for the return to port in Alexandria. As we exited the city I saw some of the most beautiful trees. The leaves were like mimosa trees at home, but the flowers were much more pronounced and the colors were bold unlike the pastel pink of home.
There were bougainvilleas, something that looked like morning glories as well, and other beautiful flowers in the midst of squalor. Then we passed into an obviously upscale section of the city. Though it was also dirty, there were nicer buildings and cars. Bella also said we were provided cokes and bottled water --- from the tour company. They also provided us with an Egyptian Newspaper printed in English, a postcard stamped which they will mail for us, a place to review the experience. It is really clear that these people need and want American tourism. They are friendly and did everything that they could to ensure that we had a great experience in Egypt.
We drove back over the same route, but this time it was time for people to be heading home from work so our traveling companions were different. There appeared to be many vehicles with lots of workers headed home to the suburbs. There are huge tracts of land that are just dunes in the desert --- but right next door may be a nice looking villa and several small houses. The guide explained that where there is something obviously growing in the ground the government is subsidizing this. Bella explained that the government was giving away land to people and if they could produce a crop in three years the land was theirs. I asked her about how they pay for the water -and she said they don't have to pay anything for water, but for pumping it out of the ground. The small houses that looked like housing developments were in fact the homes of the workers in the fields. They get to live in the nice little houses in exchange for their labor and must work there for months at a time. Each of these compounds appear to have a mosque at the entrance to the land. Many of these fields are clearly abandoned --- it would be terribly difficult to grow things in this sand, and also -- it is a terrible idea to take water from an underground aquifer to water these fields too. There are also at least three maybe four sites that we thought were either prisons or military bases --- when we asked--we learned that they were jails.
As we approach the end of our trip together Bella reminds us that no matter how bad we think our jobs are --- or how tired we are of something at home --- it could always be much worse--it makes me very sad to recognize this. We arrived back to the ship about around 8:30 -- watched the sun set and watched as the tugs maneuvered us toward the opening in the bay and into the night....
Monday, June 08, 2009
Speaking to the Ephesians
In these waters we were able to pull in Aljazeera T.V. So we began to watch news from this perspective. I must say that I found much of their reporting to be as Fox says "fair and balanced." There was a story about a madras which was !forcing Muslim children to beg during the day to help pay for the school. It was an unflattering account. A report that Iranians are using Satellite dishes which are not accepted by the government-- villages that have only had electricity for three years are now using the dish to learn about the rest of the world and this is a big problem to the government, and parents who think it wastes children's time and distracts them from spreading Islam and studying the Koran!
Sounds like my Mom when we got our first T.V. when I was 7 years old. She was worried that it would distract us from getting an education. We see people challenging their government based on the fact that they are not able to get information and news or good educational television from the government run t.v. stations. Hmmm....I really think we would benefit from seeing this channel! I will have to see if we can get it at home. The next program about Lebanon found the reporter grilling one of the people in the Hezbollah-Led coalition -- and I do mean grilling! He was obviously angry when the reporter continued to point out that Hezbollah has been a disruptive force and one that has caused much ill. This was not a perspective I expected from Aljazeera.
We left this morning for Ephesus. Everyone aboard ship was going on this tour and even though we went down early -- there was a line extending clear back through the casino. We finally got our bush number and headed off ship. The Ship now sails with a Turkish flag a beautiful red with the crescent and star. Our bus was immaculate. The driver had things organized very neatly and obviously took great pride in his bus. He wore a white shirt and tie. The tour guide, Tan, explained that he has not done a tour for 12 years, but one of the traditions here regards being a Godfather. His friend who would have been our tour guide had his first baby this morning, and so he will work for him today. All the money that he would earn, he explained, will go to this young family. Then Tan told us some of the other traditions. He was happy that the child was a boy. With a boy he only has to pay for the circumcision of the child which will happen in the next couple of days as Turks believe a baby doesn't feel pain yet! If it had been a girl the cost of her dowry would have run him about $25,000.
Tan got his B.A. in the U.S. at Gainesville, Florida in Art History. He later got his PhD in Istanbul focusing on Turkish carpet making which is one of the major traditions of Turkey and has been part of his family's business for centuries. He now has his own school for carpet weavers, taking young tribal women who easily fall into prostitution without some intervention. His hope is that they can preserve the beautiful artistic tradition and give them this trade. His family has been involved in the textile business (one of his uncles lived in U.S. for 45 years) learning and then producing denim. So he saw an opportunity to start a school for these girls teaching ancient weaving arts. His girls wove the presidential carpet when Bill Clinton visited and the Clintons have been interested in the school. As we passed by it he had one of the girls hang a red carpet outside so we could see it.
He pointed out as we journeyed along that the main industry in Turkey is cotton farming, in addition to tourism. At present you could buy a beautiful seaside condo for $180,000 U.S. Dollars -- but he expects this to skyrocket when they join the European Union. He clearly supports this move, but indicates that it will be difficult at first.
Tan told us about the Muslim Culture, with its inherent hospitality and emphasized that interplay of Jewish, Christian and Muslim culture in Turkey. He explained the fact that Ataturk (whose statue graces the harbor) brought secular society to Turkey in 1923 and the three religions have existed here in relative peace. He himself has a Jewish sister-in-law and his nieces are being raised as Jews. He went out of his way to explain that not all Muslims are radical as we may believe.
Our first stop is the house of the Virgin Mary. According to Catholic tradition Mary spent her last years in Turkey and apparently St. Katherine(stigmata) apparently believed after a dream that she had found the spot and got the church to sponsor rebuilding the site in the early 18th century. So as we walk through what we see is not 3rd century Greek building, but it is what they thought it would have been. A monk welcomed us and it was hushed inside. We were not to take pictures. As we exited there was a place to light candles. The whole spot is high atop a mountain and the air was very cool. The building was surrounded by beautiful flowers -- the roses were especially lovely. Here things were not dry. As we drove down to Ephesus the terrain looked very much like parts of California with citrus orchards on the mountainsides, but the closer we come to the ancient city the drier it appears...
We reached the city and disembarked from the bus. It seemed unreal to find myself in the city where Paul spoke and to think of being able to read Ephesians with new eyes -- thinking of these stones and wondering if I stepped on one where the Apostle himself stood -- moves me. The people here are incredibly hospitable. It has been typical everywhere that at the conclusion of a tour there is a gauntlet of shops and peddlers selling local wares. As Matt and I walked down toward the bus, a peddler approached selling spices. I had left my purse on the bus and thought it the simplest things to say --- I had no money. When I said this the peddler simply gave me a packet of Saffron. I protested, but he insisted I take it. Where else might this happen? Anyone who comes will have their preconceived notions about the Muslims turned on its ear. The bus driver had a small step stool which made it easier for her to climb into the bus. Tan made sure that she was accommodated and when we left I fluffed her hair and we ditched the chair as Bunny had instructed. Apparently a young man made a pass at her while we were gone. He explained that age is unimportant in relationships. He took Kathy to meet his cousins who ran a number of stands at the market. While we were on the walking tour of this fabulous site Kathy was able to buy a number of items she had hoped to find. She was waiting in comfort at the end of our tour having had some coffee in a local cafe.
Matt and I were treated to an excellent historical presentation by Tan. He pointed out that excavation here is an ongoing. Just 10 years ago much of that which we saw was still underneath the surface. He explained that the three columns just next to us were uncovered last year at an expense of 6 million. He was quick to thank Ericcson, Boston University, New York Metropolitan Museum and British Museum for the money that they kick in to the purpose of excavation. Tan explains who the river deposited silt into the bay and ultimately the area became a swamp which meant that there was malaria and other mosquito borne diseases-- which meant that the city was ultimately abandoned --- of course seismic activity was another reason for the abandonment of the city. But this city was a great trading center for centuries from around 3 b.c. until the destruction by earthquake several centuries after Christ.
Tan also pointed out other interesting things like the sewer pipe which was exposed --- it measured the same size as a modern American sewer pipe for a city this size! The gauge on train tracks is the same as the measure of the distance between the wheels of a standard Roman cart! He pointed out as did our guide in Lindos that many of the things that were done thousands of years ago remain largely unchanged today. Even the news on Aljazeera about Lebanese Elections spoke to this. In Lebanon people must travel to the city of origin to vote ((just like Mary and Joseph - traveling to point of origin for census!).
Tan was careful to put us in the shade whenever he stopped to tell us about various spots. It was a stroke of good luck to have the baby born today!! He always pointed out the best vantage point for photos. When we arrived at the amphitheater we passed the library which was undergoing reconstruction.. Tan explained that the library originally had 3 floors to it, and included an underground passage to the bordello across the street --- so that men could tell their wives they were going to the library and then enjoy one of the prostitutes from the city. Another interesting feature is a blue crane. Apparently, when Sting performed here to benefit the excavations and reconstruction -- so many people were jumping up and down that they cracked an important support in the Colosseum! So now it is being repaired.
Everywhere along the path were hollyhocks and red poppies, sedums blooming, and clover. The pomegranate trees are in bloom, and we have learned that this tree is an important symbol of fertility in this region. It is interesting to see in this part of the world what happens to hibiscus, pomegranates and other shrubs that I have seen in the U.S. I suppose that since it doesn't ever freeze in these countries things that are only bushes at home turn into real trees. On Mykanos I saw a Hibiscus with a trunk that was 6 inches thick and the blooms and leaves were overhead! This is true as well with pomegranates. Cats wandered the ruins here too, and one of the French-Canadians shrieked as one of them brushed up against her. The sun continued to bear down on us and perspiration began to form on my brow. When we returned to the bus I drank most of the water provided for me at the beginning of the trip. Our bus was airconditioned, and soon were on the way to lunch at a beautiful 5 star resort hotel on the mountainside overlooking the bay.
We were treated to a variety of Turkish foods featuring cucumbers, eggplant, lamb, chicken, fabulous deserts and many vegetables -- olives are served in oil with orange slices. Lots of dill and yogurt are present in refreshing abundance, and then there are the deserts --- Baklava, of course, but also many very light souffle like custards, and cakes that are very creamy, in addition to creme puffs and other European delights. We were asked not to drink anything with ice or water while we were on the mainland of Turkey --- but that has been true also in Greece --- I forgot that admonition and had the iced Greek coffee in Mykanos and seem to be fine and we ate lots of local very delicious veggies.
I certainly am well fed on this trip --- at least this part of it --- though of course, I am walking a great deal. So I hope that I am being reasonable trying to take small helpings, but I am tasting many new things. Last night I chose the Sushi option at dinner, and that was delightful.
Following our meal we headed back onto the bus and went to a Carpet making establishment where they explained how the carpets are made. The wools, silks and cottons are all dyed with vegetable dyes as they have been in ancient times. They offered us various drinks (I choose apple tea -- a local specialty). Matt was the only person in the entire group to try to local liquor drink Raki -- which is about 50% alcohol--He was a bit unsteady at the end but very happy! One of the workers as they rolled out the carpets was able to toss them into the air to make them into true flying carpets. One of the round ones was easily spun pizza-style!
Following the presentation we were descended upon by salespeople. This was something that we found in the markets where shop keepers besieged us. People worked the crowd and really pursued you to get you into their shops. It is not an easy life --- I am sure. Matt found a cafe where there was Wi-Fi and we sat and had some water, coke and coffee, and Kathy and I walked among the shops --- There are beautiful leather goods, jewelry, and many pashmina shawls and clothes. We returned to the ship and set sail around 5:00 p.m.
Tomorrow is a sea day and the day after we will arrive in Egypt.
Sounds like my Mom when we got our first T.V. when I was 7 years old. She was worried that it would distract us from getting an education. We see people challenging their government based on the fact that they are not able to get information and news or good educational television from the government run t.v. stations. Hmmm....I really think we would benefit from seeing this channel! I will have to see if we can get it at home. The next program about Lebanon found the reporter grilling one of the people in the Hezbollah-Led coalition -- and I do mean grilling! He was obviously angry when the reporter continued to point out that Hezbollah has been a disruptive force and one that has caused much ill. This was not a perspective I expected from Aljazeera.
We left this morning for Ephesus. Everyone aboard ship was going on this tour and even though we went down early -- there was a line extending clear back through the casino. We finally got our bush number and headed off ship. The Ship now sails with a Turkish flag a beautiful red with the crescent and star. Our bus was immaculate. The driver had things organized very neatly and obviously took great pride in his bus. He wore a white shirt and tie. The tour guide, Tan, explained that he has not done a tour for 12 years, but one of the traditions here regards being a Godfather. His friend who would have been our tour guide had his first baby this morning, and so he will work for him today. All the money that he would earn, he explained, will go to this young family. Then Tan told us some of the other traditions. He was happy that the child was a boy. With a boy he only has to pay for the circumcision of the child which will happen in the next couple of days as Turks believe a baby doesn't feel pain yet! If it had been a girl the cost of her dowry would have run him about $25,000.
Tan got his B.A. in the U.S. at Gainesville, Florida in Art History. He later got his PhD in Istanbul focusing on Turkish carpet making which is one of the major traditions of Turkey and has been part of his family's business for centuries. He now has his own school for carpet weavers, taking young tribal women who easily fall into prostitution without some intervention. His hope is that they can preserve the beautiful artistic tradition and give them this trade. His family has been involved in the textile business (one of his uncles lived in U.S. for 45 years) learning and then producing denim. So he saw an opportunity to start a school for these girls teaching ancient weaving arts. His girls wove the presidential carpet when Bill Clinton visited and the Clintons have been interested in the school. As we passed by it he had one of the girls hang a red carpet outside so we could see it.
He pointed out as we journeyed along that the main industry in Turkey is cotton farming, in addition to tourism. At present you could buy a beautiful seaside condo for $180,000 U.S. Dollars -- but he expects this to skyrocket when they join the European Union. He clearly supports this move, but indicates that it will be difficult at first.
Tan told us about the Muslim Culture, with its inherent hospitality and emphasized that interplay of Jewish, Christian and Muslim culture in Turkey. He explained the fact that Ataturk (whose statue graces the harbor) brought secular society to Turkey in 1923 and the three religions have existed here in relative peace. He himself has a Jewish sister-in-law and his nieces are being raised as Jews. He went out of his way to explain that not all Muslims are radical as we may believe.
Our first stop is the house of the Virgin Mary. According to Catholic tradition Mary spent her last years in Turkey and apparently St. Katherine(stigmata) apparently believed after a dream that she had found the spot and got the church to sponsor rebuilding the site in the early 18th century. So as we walk through what we see is not 3rd century Greek building, but it is what they thought it would have been. A monk welcomed us and it was hushed inside. We were not to take pictures. As we exited there was a place to light candles. The whole spot is high atop a mountain and the air was very cool. The building was surrounded by beautiful flowers -- the roses were especially lovely. Here things were not dry. As we drove down to Ephesus the terrain looked very much like parts of California with citrus orchards on the mountainsides, but the closer we come to the ancient city the drier it appears...
We reached the city and disembarked from the bus. It seemed unreal to find myself in the city where Paul spoke and to think of being able to read Ephesians with new eyes -- thinking of these stones and wondering if I stepped on one where the Apostle himself stood -- moves me. The people here are incredibly hospitable. It has been typical everywhere that at the conclusion of a tour there is a gauntlet of shops and peddlers selling local wares. As Matt and I walked down toward the bus, a peddler approached selling spices. I had left my purse on the bus and thought it the simplest things to say --- I had no money. When I said this the peddler simply gave me a packet of Saffron. I protested, but he insisted I take it. Where else might this happen? Anyone who comes will have their preconceived notions about the Muslims turned on its ear. The bus driver had a small step stool which made it easier for her to climb into the bus. Tan made sure that she was accommodated and when we left I fluffed her hair and we ditched the chair as Bunny had instructed. Apparently a young man made a pass at her while we were gone. He explained that age is unimportant in relationships. He took Kathy to meet his cousins who ran a number of stands at the market. While we were on the walking tour of this fabulous site Kathy was able to buy a number of items she had hoped to find. She was waiting in comfort at the end of our tour having had some coffee in a local cafe.
Matt and I were treated to an excellent historical presentation by Tan. He pointed out that excavation here is an ongoing. Just 10 years ago much of that which we saw was still underneath the surface. He explained that the three columns just next to us were uncovered last year at an expense of 6 million. He was quick to thank Ericcson, Boston University, New York Metropolitan Museum and British Museum for the money that they kick in to the purpose of excavation. Tan explains who the river deposited silt into the bay and ultimately the area became a swamp which meant that there was malaria and other mosquito borne diseases-- which meant that the city was ultimately abandoned --- of course seismic activity was another reason for the abandonment of the city. But this city was a great trading center for centuries from around 3 b.c. until the destruction by earthquake several centuries after Christ.
Tan also pointed out other interesting things like the sewer pipe which was exposed --- it measured the same size as a modern American sewer pipe for a city this size! The gauge on train tracks is the same as the measure of the distance between the wheels of a standard Roman cart! He pointed out as did our guide in Lindos that many of the things that were done thousands of years ago remain largely unchanged today. Even the news on Aljazeera about Lebanese Elections spoke to this. In Lebanon people must travel to the city of origin to vote ((just like Mary and Joseph - traveling to point of origin for census!).
Tan was careful to put us in the shade whenever he stopped to tell us about various spots. It was a stroke of good luck to have the baby born today!! He always pointed out the best vantage point for photos. When we arrived at the amphitheater we passed the library which was undergoing reconstruction.. Tan explained that the library originally had 3 floors to it, and included an underground passage to the bordello across the street --- so that men could tell their wives they were going to the library and then enjoy one of the prostitutes from the city. Another interesting feature is a blue crane. Apparently, when Sting performed here to benefit the excavations and reconstruction -- so many people were jumping up and down that they cracked an important support in the Colosseum! So now it is being repaired.
Everywhere along the path were hollyhocks and red poppies, sedums blooming, and clover. The pomegranate trees are in bloom, and we have learned that this tree is an important symbol of fertility in this region. It is interesting to see in this part of the world what happens to hibiscus, pomegranates and other shrubs that I have seen in the U.S. I suppose that since it doesn't ever freeze in these countries things that are only bushes at home turn into real trees. On Mykanos I saw a Hibiscus with a trunk that was 6 inches thick and the blooms and leaves were overhead! This is true as well with pomegranates. Cats wandered the ruins here too, and one of the French-Canadians shrieked as one of them brushed up against her. The sun continued to bear down on us and perspiration began to form on my brow. When we returned to the bus I drank most of the water provided for me at the beginning of the trip. Our bus was airconditioned, and soon were on the way to lunch at a beautiful 5 star resort hotel on the mountainside overlooking the bay.
We were treated to a variety of Turkish foods featuring cucumbers, eggplant, lamb, chicken, fabulous deserts and many vegetables -- olives are served in oil with orange slices. Lots of dill and yogurt are present in refreshing abundance, and then there are the deserts --- Baklava, of course, but also many very light souffle like custards, and cakes that are very creamy, in addition to creme puffs and other European delights. We were asked not to drink anything with ice or water while we were on the mainland of Turkey --- but that has been true also in Greece --- I forgot that admonition and had the iced Greek coffee in Mykanos and seem to be fine and we ate lots of local very delicious veggies.
I certainly am well fed on this trip --- at least this part of it --- though of course, I am walking a great deal. So I hope that I am being reasonable trying to take small helpings, but I am tasting many new things. Last night I chose the Sushi option at dinner, and that was delightful.
Following our meal we headed back onto the bus and went to a Carpet making establishment where they explained how the carpets are made. The wools, silks and cottons are all dyed with vegetable dyes as they have been in ancient times. They offered us various drinks (I choose apple tea -- a local specialty). Matt was the only person in the entire group to try to local liquor drink Raki -- which is about 50% alcohol--He was a bit unsteady at the end but very happy! One of the workers as they rolled out the carpets was able to toss them into the air to make them into true flying carpets. One of the round ones was easily spun pizza-style!
Following the presentation we were descended upon by salespeople. This was something that we found in the markets where shop keepers besieged us. People worked the crowd and really pursued you to get you into their shops. It is not an easy life --- I am sure. Matt found a cafe where there was Wi-Fi and we sat and had some water, coke and coffee, and Kathy and I walked among the shops --- There are beautiful leather goods, jewelry, and many pashmina shawls and clothes. We returned to the ship and set sail around 5:00 p.m.
Tomorrow is a sea day and the day after we will arrive in Egypt.
Worshipping Athena in Lindos
Up at 5:45 a.m. Our tour was to leave at 7:00 a.m., but actually it left at 7:45 so we could have slept a bit later. We met in the Anchors Aweigh lounge forward and then left the ship by bus for Lindos. The journey took nearly one hour. I couldn't help but think how much this road and the terrain looked like the desert near Kathy's and my childhood home, Victorville, California. But then my eyes would wonder across the road and there was the expanse of Mediterranean sea that was so beautiful.
Our guide, Maria Morava, is excellent and she discussed the history of this area from earliest times until today.
She explained that it rains heavily here from October until May, but from May through the summer rainfall is rare. The Olive tree survives well under this extreme climate and requires no additional water. Until tourism became an industry here life was very difficult indeed. On the way there were many hotels along the beautiful beaches and apparently this is a vacation destination of many Europeans, but Lindos there are no hotels for it is an international historic site and all building must be consistent with the historic old buildings. These were mostly minimalistic squares of white. The bus stopped and we disembarked and caught a shuttle to the old town.
We began the walk almost immediately to the Acropolis. The old religion of the Greeks has things that carry over into the Greek Orthodox world even today. Maria explained that in the Greek Orthodox Church one does not see the alter -- just as in ancient times the alter to the God or Goddess was not viewed by the common people. Maria indicated that the screen with the icons that I have seen in Greek Orthodox chapels sits in front of the alter which is only slightly visible when the priest comes out during the service. June 6th, today is not only D-Day's anniversary, but here on Lindos, it is a day to celebrate the virgin and they offer to the virgin a mixture of wheat, spices, fruit and nuts just as might have been offered to Athena in ancient times. She offered us some which I found very dry but delicious. Just as in ancient times people bring their offerings to God.
When the acropolis was in use these offerings would have included food, flowers, money, jewelry. You would have offered your best. Originally there were no steps up to the Acropolis, but during the 3rd century B.C. the Greeks had colonies all over the known world and much wealth was brought home. At that time the steps we climbed today were added to make access to the temple easier. Though as we climbed them, I did not think they made things easier. They were high, black marble and there are sheer drops on one side of the stairway which is about 5 feet across. I was astounded that there is not a railing on the side that is opposite the mountainside. Partway up women wearing black were unpacking their linens which they hoped to sell to us on our return trip. They had heavy packs that they carried up the steep stairway and they were laying them on the ground where they held them in place with stones carefully placed to expose the beautiful embroidery or cutwork.
It was strenuous and I found that I stopped several times to catch my breath and drink a bit of water. The sun was already blazing down and even though I had a white hat and good stiff breeze I was hot! I couldn't imagine making this hike when the daily temperature reaches 100-110 degrees. This is a typical day in August. Maria pointed out once we reached the summit that there were covered porticoes in ancient times to help keep people cool. She also pointed out the way back to the bus. We must pass the church in order to reach the original destination, and it was easy to get lost in the maze of streets. I hesitate to label them streets. The are so narrow that no cars could pass here, just donkeys and carts. In fact we were offered "taxis." For just 5 euro we could ride a donkey to the top. Donkeys and goats are everywhere in Greece.
Where there were dogs in Athens there are cats on Mykanos and Rhodes. As we continued up to the actual sanctuary, a mother cat ascended the stairs in front of us. She had something large in her mouth and was calling to her kittens to come to dinner. None of these cats looks like American cats --- they are all skinny and look pretty unhealthy, but even though it is clear that the mother was herself very hungry -- like a good mother she fed her babies first!
Just when I thought Matt and I had reached the top -- there was another set of stairs in front of us. Matt stayed right with me, Kathy sent him to accompany me to keep me safe.....hmmm this certainly made me feel very old! Once on the top we were treated to amazing vistas in every direction. Throughout the temple area are many blocks of marble with footprints. These were the bases of many statues which are now in foreign museums. Maria described how this temple to Athena would have appeared in the 3rd century B.C. It was build out of sandstone blocks which were fitted together without mortar. This made it possible for the stones to shift without falling during seismic events! The columns had round holes in the center stones where the Greeks put cypress poles between two column stones to help hold them top of together - one on top of another. So if they were shaken down it was easy enough to re-assemble them.
At the beginning of the last century archaeologists thought they would reconstruct the building using concrete as mortar and rebar to hold the columns. What happened in 1957 when there was a great quake -- was that the archaeologists learned why the ancients used the materials they did! Isn't it amazing when we think we have everything figured out and feel superior to the past --- we are often humbled.
After some time at the top we headed down the hillside arriving at the bus just in time to leave. Kathy was perky and energetic having enjoyed several coffees in the cool tavernas at the city center. Matt and I were pretty well done in! When we arrived back at the ship I really wanted to wash up before we went out -- but as soon as I got cooled off -- we headed for the old town in Rhodes where we had a marvelous meal at a restaurant just past the ruins of an ancient church. We shared a Greek Salad and a combination plate that had a stuffed pepper, domaki, moussaka, and that unique cucumber and yogurt dip with cucumbers.... Matt had spaghetti.....Then we had a Greek dessert that was a cross between a cake and a cream. The cafe had free internet so I was able to upload my blog, check out my email clear some of it out---
We walked around several streets of the old town and I found some glue to fix my shoe! Back at the ship we showered and napped a bit before dinner. It is odd to eat so late. I enjoyed the sushi bar tonight for dinner. Off to bed and tomorrow we will visit Ephesus. Seems appropriate it is Sunday and it is a perfect day to contemplate Paul.
Our guide, Maria Morava, is excellent and she discussed the history of this area from earliest times until today.
She explained that it rains heavily here from October until May, but from May through the summer rainfall is rare. The Olive tree survives well under this extreme climate and requires no additional water. Until tourism became an industry here life was very difficult indeed. On the way there were many hotels along the beautiful beaches and apparently this is a vacation destination of many Europeans, but Lindos there are no hotels for it is an international historic site and all building must be consistent with the historic old buildings. These were mostly minimalistic squares of white. The bus stopped and we disembarked and caught a shuttle to the old town.
We began the walk almost immediately to the Acropolis. The old religion of the Greeks has things that carry over into the Greek Orthodox world even today. Maria explained that in the Greek Orthodox Church one does not see the alter -- just as in ancient times the alter to the God or Goddess was not viewed by the common people. Maria indicated that the screen with the icons that I have seen in Greek Orthodox chapels sits in front of the alter which is only slightly visible when the priest comes out during the service. June 6th, today is not only D-Day's anniversary, but here on Lindos, it is a day to celebrate the virgin and they offer to the virgin a mixture of wheat, spices, fruit and nuts just as might have been offered to Athena in ancient times. She offered us some which I found very dry but delicious. Just as in ancient times people bring their offerings to God.
When the acropolis was in use these offerings would have included food, flowers, money, jewelry. You would have offered your best. Originally there were no steps up to the Acropolis, but during the 3rd century B.C. the Greeks had colonies all over the known world and much wealth was brought home. At that time the steps we climbed today were added to make access to the temple easier. Though as we climbed them, I did not think they made things easier. They were high, black marble and there are sheer drops on one side of the stairway which is about 5 feet across. I was astounded that there is not a railing on the side that is opposite the mountainside. Partway up women wearing black were unpacking their linens which they hoped to sell to us on our return trip. They had heavy packs that they carried up the steep stairway and they were laying them on the ground where they held them in place with stones carefully placed to expose the beautiful embroidery or cutwork.
It was strenuous and I found that I stopped several times to catch my breath and drink a bit of water. The sun was already blazing down and even though I had a white hat and good stiff breeze I was hot! I couldn't imagine making this hike when the daily temperature reaches 100-110 degrees. This is a typical day in August. Maria pointed out once we reached the summit that there were covered porticoes in ancient times to help keep people cool. She also pointed out the way back to the bus. We must pass the church in order to reach the original destination, and it was easy to get lost in the maze of streets. I hesitate to label them streets. The are so narrow that no cars could pass here, just donkeys and carts. In fact we were offered "taxis." For just 5 euro we could ride a donkey to the top. Donkeys and goats are everywhere in Greece.
Where there were dogs in Athens there are cats on Mykanos and Rhodes. As we continued up to the actual sanctuary, a mother cat ascended the stairs in front of us. She had something large in her mouth and was calling to her kittens to come to dinner. None of these cats looks like American cats --- they are all skinny and look pretty unhealthy, but even though it is clear that the mother was herself very hungry -- like a good mother she fed her babies first!
Just when I thought Matt and I had reached the top -- there was another set of stairs in front of us. Matt stayed right with me, Kathy sent him to accompany me to keep me safe.....hmmm this certainly made me feel very old! Once on the top we were treated to amazing vistas in every direction. Throughout the temple area are many blocks of marble with footprints. These were the bases of many statues which are now in foreign museums. Maria described how this temple to Athena would have appeared in the 3rd century B.C. It was build out of sandstone blocks which were fitted together without mortar. This made it possible for the stones to shift without falling during seismic events! The columns had round holes in the center stones where the Greeks put cypress poles between two column stones to help hold them top of together - one on top of another. So if they were shaken down it was easy enough to re-assemble them.
At the beginning of the last century archaeologists thought they would reconstruct the building using concrete as mortar and rebar to hold the columns. What happened in 1957 when there was a great quake -- was that the archaeologists learned why the ancients used the materials they did! Isn't it amazing when we think we have everything figured out and feel superior to the past --- we are often humbled.
After some time at the top we headed down the hillside arriving at the bus just in time to leave. Kathy was perky and energetic having enjoyed several coffees in the cool tavernas at the city center. Matt and I were pretty well done in! When we arrived back at the ship I really wanted to wash up before we went out -- but as soon as I got cooled off -- we headed for the old town in Rhodes where we had a marvelous meal at a restaurant just past the ruins of an ancient church. We shared a Greek Salad and a combination plate that had a stuffed pepper, domaki, moussaka, and that unique cucumber and yogurt dip with cucumbers.... Matt had spaghetti.....Then we had a Greek dessert that was a cross between a cake and a cream. The cafe had free internet so I was able to upload my blog, check out my email clear some of it out---
We walked around several streets of the old town and I found some glue to fix my shoe! Back at the ship we showered and napped a bit before dinner. It is odd to eat so late. I enjoyed the sushi bar tonight for dinner. Off to bed and tomorrow we will visit Ephesus. Seems appropriate it is Sunday and it is a perfect day to contemplate Paul.
Saturday, June 06, 2009
Mykanos, Greece
Last night, we were trying to find news that would give us information about what was happening at home. On the T.V. there is a Bloomberg channel -- but we cannot get CNN or BBC -- which is puzzling since we get a Russian version of CNN. They have taken the CNN turning globe only put it in red and even used a bit of the music! Too bad we cannot get this in U.S. It is easy to see propaganda -- of course we have our own propaganda in our T.V. but it is not as easily detected. For example there has been a series since we have been on board about Pioneers of Science --- they are all Russian --- for example -- there is the pioneer of space rackets --- he turns out to be a guy who thought about rockets --- but not a real scientist who experimented with them like Goddard -- The commentator says that he was considered a dreamer in his time.....but they make no mention of Goddard. We asked at the desk about why we cannot pull in CNN and they said it had to do with the satellites --- So I guess if you are on this side of the world you only get a one-sided view of what is happening. Maybe not so different than in the US where you only get BBC and Us news agencies.
We woke at 8:00 a.m. and then went down to breakfast. We asked for Matt to get a wake-up call at 9:00, but when he didn't show for breakfast -- I went back to our cabin and called him. He didn't answer, but after about 10 more minutes I called again and he answered very groggy. We left at about 10:45 or so. Each time you leave the ship you have to scan in your pass so that they know you are not on board. We boarded a bus for old town Mykanos and found ourselves walking toward the city center very quickly. Looking back we could see the big ship --- the largest in the harbor so much easier to find than in Athens where it was one of many large ships!
Walking along we encountered a group of school children with an adult who were cleaning up trash and caring for and watering plants along the roadside. They had a sign that said, "save the planet." So it is clear that the entire world is rising to the occasion when it comes to caring for our world. It was heartening to see, But it was also sad to see how many tourists had left their trash beside the road.
It is easy to see why the colors of Greece are blue and white. The blue of the see against the white of the buildings. They look very much like the homes in New Mexico except that they are whitewashed --- the same blue doors and shutters though make this feel like it is not so foreign. We stopped at a cafe with a very accommodating waitress--and a resident butterscotch cat. Kathy and Matt ordered sodas --- but I asked for coffee. Anna asked if I wanted American coffee. I said I wanted Greek Coffee--she asked if I wanted it hot or iced. I again indicated a preference to drink what the average Greek would be drinking. She said, a Greek would definitely choose iced for summer. So that is what I got. It was not bitter, but not too sweet either. It was very frothy and creamy....and quite refreshing. Anna indicated that I would be wired by this coffee, but I did not feel the jolt. There were several old Greeks at the table next to us....who seemed to approve of my choice. One of them rode away on a donkey after he had finished his coffee.
As I finished, Kathy asked if I would go and look for a shirt for her with the windmills of Mykanos on it for her. I walked through a maze of what are not much wider than a broad hallway, occasionally opening up onto plakas. Everyone has glass especially glass with the ever-present eye in blue glass--It is like the eye of God -- the evil eye and is seen as a protector. There are little chapels with domes, and I wondered into a icon shop which had icons of every description. I looked for a shirt that was very light weight -- but would keep me from burning. Even with the 85 sunscreen yesterday I burned a bit -- I found several Christmas gifts and the shirt, but this is the first thing I have bought that was souvenir-ish.
We headed for the bus to catch a ride to the beach.The ride to the beach was great as we climbed up to the very top of the island and then down to the beach. I found a school, a field of hay with rather large birds which I didn't recognize in it, homes of ordinary Greeks as well as new construction that looked like it would find its way on the Better Homes & Garden T.V. programs for people buying vacation homes in far-flung places. Older women here seem to dress in Black.....I wonder why? There are also rock walls built everywhere. They do not follow straight lines but they divide up the terrain in an odd patchwork. I don't see any indication of use for these walls --- they are a mystery --- perhaps when have Internet access I will be able to find out about them. There are windmills in many of the little communities and many many many little chapels -- tiny --- some part of homes --- each with its own dome and cross!
The hills are brown and many of the bushes are dead, but some things like bougainvillea thrive and look all the more beautiful because of the striking colors. Hibiscus are actually trained into trees here, along with trumpet vine, and something that looks like Clematis. In Athens there were stunning trees with lavender blooms --- I do not know what they were, but I did not see them here on Mykanos.
When we got down to the beach --we asked when the bus would return. This was a very good thing because the bus would return after 5:00 p.m. to pick us up -- which was after the ship left port! So we turned around and went back by the same route to the little port. Where we had lunch. Kathy and I enjoyed a Greek Salad with the best olives and Feta Cheese I have ever had. We also s dolmadake (sp) stuffed grape leaves.
We returned to the ship and set sail. We watched the sunset in the Mediterranean. Just before sunset there was the most amazing display of dolphins jumping along side the ship. There was a whole school of them swimming along with us for a time. The sun as it set almost equally divided the sea and sky . The only way to clearly tell which was the water and the sky was that the water carried a gold line of reflection in the turquoise water. The breeze was beautiful and the water was smooth. Tomorrow we see Rhodes.
We woke at 8:00 a.m. and then went down to breakfast. We asked for Matt to get a wake-up call at 9:00, but when he didn't show for breakfast -- I went back to our cabin and called him. He didn't answer, but after about 10 more minutes I called again and he answered very groggy. We left at about 10:45 or so. Each time you leave the ship you have to scan in your pass so that they know you are not on board. We boarded a bus for old town Mykanos and found ourselves walking toward the city center very quickly. Looking back we could see the big ship --- the largest in the harbor so much easier to find than in Athens where it was one of many large ships!
Walking along we encountered a group of school children with an adult who were cleaning up trash and caring for and watering plants along the roadside. They had a sign that said, "save the planet." So it is clear that the entire world is rising to the occasion when it comes to caring for our world. It was heartening to see, But it was also sad to see how many tourists had left their trash beside the road.
It is easy to see why the colors of Greece are blue and white. The blue of the see against the white of the buildings. They look very much like the homes in New Mexico except that they are whitewashed --- the same blue doors and shutters though make this feel like it is not so foreign. We stopped at a cafe with a very accommodating waitress--and a resident butterscotch cat. Kathy and Matt ordered sodas --- but I asked for coffee. Anna asked if I wanted American coffee. I said I wanted Greek Coffee--she asked if I wanted it hot or iced. I again indicated a preference to drink what the average Greek would be drinking. She said, a Greek would definitely choose iced for summer. So that is what I got. It was not bitter, but not too sweet either. It was very frothy and creamy....and quite refreshing. Anna indicated that I would be wired by this coffee, but I did not feel the jolt. There were several old Greeks at the table next to us....who seemed to approve of my choice. One of them rode away on a donkey after he had finished his coffee.
As I finished, Kathy asked if I would go and look for a shirt for her with the windmills of Mykanos on it for her. I walked through a maze of what are not much wider than a broad hallway, occasionally opening up onto plakas. Everyone has glass especially glass with the ever-present eye in blue glass--It is like the eye of God -- the evil eye and is seen as a protector. There are little chapels with domes, and I wondered into a icon shop which had icons of every description. I looked for a shirt that was very light weight -- but would keep me from burning. Even with the 85 sunscreen yesterday I burned a bit -- I found several Christmas gifts and the shirt, but this is the first thing I have bought that was souvenir-ish.
We headed for the bus to catch a ride to the beach.The ride to the beach was great as we climbed up to the very top of the island and then down to the beach. I found a school, a field of hay with rather large birds which I didn't recognize in it, homes of ordinary Greeks as well as new construction that looked like it would find its way on the Better Homes & Garden T.V. programs for people buying vacation homes in far-flung places. Older women here seem to dress in Black.....I wonder why? There are also rock walls built everywhere. They do not follow straight lines but they divide up the terrain in an odd patchwork. I don't see any indication of use for these walls --- they are a mystery --- perhaps when have Internet access I will be able to find out about them. There are windmills in many of the little communities and many many many little chapels -- tiny --- some part of homes --- each with its own dome and cross!
The hills are brown and many of the bushes are dead, but some things like bougainvillea thrive and look all the more beautiful because of the striking colors. Hibiscus are actually trained into trees here, along with trumpet vine, and something that looks like Clematis. In Athens there were stunning trees with lavender blooms --- I do not know what they were, but I did not see them here on Mykanos.
When we got down to the beach --we asked when the bus would return. This was a very good thing because the bus would return after 5:00 p.m. to pick us up -- which was after the ship left port! So we turned around and went back by the same route to the little port. Where we had lunch. Kathy and I enjoyed a Greek Salad with the best olives and Feta Cheese I have ever had. We also s dolmadake (sp) stuffed grape leaves.
We returned to the ship and set sail. We watched the sunset in the Mediterranean. Just before sunset there was the most amazing display of dolphins jumping along side the ship. There was a whole school of them swimming along with us for a time. The sun as it set almost equally divided the sea and sky . The only way to clearly tell which was the water and the sky was that the water carried a gold line of reflection in the turquoise water. The breeze was beautiful and the water was smooth. Tomorrow we see Rhodes.
Friday, June 05, 2009
Athens from the TOP!!!
Athens -- up early - we left before any of the tours. Our panoramic tour of Athens didn't start until 1:30 from the ship-- so Kathy did not want us to waste the day away. When we got out on the port there were many cabbies ---waiting. When she told the cab driver where she wanted to go he tried to talk her out of that destination. She wanted to go to the Plaka (old town or plaza just beneath the Acropolis. The Cab driver told us that nothing opened until 10;00 a.m. That is probably why the tours don't leave until 9:30.
The driver told her it wouldbe $20 Euro and it should only have been around 9 Euro -- But he insisted that the morning traffic would be too difficult so that is why it is more. We found ourselves going in and out of side streets moving through traffic in ways that I have only heard of in books! Like all ancient cities -- the streets seem to radiate in all directions from the shore -- like a web of streets --- I don't know how people find their way in this --- there is nothing that is North, South, East or West.
We arrived at the Dionysus Restuarant just as it was opening. The acropolis overlooks this restuarant. Star jasmine scented the air as we sat at a table under an umbrella. Kathy ordered us capacinos and Matt had coke. I sat trying to take in the fact that I was looking up at the real Parthenon. There was a lovely wide street made of marble leading down and winding around the hill to the Plaka. This is the oldest part of the city filled with many shops and cafes. After we explored a large segment of the area, we stopped at another cafe and had a seond round of coffee and coke. The waiter kindly brough us water with ice in it!! This is a real luxury -- especially since we did not ask for it. People seem so friendly and eager to please.
We made our way up to a large public square where a demonstration of some sort was going on --- maybe it is firemen or some other profession that rescues people because they are dressed in uniforms similar to our firemen. It is quite peaceful. There are policement standing nearby --- one of them saw Kathy's wheelchair and hailed a cab for us. The first cab drove off when he thought the policeman wasn't looking --- but this guy is persistent and gets a seond cab to stop --- sometimes they do not like to carry the wheel chair. This fellow speaks less English than the one in the morning. Kathy handed him the port name (unfortunately -- it is written with English script -- Greek uses a cyrillic alphabet. It makes it impossible to read street signs --- though when the Olympics was here they must have put up these new signs --- for all the signs are in Greek and English.
Kathy does succeed in conveying to him that we need to get to the port, so Matt helped out with with some German which the man seems to understand about big ships. We feel lucky to be back in time for lunch and were able to make our connection for the afternoon tour. I was very glad that we went alone in the morning, because much of this tour is unsatisfying. There is only one stop and that was the Ollympic Grounds from 2004. I should have photographed it for my friend, the P.E. teacher, Darlene Nall, but it was not of particular interest to me. There were no stops at any of the spots that were historic until we got to the Acropolis. It was not too hot today--only in the 80's. We were told not to climb to the top. There would not be time --- it was steep and difficult and somewhat dangerous according to our guide --- but I couldn't come to the base of the acropolis and not make the attempt. I decided to begin the ascent and see how far I could get. We had only an hour at this stop for people to take photos and shop the souvenir shops....
I began the climb ---the steps were ancient marble --- worn and uneven---no handrails---but not so high as to be too challenging. I thought since I made the 200 plus steps to the top of Neuschwanstien Castle --- I could do this. When I reached the spot where the climb became really strenuous I had to pay 12 Euro to go up. Each step brought me closer to the remarkable vista which awaited at the top. I could look over the entire city of Athens and out to the sea. I could imagine ancient sailors arriving and looking up that this impressive temple with the statue of Athena glinting gold in the sun saying to all -- I am a powerful goddess. I protect the city. Do nothing to harm my city! It must have been impressive indeed as the huge doors swung open to reveal her presence.
The marble ruins look small from below --- but they are huge when you stand next to them. Dotting the path up the hill were what I assume to be olive trees. Knarled trunks and silver/green leaves, oleander, and star jasmine and a flower I did not recognize, but I took a photo of for later identification. I had an overwhelming urge to sit and ponder at the top -- but knew that I would miss the bus back to port if I did so and potentially cause distress to my friends, so all too quickly after taking photos I began my descent. Dogs are everywhere in the city and many lie sleeping on the path up to the acroplis. Perhaps people leave food offerings for them here. Some of them have collars, but many are obvious strays. It gave new meaning to the saying, "Let sleeping dogs lie!"
I was maybe five minutes late to the bus, but I was relieved to see that I was not the last straggler --- and I didn't divulge that I had been tot he top!
We were weary travelers as we returned to the ship. We sat and drank lemonade on the deck enjoying the cool sea breeze-- we had an early dinner (7:00) our regular formal seating is at 8:30...We retired earlier than on previous nights and planned to sleep until 8:00 a.m. by which time we should be docked at Mykanos.
The driver told her it wouldbe $20 Euro and it should only have been around 9 Euro -- But he insisted that the morning traffic would be too difficult so that is why it is more. We found ourselves going in and out of side streets moving through traffic in ways that I have only heard of in books! Like all ancient cities -- the streets seem to radiate in all directions from the shore -- like a web of streets --- I don't know how people find their way in this --- there is nothing that is North, South, East or West.
We arrived at the Dionysus Restuarant just as it was opening. The acropolis overlooks this restuarant. Star jasmine scented the air as we sat at a table under an umbrella. Kathy ordered us capacinos and Matt had coke. I sat trying to take in the fact that I was looking up at the real Parthenon. There was a lovely wide street made of marble leading down and winding around the hill to the Plaka. This is the oldest part of the city filled with many shops and cafes. After we explored a large segment of the area, we stopped at another cafe and had a seond round of coffee and coke. The waiter kindly brough us water with ice in it!! This is a real luxury -- especially since we did not ask for it. People seem so friendly and eager to please.
We made our way up to a large public square where a demonstration of some sort was going on --- maybe it is firemen or some other profession that rescues people because they are dressed in uniforms similar to our firemen. It is quite peaceful. There are policement standing nearby --- one of them saw Kathy's wheelchair and hailed a cab for us. The first cab drove off when he thought the policeman wasn't looking --- but this guy is persistent and gets a seond cab to stop --- sometimes they do not like to carry the wheel chair. This fellow speaks less English than the one in the morning. Kathy handed him the port name (unfortunately -- it is written with English script -- Greek uses a cyrillic alphabet. It makes it impossible to read street signs --- though when the Olympics was here they must have put up these new signs --- for all the signs are in Greek and English.
Kathy does succeed in conveying to him that we need to get to the port, so Matt helped out with with some German which the man seems to understand about big ships. We feel lucky to be back in time for lunch and were able to make our connection for the afternoon tour. I was very glad that we went alone in the morning, because much of this tour is unsatisfying. There is only one stop and that was the Ollympic Grounds from 2004. I should have photographed it for my friend, the P.E. teacher, Darlene Nall, but it was not of particular interest to me. There were no stops at any of the spots that were historic until we got to the Acropolis. It was not too hot today--only in the 80's. We were told not to climb to the top. There would not be time --- it was steep and difficult and somewhat dangerous according to our guide --- but I couldn't come to the base of the acropolis and not make the attempt. I decided to begin the ascent and see how far I could get. We had only an hour at this stop for people to take photos and shop the souvenir shops....
I began the climb ---the steps were ancient marble --- worn and uneven---no handrails---but not so high as to be too challenging. I thought since I made the 200 plus steps to the top of Neuschwanstien Castle --- I could do this. When I reached the spot where the climb became really strenuous I had to pay 12 Euro to go up. Each step brought me closer to the remarkable vista which awaited at the top. I could look over the entire city of Athens and out to the sea. I could imagine ancient sailors arriving and looking up that this impressive temple with the statue of Athena glinting gold in the sun saying to all -- I am a powerful goddess. I protect the city. Do nothing to harm my city! It must have been impressive indeed as the huge doors swung open to reveal her presence.
The marble ruins look small from below --- but they are huge when you stand next to them. Dotting the path up the hill were what I assume to be olive trees. Knarled trunks and silver/green leaves, oleander, and star jasmine and a flower I did not recognize, but I took a photo of for later identification. I had an overwhelming urge to sit and ponder at the top -- but knew that I would miss the bus back to port if I did so and potentially cause distress to my friends, so all too quickly after taking photos I began my descent. Dogs are everywhere in the city and many lie sleeping on the path up to the acroplis. Perhaps people leave food offerings for them here. Some of them have collars, but many are obvious strays. It gave new meaning to the saying, "Let sleeping dogs lie!"
I was maybe five minutes late to the bus, but I was relieved to see that I was not the last straggler --- and I didn't divulge that I had been tot he top!
We were weary travelers as we returned to the ship. We sat and drank lemonade on the deck enjoying the cool sea breeze-- we had an early dinner (7:00) our regular formal seating is at 8:30...We retired earlier than on previous nights and planned to sleep until 8:00 a.m. by which time we should be docked at Mykanos.
Thursday, June 04, 2009
Sea Day
The cruise ship is amazing --- it is like a floating city with everything you might want. The library is richly appointed with trey ceilings, inlaid woods, leather sofas and furniture of the Louis XVI style. The colors however, are dated circa 1980s (pink/turquoise) so this is an older ship/decore.
Everything is kept pristine . The brass balustrades are polished daily. The cabin crew cleans our cabins completely several times a day. Today Susan left a darling towel that was folded into the shape of a dog with floppy ears.....on our bed. Clearly she had cleaned the sink (polished) several times -- This is especially impressive since I know that at home -- there are socks on the floor, dishes in the sink and unmade beds.
Today was a "sea day" which means that we have been underway since last night speeding along at 22 knots and we will not reach Athens until 8:00 a.m. in the morning! We were discussing our perceptions about the Mediterranean sea -- Our history experience makes us think that Greece Rome were nearly neighbors -- but clearly they weren't -- I am thinking how long a trip it must have been when you couldn't travel at 22 knots.
The clouds come and go -- there are short periods of sun, but at no time is it truly hot! This is not a problem for me! After breakfast, I went up to the top deck. There is a track around the ship where people are jogging. Around the perimeter are deck chairs where people are trying to bake in the sun. It is such a pleasure to lie on one of these while the sun peeps in and out of the clouds and the wind blows across me in the most delightful way. The water is ultramarine and as the ship churns up the waves there is a long white trail into the distance. Dancing among the churned-up white waves is a color very much the same as cerulean mixed with and permelba white -- It is truly unexpected. Perhaps it is the size of the ship ...or perhaps this is unique to this sea.....
I slipped into a suit and spent a good hour in the whirlpool beside the pool. A salsa dance instruction is being given poolside as well, and it is fun to watch people abandon their inhibitions and give dance a try. There were two couples there -- one from Florida-- They work at Pensacola Christian College -- (He teaches bible and perhaps Greek) He is an expert in many things...He indicated that they are experimenting with growing their own vegetables and even animals. I perked up assuming that he was interested in organic gardening, but then it became clear that this was not the case. He seemed interested in producing his own food. I mentioned the slow food movement..to which he responded that it would not be possible to have tomatoes year round or some fruits....this told me that he had not read anything about the reason one might want to eat only seasonally.....so I pursued that no further. They had been through one of the hurricanes and the description was full of bravado.
The other couple are quiet. They live in Colorado. After a long soak it began to rain and I got out to pick up my towel and jacket before they got wet again. Lunch was in the windjammer cafe. The spreads are remarkable in their extent and variety. How they prepare food for 2,000 people in such elegance and the quantity (always small and artistically displayed) is quite mysterious to me....but there it is appearing with great regularity.
I went down to the library and wrote down yesterdays experiences since I was too exhausted to write it down at the end of the day yesterday. While I was there I met a retired architect who had been a librarian as well. She was from Vancouver where her husband had been a college professor. We spent some time discussing the profession and how it has changed. She graduated from Berkley....before computers were much on the scene.
Kathy and Matt and I met to eat at about 7:00 p.m. We could not attend the dinner this evening, because we had no formal clothing so we grazed the buffet. When I went out later in the evening, it felt a bit like Halloween to me --- Perhaps the older ladies are remembering how they looked in their youth. Many are poured into their gowns as though they were sausage casings. They are wearing spaghetti straps and look a bit garish with flapping triceps! The men on the other hand all look fine, because a suit just doesn't expose aging body parts!
Tomorrow we will be in Athens where I will see the Acropolis!
Everything is kept pristine . The brass balustrades are polished daily. The cabin crew cleans our cabins completely several times a day. Today Susan left a darling towel that was folded into the shape of a dog with floppy ears.....on our bed. Clearly she had cleaned the sink (polished) several times -- This is especially impressive since I know that at home -- there are socks on the floor, dishes in the sink and unmade beds.
Today was a "sea day" which means that we have been underway since last night speeding along at 22 knots and we will not reach Athens until 8:00 a.m. in the morning! We were discussing our perceptions about the Mediterranean sea -- Our history experience makes us think that Greece Rome were nearly neighbors -- but clearly they weren't -- I am thinking how long a trip it must have been when you couldn't travel at 22 knots.
The clouds come and go -- there are short periods of sun, but at no time is it truly hot! This is not a problem for me! After breakfast, I went up to the top deck. There is a track around the ship where people are jogging. Around the perimeter are deck chairs where people are trying to bake in the sun. It is such a pleasure to lie on one of these while the sun peeps in and out of the clouds and the wind blows across me in the most delightful way. The water is ultramarine and as the ship churns up the waves there is a long white trail into the distance. Dancing among the churned-up white waves is a color very much the same as cerulean mixed with and permelba white -- It is truly unexpected. Perhaps it is the size of the ship ...or perhaps this is unique to this sea.....
I slipped into a suit and spent a good hour in the whirlpool beside the pool. A salsa dance instruction is being given poolside as well, and it is fun to watch people abandon their inhibitions and give dance a try. There were two couples there -- one from Florida-- They work at Pensacola Christian College -- (He teaches bible and perhaps Greek) He is an expert in many things...He indicated that they are experimenting with growing their own vegetables and even animals. I perked up assuming that he was interested in organic gardening, but then it became clear that this was not the case. He seemed interested in producing his own food. I mentioned the slow food movement..to which he responded that it would not be possible to have tomatoes year round or some fruits....this told me that he had not read anything about the reason one might want to eat only seasonally.....so I pursued that no further. They had been through one of the hurricanes and the description was full of bravado.
The other couple are quiet. They live in Colorado. After a long soak it began to rain and I got out to pick up my towel and jacket before they got wet again. Lunch was in the windjammer cafe. The spreads are remarkable in their extent and variety. How they prepare food for 2,000 people in such elegance and the quantity (always small and artistically displayed) is quite mysterious to me....but there it is appearing with great regularity.
I went down to the library and wrote down yesterdays experiences since I was too exhausted to write it down at the end of the day yesterday. While I was there I met a retired architect who had been a librarian as well. She was from Vancouver where her husband had been a college professor. We spent some time discussing the profession and how it has changed. She graduated from Berkley....before computers were much on the scene.
Kathy and Matt and I met to eat at about 7:00 p.m. We could not attend the dinner this evening, because we had no formal clothing so we grazed the buffet. When I went out later in the evening, it felt a bit like Halloween to me --- Perhaps the older ladies are remembering how they looked in their youth. Many are poured into their gowns as though they were sausage casings. They are wearing spaghetti straps and look a bit garish with flapping triceps! The men on the other hand all look fine, because a suit just doesn't expose aging body parts!
Tomorrow we will be in Athens where I will see the Acropolis!
Wednesday, June 03, 2009
The ocean is wide and my ship is huge!
First day aboard ship was a bit hectic, because of the confusion of our arrival. Kathy was so frustrated last night worrying about not making the tours she had wanted that she did not go to sleep until about 1:00 a.m. Then we were up at 6:00 to be in line at the excursion desk to book the day's tours. Clearly we should have booked these on-line -- but since this cruise was a last minute choice that was not possible for us. BUT should you ever book a cruise do this on line before hand.
We were fortunate to be able to book the tour that Kathy wanted and the ones that Matt and I were going to go on. Then it was a rush to get Kathy on the tour bus -- We took the elevator down to 1st floor. Even though I was turning around and coming right back --- I had to swipe my card indicating I was leaving the ship...and go through the process on returning -- going through security and all --- but that seemed like very little to pay for the opportunity of a lifetime
I came back up to the stateroom which is very small, but efficient. The Stateroom we had was on the 6th deck -- but it was a long walk down the hall from the exit and Kathy always prefers to be near an exit where she can climb down the stairs if an emergency arrives so we switched with Matt --- and our current stateroom was designed for a single resident -- since the bed is up against the wall --- which means I must crawl over the end to get out--- And it is smaller -- but we are able to organize our stuff sufficiently to make the space comfortable. --- We are spending most of our time on board outside the room anyway.
In the early afternoon Matt and I took the tour to Herculaneum. We passed the infirmary and saw that they were dispensing seasickness pills for free --- The dispensary smells like any Doctor's office -- there is a small waiting room -- no one is there -- so hopefully that is a good sign. We learned that there are nearly
2000 people on board this cruise! We head out to the tour bus where we scan our cards in to indicate that we are leaving --and find Jose our tour guide. He is very Italian -- always calling us ladies and gentlemen --- and madame.....The rain is pouring from the sky and it is somewhat disappointing to realize that it will not be so pleasant wandering around the ruins. The fog hangs over Vesuvius as we traveled toward our destination.
On the way we stop at a tourist shop where a cameo carver works at a bench. He demonstrated the method by which he created the beautiful work that was sold in the shop next door. He is 78 and a genuine charmer --- when Jose calls him the master -- the old man points skyward shaking his head to indicate that it is God who is the master. I would love to have one of his pieces - but I restrain myself and do not spend the money --- I remind myself that it is the experience and the memory === not the stuff that will make this trip so valuable to me. I am reminded of the last trip when the Australians bought one of everything that the tour guide placed in our paths --- and I think that it would be easy to do that in this setting as well.
When we arrive at Herculaneum the rain seems to have slowed and we begin our descent into the ancient city --- It is a couple of hundred feet down -- because the pyroclastic flow buried the town. Then the skies opened up and water poured down. During our tour the rains continued to dump water everywhere then abruptly stop for a few moments lulling us into thinking that maybe the clouds would clear. On the bright side, it made it is easy to she how the ancient cisterns worked, and it also made it easy to see how the old city sewers drained into the sea! Home after home demonstrated that those who were wealthy lived very well indeed and those who served them, worked very hard indeed! The frescoes were beautiful in their detail and finesse. I hope the photos do them justice. But it is so hard to put yourself in a space using photographs-- even video does not give you a sense of it.
We saw the public baths, bathrooms, eateries, and other details. At one point water was streaming down my face from my hair --- my clothes were saturated--- I had clay on my pale green pants --- I looked a mess --- the tour guide looked at me and said, "Ah, Lady, it pains me to see you like this." Did I mention one of the other people gave me a plastic bag that I could tear and use to divert some of the water from my head.
The tour was actually one we could have taken Kathy on -- since there were not too many steps --- there was a long incline down which we could have got the wheelchair without too much difficulty -- When we got back I asked the purser why it says it is not wheel chair accessible-- She said it is because some people in wheel chairs cannot take steps at all --- and that they always err on the side of caution ... This is good information to have since -- It means that those outings that are marked as mildly strenuous are probably not strenuous at all.
We had our first sit-down dinner in the dinning room last night --- we had interesting seat mates. A young man and his wife --- who have just finished college -- a couple our age from Scotland, and a couple from Wales. The meal was outstanding and the conversation was directed by the young man who was very gregarious.
We were late to the 8:30 dinner time --- because our clock was off by nearly 45 minutes....so we were not even fashionably late--we were LATE -- but it was nice to have a beautifully appointed meal instead of buffet style. We retired and I crashed immediately -- the train problems from the day before and the uncertainty about our tickets took a toll!
We were fortunate to be able to book the tour that Kathy wanted and the ones that Matt and I were going to go on. Then it was a rush to get Kathy on the tour bus -- We took the elevator down to 1st floor. Even though I was turning around and coming right back --- I had to swipe my card indicating I was leaving the ship...and go through the process on returning -- going through security and all --- but that seemed like very little to pay for the opportunity of a lifetime
I came back up to the stateroom which is very small, but efficient. The Stateroom we had was on the 6th deck -- but it was a long walk down the hall from the exit and Kathy always prefers to be near an exit where she can climb down the stairs if an emergency arrives so we switched with Matt --- and our current stateroom was designed for a single resident -- since the bed is up against the wall --- which means I must crawl over the end to get out--- And it is smaller -- but we are able to organize our stuff sufficiently to make the space comfortable. --- We are spending most of our time on board outside the room anyway.
In the early afternoon Matt and I took the tour to Herculaneum. We passed the infirmary and saw that they were dispensing seasickness pills for free --- The dispensary smells like any Doctor's office -- there is a small waiting room -- no one is there -- so hopefully that is a good sign. We learned that there are nearly
2000 people on board this cruise! We head out to the tour bus where we scan our cards in to indicate that we are leaving --and find Jose our tour guide. He is very Italian -- always calling us ladies and gentlemen --- and madame.....The rain is pouring from the sky and it is somewhat disappointing to realize that it will not be so pleasant wandering around the ruins. The fog hangs over Vesuvius as we traveled toward our destination.
On the way we stop at a tourist shop where a cameo carver works at a bench. He demonstrated the method by which he created the beautiful work that was sold in the shop next door. He is 78 and a genuine charmer --- when Jose calls him the master -- the old man points skyward shaking his head to indicate that it is God who is the master. I would love to have one of his pieces - but I restrain myself and do not spend the money --- I remind myself that it is the experience and the memory === not the stuff that will make this trip so valuable to me. I am reminded of the last trip when the Australians bought one of everything that the tour guide placed in our paths --- and I think that it would be easy to do that in this setting as well.
When we arrive at Herculaneum the rain seems to have slowed and we begin our descent into the ancient city --- It is a couple of hundred feet down -- because the pyroclastic flow buried the town. Then the skies opened up and water poured down. During our tour the rains continued to dump water everywhere then abruptly stop for a few moments lulling us into thinking that maybe the clouds would clear. On the bright side, it made it is easy to she how the ancient cisterns worked, and it also made it easy to see how the old city sewers drained into the sea! Home after home demonstrated that those who were wealthy lived very well indeed and those who served them, worked very hard indeed! The frescoes were beautiful in their detail and finesse. I hope the photos do them justice. But it is so hard to put yourself in a space using photographs-- even video does not give you a sense of it.
We saw the public baths, bathrooms, eateries, and other details. At one point water was streaming down my face from my hair --- my clothes were saturated--- I had clay on my pale green pants --- I looked a mess --- the tour guide looked at me and said, "Ah, Lady, it pains me to see you like this." Did I mention one of the other people gave me a plastic bag that I could tear and use to divert some of the water from my head.
The tour was actually one we could have taken Kathy on -- since there were not too many steps --- there was a long incline down which we could have got the wheelchair without too much difficulty -- When we got back I asked the purser why it says it is not wheel chair accessible-- She said it is because some people in wheel chairs cannot take steps at all --- and that they always err on the side of caution ... This is good information to have since -- It means that those outings that are marked as mildly strenuous are probably not strenuous at all.
We had our first sit-down dinner in the dinning room last night --- we had interesting seat mates. A young man and his wife --- who have just finished college -- a couple our age from Scotland, and a couple from Wales. The meal was outstanding and the conversation was directed by the young man who was very gregarious.
We were late to the 8:30 dinner time --- because our clock was off by nearly 45 minutes....so we were not even fashionably late--we were LATE -- but it was nice to have a beautifully appointed meal instead of buffet style. We retired and I crashed immediately -- the train problems from the day before and the uncertainty about our tickets took a toll!
Tuesday, June 02, 2009
Rome to the High Seas!!
Rainy morning -- but beautifully comfortable other than that. Breakfast was chocolate croissant, coffee, fruit and for me two boiled eggs. Once again the appointments at table were lovely -- the ever-present creamy yellow linens, fine china and flowers! The rooms were quite comfortable --- standard European bathrooms with slippery marble floors, very high step up for the tub. The hand towels are linen -- not terry --- I did not remember this from our previous trip! I guess my face is like fine china and needs linen towels to wash and dry it!!!! The Lights and electricity in the room were initiated by inserting the card attached to the key into a slot next to the door.
Unlocking the door was a challenge --- we actually had to have the desk person come and help us. The door knobs do not turn at all, and the doors are metal. There is a second click in the lock that is the point at which one can enter. The windows opened onto a courtyard where we could see many apartment homes --- there were lemon, and other citrus trees on balconies and many flowers. The scent of star jasmine is almost overpowering. When we arrived we found that the hotel would open the entrance for deliveries so that Kathy didn't have to climb the stairs....Huge wrought-iron gates swung open and we entered a long narrow drive to the back of the hotel.
After a good night's sleep we headed out to the Vatican. The rain was drenching ---the crowd was cued up to enter and at 9:00 a.m. they opened the doors. The guards were very good about helping us get through all the barriers. As we head down the ramp to the crypt where the popes are buried --- it was truly treacherous. My sandals did not provide good traction and I found myself slipping along trying not to fall as Matt pushed Kathy in the chair. There were no rugs to help -- and no signs warning people either. The rounded cobblestones were also not only uneven -- but slick as well!
The crowds must be mostly Catholic since they were reverently quiet. An ancient nun was giving instructions on how to show respect as we entered. No one was permitted to take photos in the crypt. We made our way to the Basilica to the Pi eta and around the entire church! It is so overwhelmingly large and the marble and statuary command our attention. Unfortunately we were under time constraints and rushed through. Still, this time I tried to photograph different parts of the church than when I was here before... There were a number of side chapels with mass being said....but this may relate to a holiday which was being celebrated on June 1st. HOWEVER we could not find what holiday it was. Once we exited the Vatican it was pouring rain --- we walked along the cobblestone which was slick with water again.....until we found a taxi to take us back to Hotel delle Vittorie Piazza Mazzini.
( -- to pick up our luggage and head for the train station.)
Once at the Train Station the challenge was to find track 28 ...1-23 were marked everywhere --- we had to locate a lift (acensore) and then locate the signs for the track we needed. Apparently these tracks are for local destinations and therefore not as well marked as the first 23 tracks --- since local people generally know where they are going! Matt was especially good help in locating the sign and then booking it to the location. He is a delightful young man with a bright mind and a rye sense of humor!
Once we found out where to go it was a long walk and we missed the 11:40 train by 1 minute. Then we sat for a long time on the train waiting to leave. Italian trains are filthy --- they smell of feces and urine and look as though no one cleans them much. Kind of like a dirty greyhound bus.
We waited until the time passed for the train to leave. We figured when it didn't leave that perhaps there were not enough people on the train ---- Then the next time for leaving arrived and it seemed that the train was having difficulty. Finally the train started -- but at one point we stopped and suddenly everyone started to complain and get off the train...We surmised that the train had broken down --- and followed people to the train on the next platform...but had to run along car after car --- because that train already had many people on the train. We finally got on and found seats --- Ultimately we arrived at the port only to learn that there was no lift for Kathy-- She had to climb down about 25 stairs and then climb up another 25 to get to the street where a taxi awaited. Unfortunately --- The irony is that Italians dress beautifully and it pained me to see them put those fine clothes in contact with such dirt!! The trains have a design element that is perhaps "post-modern" -- but all that is ruined by the dirt and stench!
The train seemed to have trouble getting going --- so we were relieved when it finally left the station about 15 minutes later than the second train time that we waited through. It would give us time to get to the port --- but suddenly at one of the stops the train failed all together. People began to leave muttering --- of course in languages we did not understand! I wondered if this is what it felt like on Pentecost! After all Sunday was Pentecost!!! Luckily there was a young woman who spoke a little English who told us to transfer our bags to a train directly across the platform (that was a real blessing---since if it had been on another platform we would have had the additional difficulty of either finding a lift or in helping Kathy try to get down and up the stairs before the train left!!! The conductor indicated to Kathy (we thought) that the train across the platform was the one as well --- and it it said Pisa was it's destination --- and Kathy had a map which indicated that it would pass through the port of Civitiavechia on the way --- so we were somewhat confident that we were on the right train --- but then one can never be sure in these circumstances and so --- we were worried. Ironically no one came through to check our tickets whom we could then have asked if we were on the right train!
When we arrived at the port -- we discovered that there was no lift and not path across the tracks --- Kathy had to walk down 25 stairs and up another 25 to get to the station. Fortunately there were some Americans on the train who were headed for the same cruise and helped Matt get the bags down and up the stairs. He is going to be in great shape when he gets home. There was a bus to the ship --- which probably would have been easier for her to board --- but it was a 4 block walk to get there and she was worried that we might miss it --- so we took a taxi.
The taxi didn't have a stool and it was too high for Kathy to climb up into --- so Matt had to push as Kathy pulled and finally got up.....and in short order we were at the check in point --- They put us through the same kind of routine you go through when you board a plane -- they took our passports and got us on board. Kathy and I are in cabin 3581 --- Matt is in 6617 --- There was confusion about this -- because I am actually in Matt's room --- seems that Until you are 24 you have to have an adult in the cabin ---- Ultimately we got set up --- and went to dinner --- which was excellent.
After dinner we stopped at the desk to pick up our tickets for the tours in the morning, but they did not have any for us and thus began a traumatic evening of contingency planning which might have included leaving the ship and planning our own tours.....Kathy was really frustrated and tired after a day of unexpected problems so this wasn't a good thing to happen at the end of what was otherwise ULTIMATELY a very tiring but successful day.
Unlocking the door was a challenge --- we actually had to have the desk person come and help us. The door knobs do not turn at all, and the doors are metal. There is a second click in the lock that is the point at which one can enter. The windows opened onto a courtyard where we could see many apartment homes --- there were lemon, and other citrus trees on balconies and many flowers. The scent of star jasmine is almost overpowering. When we arrived we found that the hotel would open the entrance for deliveries so that Kathy didn't have to climb the stairs....Huge wrought-iron gates swung open and we entered a long narrow drive to the back of the hotel.
After a good night's sleep we headed out to the Vatican. The rain was drenching ---the crowd was cued up to enter and at 9:00 a.m. they opened the doors. The guards were very good about helping us get through all the barriers. As we head down the ramp to the crypt where the popes are buried --- it was truly treacherous. My sandals did not provide good traction and I found myself slipping along trying not to fall as Matt pushed Kathy in the chair. There were no rugs to help -- and no signs warning people either. The rounded cobblestones were also not only uneven -- but slick as well!
The crowds must be mostly Catholic since they were reverently quiet. An ancient nun was giving instructions on how to show respect as we entered. No one was permitted to take photos in the crypt. We made our way to the Basilica to the Pi eta and around the entire church! It is so overwhelmingly large and the marble and statuary command our attention. Unfortunately we were under time constraints and rushed through. Still, this time I tried to photograph different parts of the church than when I was here before... There were a number of side chapels with mass being said....but this may relate to a holiday which was being celebrated on June 1st. HOWEVER we could not find what holiday it was. Once we exited the Vatican it was pouring rain --- we walked along the cobblestone which was slick with water again.....until we found a taxi to take us back to Hotel delle Vittorie Piazza Mazzini.
( -- to pick up our luggage and head for the train station.)
Once at the Train Station the challenge was to find track 28 ...1-23 were marked everywhere --- we had to locate a lift (acensore) and then locate the signs for the track we needed. Apparently these tracks are for local destinations and therefore not as well marked as the first 23 tracks --- since local people generally know where they are going! Matt was especially good help in locating the sign and then booking it to the location. He is a delightful young man with a bright mind and a rye sense of humor!
Once we found out where to go it was a long walk and we missed the 11:40 train by 1 minute. Then we sat for a long time on the train waiting to leave. Italian trains are filthy --- they smell of feces and urine and look as though no one cleans them much. Kind of like a dirty greyhound bus.
We waited until the time passed for the train to leave. We figured when it didn't leave that perhaps there were not enough people on the train ---- Then the next time for leaving arrived and it seemed that the train was having difficulty. Finally the train started -- but at one point we stopped and suddenly everyone started to complain and get off the train...We surmised that the train had broken down --- and followed people to the train on the next platform...but had to run along car after car --- because that train already had many people on the train. We finally got on and found seats --- Ultimately we arrived at the port only to learn that there was no lift for Kathy-- She had to climb down about 25 stairs and then climb up another 25 to get to the street where a taxi awaited. Unfortunately --- The irony is that Italians dress beautifully and it pained me to see them put those fine clothes in contact with such dirt!! The trains have a design element that is perhaps "post-modern" -- but all that is ruined by the dirt and stench!
The train seemed to have trouble getting going --- so we were relieved when it finally left the station about 15 minutes later than the second train time that we waited through. It would give us time to get to the port --- but suddenly at one of the stops the train failed all together. People began to leave muttering --- of course in languages we did not understand! I wondered if this is what it felt like on Pentecost! After all Sunday was Pentecost!!! Luckily there was a young woman who spoke a little English who told us to transfer our bags to a train directly across the platform (that was a real blessing---since if it had been on another platform we would have had the additional difficulty of either finding a lift or in helping Kathy try to get down and up the stairs before the train left!!! The conductor indicated to Kathy (we thought) that the train across the platform was the one as well --- and it it said Pisa was it's destination --- and Kathy had a map which indicated that it would pass through the port of Civitiavechia on the way --- so we were somewhat confident that we were on the right train --- but then one can never be sure in these circumstances and so --- we were worried. Ironically no one came through to check our tickets whom we could then have asked if we were on the right train!
When we arrived at the port -- we discovered that there was no lift and not path across the tracks --- Kathy had to walk down 25 stairs and up another 25 to get to the station. Fortunately there were some Americans on the train who were headed for the same cruise and helped Matt get the bags down and up the stairs. He is going to be in great shape when he gets home. There was a bus to the ship --- which probably would have been easier for her to board --- but it was a 4 block walk to get there and she was worried that we might miss it --- so we took a taxi.
The taxi didn't have a stool and it was too high for Kathy to climb up into --- so Matt had to push as Kathy pulled and finally got up.....and in short order we were at the check in point --- They put us through the same kind of routine you go through when you board a plane -- they took our passports and got us on board. Kathy and I are in cabin 3581 --- Matt is in 6617 --- There was confusion about this -- because I am actually in Matt's room --- seems that Until you are 24 you have to have an adult in the cabin ---- Ultimately we got set up --- and went to dinner --- which was excellent.
After dinner we stopped at the desk to pick up our tickets for the tours in the morning, but they did not have any for us and thus began a traumatic evening of contingency planning which might have included leaving the ship and planning our own tours.....Kathy was really frustrated and tired after a day of unexpected problems so this wasn't a good thing to happen at the end of what was otherwise ULTIMATELY a very tiring but successful day.
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